LED light Comparison - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-27-2017, 04:11 PM Thread Starter
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LED light Comparison

So, over the weekend I installed LED flashers, running lights and headlight. I did a far amount of research before I bought the LEDs that I bought. Some of the products had good reviews. Others had mixed. I thought I would share what I found here.

First, LED running lights/flashers
I ended up going with the Custom Dynamics Metric Turn Signal Clusters, for Kawasaki cruisers. They can be found here: Custom Dynamics - Kawasaki LED Turn Signals The clusters come in white, amber or red. They are available in 1156 and 1157. I bought amber 1157 for the front and amber 1156 for the rear. They are almost a simple plug and play. The only problems are that you have to take out the internal reflector and a small retainer clip. The retainer clip has a screw on one side and an alignment nipple on the other. You have to unscrew the screw, pull out the clip and then use a small pair of dikes to cut off the little plastic alignment nipple. Because the clusters rest of the inner rim of the housing, where the rubber gasket lives, you cant get the amber lens to completely re-seat. It is hardly noticeable though. If it really bothers you, i guess you could take that gasket off but then your lights aren't as protected from water. The LED clusters are a lot brighter! video below shows the difference between stock on the right and the LED cluster on the left.


The only problem I have with the clusters is that they pulsate. you can see in the video below. Because the digital video rate and the pulsing rate are what they are, the video really picks up on the pulsating. i dont think it looks as bad in reality as it does on the video. After discussing with mechanics and people on the forum, I think this is because of voltage surges, so experiences will vary. I plan to call Custom Dynamics to see if they have any input.


Second, the headlight
I switched out the factory headlight with the OPT7 LED. It is a plug and play item. I think it works great. maybe a little to great. The only issue with the light is that it uses top and bottom reflectors for both low and high beams. The light does come with an item called a Flux Capacitor that is needed to keep the built-in cooling fan for the light running. So now I have a Flux Capacitor on my bike.... next stop, 88 miles per hour! below are pictures of the factory and OPT7 low beams.

factory


OPT7


Finally, brake lights.
So I did a lot of looking in to LED lights for the back. I wanted to be much more visible and for the braking lights to really be a warning. Below are pictures of running lights and the brake lights for the factory lamps, a set of red colored plug and play lamps from superbrightleds.com, which you can find here: https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...#/tab/Overview and finally generic 1.8" red clusters from Custom Dynamics, which you can find here: Motorcycle LED Light Bulbs

Factory



Super Bright LEDs



Custom Dynamics



As you can see, both the LED lamps and the Clusters are much brighter than the factory lamps. The LED lamps from SuperBrightLEDs.com are very easy plug and play items. I might stick with these since they are so easy and they are clearly brighter than factory. The clusters however are easily the brightest! The running light is noticeably brighter and the brake light is so bright that it blows out the camera as soon as I pulled back on the lever. the problem I have with these is that I will have to make some kind of custom mounting plate that will sit inside the brake lens. It would not be that big a deal and I could actually get it cut out of aluminum on a CNC for free, but when the LED lamps are so easy to use, I'm not sure i want to bother.

Hope this helps someone. If you have questions, let me know. If you have a different option about the flashers pulsating and/or how to fix it, please let me know.

Drew
'03 VN750 a little over 4300 miles
Spline lube
F&S Rear blinker relocation
F&S Luggage rack
Saddlebags
F&S Extended backrest
Mustang seat
F&S Engine guard
Plexifairing 3 windshield
KM style dash
LED everything + additional brake lights &
LED plate bolts



Last edited by Drew M.; 02-27-2017 at 04:27 PM.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-27-2017, 04:43 PM
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I've had some Custom Dynamics LEDs for a number of years now but I don't remember the specifics on what they're called. I haven't noticed any fluctuation on mine. I'm very happy with the results as the bike is much more noticeable than when it was stock. I have not replaced the factory headlight. Its bright enough for daylight running and I don't get it out much after dark at all. Wouldn't switching everything to LEDs play havoc with the R&R later on? Congratulations on your results!

TOC MCCTs
Saddlebags, hard mounted
Fork mounted tool bag (now hard mounted)
Relocated rear turn signals
LED turn signals, brake lights and running lights
LED license plate frame
Engine Guard and Highway pegs
National Cycles Low Boy Heavy Duty windshield
Home made lowers (nice)
Custom seat (made by a local guy)
Iridium plugs (DPR7EIX-9)
Shenko 230 Tour Master tires at 11,123 miles
Splines lubed at 11,123 miles
Luggage rack
Light bar with LED lights
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-27-2017, 05:04 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris and Shim View Post
Wouldn't switching everything to LEDs play havoc with the R&R later on?
Yea, that's kind of true, round-aboutly. The LEDs themselves dont affect the R/R at all. But because the LEDs use less power the R/R has to get rid of all the extra power that the lights aren't using anymore. The R/R gets rid of extra power to converting it heat, so if you just switched over everything to LED then you would probably burn out our R/R faster.

However, I am converting everything to LED because I am adding a light bar on the front that is 1.5amps. I am adding a 2.1amp x's 2port USB charging port and accent lights (ground effects) which are about 3 amps. I wont be using all of them all the time, but I have a voltmeter to keep an eye on it all.

and thank you! I am very happy. I like being not run over!!!

Drew
'03 VN750 a little over 4300 miles
Spline lube
F&S Rear blinker relocation
F&S Luggage rack
Saddlebags
F&S Extended backrest
Mustang seat
F&S Engine guard
Plexifairing 3 windshield
KM style dash
LED everything + additional brake lights &
LED plate bolts


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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-01-2017, 04:38 PM
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Now that I think about it maybe mine do fluctuate like yours does. It may be a day or two before I can crank mine and WATCH what happens. You mentioned about adding a light bar. I just purchased one from "eusjma" but I'm not sure when I'll get around to getting the lights for it and the installation completed. I may be getting back with you about your selection of lights.

TOC MCCTs
Saddlebags, hard mounted
Fork mounted tool bag (now hard mounted)
Relocated rear turn signals
LED turn signals, brake lights and running lights
LED license plate frame
Engine Guard and Highway pegs
National Cycles Low Boy Heavy Duty windshield
Home made lowers (nice)
Custom seat (made by a local guy)
Iridium plugs (DPR7EIX-9)
Shenko 230 Tour Master tires at 11,123 miles
Splines lubed at 11,123 miles
Luggage rack
Light bar with LED lights
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-01-2017, 06:40 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris and Shim View Post
Now that I think about it maybe mine do fluctuate like yours does. It may be a day or two before I can crank mine and WATCH what happens. You mentioned about adding a light bar. I just purchased one from "eusjma" but I'm not sure when I'll get around to getting the lights for it and the installation completed. I may be getting back with you about your selection of lights.
yea, no worries. I saw the post were you snagged that light bar from eusjma about 10 seconds after it was posted. It is the same bar i have. KC made me one earlier this winter. I think there is a post around here somewhere that says what I bought and were I bought it. I got the same shells that KC got from etrailer.com or some place like that. I dont remember were i got the LED lamps. I will look for that post and link it here.


EDIT: Here is a link to the pods: https://www.etrailer.com/Off-Road-Li...s/QH-87CD.html

Here is the link to the thread where I posted my LED replacement lamps. I believe my posts are #33 & #34: https://www.vn750.com/forum/29-equipm...rsion-2-a.html

Here is another forum thread about the bars: https://www.vn750.com/forum/17-sell-s...bar-mount.html

Drew
'03 VN750 a little over 4300 miles
Spline lube
F&S Rear blinker relocation
F&S Luggage rack
Saddlebags
F&S Extended backrest
Mustang seat
F&S Engine guard
Plexifairing 3 windshield
KM style dash
LED everything + additional brake lights &
LED plate bolts



Last edited by Drew M.; 03-01-2017 at 07:09 PM.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-05-2017, 09:00 PM
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I started mine up today and thought about checking the lights. When revved up a bit, as in while its on choke, they do not fluctuate at all. But at idle they do the same as yours. It barely noticeable and nothing I'm going to worry about. It'll be later this year before I get the lights for the bar.

TOC MCCTs
Saddlebags, hard mounted
Fork mounted tool bag (now hard mounted)
Relocated rear turn signals
LED turn signals, brake lights and running lights
LED license plate frame
Engine Guard and Highway pegs
National Cycles Low Boy Heavy Duty windshield
Home made lowers (nice)
Custom seat (made by a local guy)
Iridium plugs (DPR7EIX-9)
Shenko 230 Tour Master tires at 11,123 miles
Splines lubed at 11,123 miles
Luggage rack
Light bar with LED lights
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-11-2018, 12:28 AM
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I had a similar issue on my Diesel Honda Rebel.
Adding a 10,000uF capacitor smoothed out voltage ripple that was causing my LED lights to pulsate and the lithium battery's internal controller to shutoff.

1989 VN750
Highway blaster

2006 Honda Rebel Diesel
100mpg, low and slow

1982 Mercedes 300D
Modified engine, 4-speed manual
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-11-2018, 09:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DenverDiesel View Post
Diesel Honda Rebel.
holy CRAP please post pics that sounds badass!

Earshave+Rejet (38/135) NGK Iridiums MCCT Conversion Slipstreamer S03 Windshield Custom Extended Backrest Custom Highway Bars MOSFET R/R LED Underglow Volt+USB In-Dash Two-Wire & Blue-Wire Mod Satin Black Engine Paint Dampers Parts - Jets: Main=99101-393(#132 stock)/Pilot=n424-22 Pilot(#38 stock)
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-13-2018, 12:31 AM
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Its a 2006 Honda Rebel that I converted to diesel using a Kubota OC95 and CVT transmission.
Top speed is geared for 60mph but its happiest 45-50mph where it returns over 100mpg.

It makes a fantastic commuter and city bike but it's too slow for highway use or long distance riding. Thats why I picked up my Vulcan. Still, I have put 6k miles on it the last two years.
Yes, it's pull start. A battery to crank over 24.5:1 compression would make a Harley's look like a AA battery.
Because it has only a 5amp stator, every light is LED and maximum power draw is less than 4 amps. If it weren't for needing the glowplug to cold start, I wouldn't use a battery at all.

1/4 mile is in the 26 [email protected] range. 0-60mph is about 1 minute.
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1989 VN750
Highway blaster

2006 Honda Rebel Diesel
100mpg, low and slow

1982 Mercedes 300D
Modified engine, 4-speed manual

Last edited by DenverDiesel; 01-13-2018 at 12:39 AM.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-13-2018, 01:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DenverDiesel View Post
Its a 2006 Honda Rebel that I converted to diesel using a Kubota OC95 and CVT transmission.
Top speed is geared for 60mph but its happiest 45-50mph where it returns over 100mpg.

It makes a fantastic commuter and city bike but it's too slow for highway use or long distance riding. Thats why I picked up my Vulcan. Still, I have put 6k miles on it the last two years.
Yes, it's pull start. A battery to crank over 24.5:1 compression would make a Harley's look like a AA battery.
Because it has only a 5amp stator, every light is LED and maximum power draw is less than 4 amps. If it weren't for needing the glowplug to cold start, I wouldn't use a battery at all.

1/4 mile is in the 26 [email protected] range. 0-60mph is about 1 minute.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v =m6BIil9hvto
Pretty awesome engine swap. Scooter mpg in a better package.

Don't see why it couldn't be geared for highway speeds, the diesel should have the torque, it just wouldn't be quick to come up to speed.

Almost missed the pics under the video. That's the go-to vehicle next time gas hits $5/gal!

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