LED Swap & Neutral Indicator Bulb - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-12-2017, 01:05 PM Thread Starter
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Question LED Swap & Neutral Indicator Bulb

Getting ready to do a full led swap and like a good newbie, I've thoroughly searched the forum for answers before posting. Two guys (BRET H & qweesy) have reported a problem with the Neutral Indicator using a led...

"when you have it in any gear the LED bulb goes out as normal ....but when you release the clutch lever completely in ANY gear, the Neutral LED Bulb comes back on at 1/4 to 1/2 power....VERY WEIRD!......it's super annoying"

So, anyone out there swapped a LED in for the Neutral Indicator and working 100% fine? Appreciate the feedback!

1993 Vulcan 750 "T'Pol"

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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-12-2017, 04:03 PM
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here's a good read https://www.vn750.com/forum#/topics/65018 kc2dgq would know more on this subject

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-12-2017, 04:38 PM Thread Starter
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Appreciate the tip Doc, read that thread prior to posting. I did an exhaustive search of the forums and can say with confidence no one has spoken and claimed to have swapped all dash bulbs to led and it works for them 100% (no difference in function vs halogen). Surely BRET H & qweesy are not the only members to have swapped all their indicator bulbs to led's. Just looking (hoping) someone here has managed to do it and it works for them "quirk" free.

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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-13-2017, 08:36 AM
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I have swapped all of mine to led.. and currently, my neutral stays on all the time. I *HAVE* had it go out while riding, so I believe I am gonna be chasing a wire grounding issue.


as a side note, my headlight warning (the white one) needs to have an incandescent in it to work properly. the circuit passes a small amount of current thru it all the time, only passing full current if the RLU detects failure in the headlight bulb.

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-14-2017, 04:08 PM Thread Starter
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From my research, it seems the dim issue is either a ground or more likely, a back-feed from somewhere (by factory design) as it's not enough current to light up a halogen bulb on it's own but just enough to dimly light low current led bulbs when neutral is not engaged. Provided my back-feed assumption is correct, anyone knowledgeable with electrical care to explain how you might go about fixing it?

1993 Vulcan 750 "T'Pol"

Cobra Full Exhaust (Single Sided)
M/F AGM Battery
NGK Iridium Plugs
Shinko 777 Tires
Sunpie 7" LED Projector Headlight / KZ750-B 76-79 Bucket & Trim
Full LED Bulb Conversion
Mustang Wide Regal Seat
Aftermarket Grips & Mirror's
Full Chrome Tach / Speedometer
Mobil 1 75-90 Synthetic Gear Oil
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-12-2018, 02:01 AM
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Well, I'll give reviving a dead thread a try. I did the dash led swap and now I'm in the same boat with a dim neutral unless the clutch is in. It's definitely brighter when it's actually in neutral. Has anyone found a fix for this?
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-12-2018, 03:53 AM
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Holy crap, this is a crazy one.

Short story:
Do the 2-wire mod.
After the 2-wire mod, pull the green wire out of the connector near the clutch lever (it transitions to black-red here) and cap it. There's another 3-wire connector where that wire could be easily disconnected (it transitions from black/red back to green)... maybe under the neck cover? under the tank? Anyone know?

Long story:
The lockout and interlock circuits both use the neutral and lockout switch in their logic, and the overlap is allowing the lockout switch at the clutch lever to backfeed the neutral light through the IC box's ground! Pretty sure the current is going from brown, through the neutral LED, into the lockout switch on green, out of the lockout switch on yellow/green (only when clutch lever is released), into the fusebox on pin 12, back out the fusebox on pin 11, and attaches to the mystery red/white wire on pin 2 of the IC box, which PROBABLY connects to ground after passing through some resistors and transistors before dumping to ground on pin 6.

The lockout circuit is designed to allow the IC box to find ground if the clutch lever is pulled (dumps straight to ground, no feedback into neutral light territory) OR if the clutch lever is released BUT THE TRANSMISSION IS IN NEUTRAL. When the clutch lever is released, the clutch circuit and the neutral switch circuit are connected, and the lockout circuit (current from IC box pin ) finds its ground via the neutral switch. This fallback from the clutch lever to the neutral switch is where the two circuits have some bleedover, even though the bleed is coming from the LED, not the IC box.

Just pulling the green wire out of the connector at the clutch lever on a stock bike would stop the feedback, but would mean you would always have to be in neutral when starting the bike because you will be telling the lockout circuit that the clutch is always engaged. Performing the 2-wire mod disables the whole check, so the starter no longer cares if the clutch lever or neutral switch are open or closed.

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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-12-2018, 05:19 PM
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you could also just add a diode on the wires leading to the panel. whether the power or ground would need some experimentation, but likely either would work.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-12-2018, 05:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Birga View Post
you could also just add a diode on the wires leading to the panel. whether the power or ground would need some experimentation, but likely either would work.
Yes, adding a diode to the yellow/green wire on pin 12 of the junction box, oriented to allow current to leave the box, would most likely block the feedback without doing the two-wire mod.

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Service Manual Download
Wiring Diagram + annotations * still undergoing revisions, but still more useful than the generic one. Let me know if you find mistakes or think something additional should be added
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-12-2018, 06:45 PM
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I was staring at the wire diagram with some fresh eyes and had some similar theories about feedback voltage. I was thinking about adding a resistor to the light but your suggestion did the trick. I was hoping to avoid the 2 wire mod but it's better than a blinking green light distracting me and taking some of the nanny switches out could keep me from being stranded. Thanks again, this forum is gold!

If I'm feeling spicy I may try the diode but I'm just so pleased to have everything fixed and running I'll probably leave it for a bit.

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Last edited by LasstLos; 04-12-2018 at 06:47 PM.
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