Stator replacement - how to - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-09-2008, 08:40 AM Thread Starter
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Stator replacement - how to

I'm a new member with a bad stator. I was wondering if there has ever been posted on this forum a step-by-step guide on replacing the stator. I have a Kawasaki shop manual and am fairly mechanical but am not sure I want to tackle this. Have read that the engine can be moved to the right without removal to gain enough space to get stator cover off but what has to be done to disconnect the driveshaft? Any pitfalls or common mistakes to avoid? Any special tools needed? Any shortcuts? Important steps and processes to ensure proper reassembly?

Thanks in advance.

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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-09-2008, 10:02 AM
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I did a stator last month. I just started taking things apart and it took me about 3 hr to do this tear down. When you take a bolt out, if possible put it back in if possible. When it was apart I took the airfliter off and now have some pod filters. Was easier than trying to put the hold airfilter mess back in the frame. The hardest part for me was getting the engine back into the frame. Took about an hour getting it in for all of the bolts to go in correctly. All in all it took me about 6 hrs to getting it put back together and running. Taking the drive shaft out and putting it back in was not a problem. Put in an aftermarket stator in, much cheaper than the Kaw unit.
I have heard that you can do the stator by moving the engine over, but did not try it.
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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-09-2008, 10:27 AM
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Yes the best way to replace the Stator is doing whats called an engine tilt. By doing this you wont have to disconnect the carbs (Which is a PITA in itself) or throttle cables. You will have to remove the Bevel gear case in order to disconnect the drive shaft. Dont take any short cuts when replacing the gaskets (even the O-ring on the stator cover) Please dont ask me how I know this Being that you have some mechanical skills its a very doable job, just take your time and plan a weekend of it. As Tprender stated it will be hard getting the engine to realign so I used two floor jacks to lower and raise the front and back of the motor till she slid in. Good luck and be sure to ask any further questions during the process if they should arise.

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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-09-2008, 12:25 PM
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-09-2008, 09:15 PM Thread Starter
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Yes the best way to replace the Stator is doing whats called an engine tilt. By doing this you wont have to disconnect the carbs (Which is a PITA in itself) or throttle cables. You will have to remove the Bevel gear case in order to disconnect the drive shaft. Dont take any short cuts when replacing the gaskets (even the O-ring on the stator cover) Please dont ask me how I know this Being that you have some mechanical skills its a very doable job, just take your time and plan a weekend of it. As Tprender stated it will be hard getting the engine to realign so I used two floor jacks to lower and raise the front and back of the motor till she slid in. Good luck and be sure to ask any further questions during the process if they should arise.

Peace
If I do this myself, I plan on using the "engine tilt" method but what about the bevel gear case removal? Is that just a matter of removing the case cover? Pictures I've seen are not clear. Would you say the process for removal of inner parts is self evident once the cover is off? Is this step done before undoing the engine mounts?

Thanks

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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-09-2008, 10:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bruko View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by greyhound View Post
If I do this myself, I plan on using the "engine tilt" method but what about the bevel gear case removal? Is that just a matter of removing the case cover? Pictures I've seen are not clear. Would you say the process for removal of inner parts is self evident once the cover is off? Is this step done before undoing the engine mounts?

Thanks
Did you miss this post by bruko? There is an excellent series of pics of a teardown and stator replacement. Read it and study the pics. It should answer most of your questions, but come back and ask away if something is still not clear. I`ve not done this procedure myself, but there are plenty here who have. Someone will be able to help. Good luck.

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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-10-2008, 12:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greyhound View Post
If I do this myself, I plan on using the "engine tilt" method but what about the bevel gear case removal? Is that just a matter of removing the case cover? Pictures I've seen are not clear. Would you say the process for removal of inner parts is self evident once the cover is off? Is this step done before undoing the engine mounts?

Thanks
Its just a matter of removing the bolts (10 or 12 of them, dont remember exactlly) on the Bevel gear case. There will be a part that slides onto the shaft inside, I dont know what the exact name is called but if you know boats it looks like a clutch dog from an outdrive. You wont need to remove any additional parts from the case no (besides that clutch dog thingy) Yes, remove the gear case before you take out the motor mounts. With the ujoints of the drive shaft still in place you will be able to wiggle it off the shafts splines easily enough. Keep us posted.

Peace

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Last edited by wkrizan; 11-10-2008 at 12:15 PM.
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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-10-2008, 12:41 PM
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Wish I could offer suggestions, but I took the easy way out and had a shop do mine.
Surprisingly though, it only put me back $380 + parts


Good luck to ya!


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Aim for the apex."

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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-10-2008, 12:49 PM
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I left the bevel gear in place. A little tricky to manuver, but worked. It probably would be quicker to remove it. But it can be tricky in it's self to put on. Not bad thought. Deffinatly doable. You might think about some ratcheting tie downs for the third arm I presume you don't have (third arm that is). It can help you slowly position & hold the motor in place. Worked wonders for me. Although I can't help but to think most of my issue was a non paved garage floor. Hard to roll the jack around!

Last edited by kanuck69; 11-10-2008 at 04:21 PM.
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-10-2008, 01:37 PM
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