Stator Problems--Solved! - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-05-2008, 10:13 PM Thread Starter
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Stator Problems--Solved!

Thought I had lost you guys!
Glad to see everybody back again!
Thought all had gone with Gypsy. (Where is she???)

In the meantime, I undertook to resolve my stator issues once and for all. (I was reading all kinds of stator problems on the old site--and working everything anybody suggested.) Nothing worked--or if it worked, it didn't stay working.

So what did I do?

First: I took the old, burnt stator apart.
What killed it?

Kawasaki (damn the bottom feeders!) had put one of the early edition stators into one of the last VN750s they sent out (2004 model). The onliest problem was that they had clamped--NOT clamped AND soldered--they had only clamped the single-strand stator winding wires to multi-strand wires to run to the RR unit. Clamping without soldering creates heat--just like my wife's wall plug on her iron gets hot.

Then, adding stupidity to foolishness, they had double-wrapped (for insulation) all of these joints into one solid, compact bundle. All of this to be cooled by hot oil. And the oil gets hotter when the fan comes on. And the stator gets hotter when the fan comes on.

HEAT BUILDUP!
In the red zone!
The heat buildup burnt off the clear insulation layer on the stator winding wire and it shorted out. Happened right there at the connectors and went back just far enough to short on the stator base.

I found that more recent versions of the 750 stator fixed the problem by clamping AND SOLDERING, and then by staggering the connectors so they were not piled up into one tight hot bundle. But I guess they had one of the old units sitting in their warehouse. My luck, I got that one on my new bike. (I wish I had a patent for Murphy's Law; I'd be rich!!!)

I paid Kawasaki through the nose and put one of those newer units into my bike (after trying an Electrosport stator and eventually having it fail too). So far, after some 20,000 miles, mostly in blazing heat...
But wait!

Two more fixes were necessary.

RR unit got re-wired with heavier gauge wire and moved up to the front of the bike.
My apologies to anybody who mistakes my VN750 for a Harley Davidson unit!!! But they are the leaders in creating hot, burnt-up engines, so I guess they have learned a little bit that we can use. Thus my RR unit now sits up front--like the Harley boys'.

The other change was to get that engine cooled without depending upon the fan. (It still comes on at long, red traffic lights in mid-summer.)

First step was to strip the plastic Model T grill and replace it with some cowling (home-built) to ram air INTO the radiator instead of deflecting it down off the radiator.
(Yeah! The Model T grill looks cool, but it's not; it's hot!
Sorry about the pun.)

Next step was to install an oil cooler. (Sorry about the H.D. emulation again!) I had to have an adaptor built ($200) to adapt the JAG adaptor from SAE threads to metric. I screwed on a much larger oil filter (that's a plus too) and routed it to a JAG cooler.

The bike climbs the long steep grade from Sacramento to Auburn at 65 mph in 100 degrees and runs at normal temp. The fan never comes on.

The voltmeter I installed shows a good solid charge, well modulated, at all times. 37,000 miles and I am really enjoying this VN750--finally. A good bike Kawasaki built--if only they hadn't tried to screw us on the trivia!

Now I need to find a good front fender to keep crud off my oil filter.

Last edited by vn750angky; 11-11-2008 at 08:40 PM. Reason: Add a picture
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-06-2008, 01:45 AM
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Sweet, sounds like some good work. Any pics of your radiator shroud?
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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-06-2008, 10:19 AM
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Yes we must SEE. Did you take pictures of the stator wiring?

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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-06-2008, 07:08 PM
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Angky the answer for the better fender you could try the old trick of a home made mud flap, a lot cheaper than a new fender. Give it a try, just may work. Would like to see some pictures, other's may want to try what you did.

2004 25,500 miles
Led tail light enhancement
Homemade floor boards
Headlight modulator
Extra heat sink on R+R
R+R relocation
Homemade driver's backrest
Fused Stator
Mcct conversion-cost 4.50
Ride-on in tires
crash bar with home made hyway pegs
iridium plugs
home made fork wind deflectors
coil pickups adjusted.
Kenda kruz tires 110/90 170/80

Last edited by weh44att; 11-06-2008 at 07:08 PM. Reason: spelling
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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-06-2008, 10:03 PM Thread Starter
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I'll try to get some pictures on this computer.
That might be harder (for me) than rebuilding a stator!!!

What's the difference between a bike and a computer?
Both are a pain in the butt.
But it takes 200 miles for one,
The other one is immediate!
I'll try to get some shots into this computer--if it's raining.
If it's sunny, I'll be riding.
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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-06-2008, 10:06 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weh44att View Post
Angky the answer for the better fender you could try the old trick of a home made mud flap, a lot cheaper than a new fender. Give it a try, just may work. Would like to see some pictures, other's may want to try what you did.
Thanks for the mud flap idea.
You use iridium plugs?
I almost put them on my bike, but didn't know what it might cause.
Have you found any difficulties?
I don't want to spend over $20 apiece if it doesn't help any.
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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-06-2008, 10:08 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by antiq View Post
Yes we must SEE. Did you take pictures of the stator wiring?
No, I got pics of the windings so I would know how to re-wind. But I didn't think to photo the burnt ends or the stacked-up couplings.
And then I just bought a new one anyway since my old 10-thumb hands couldn't get the stator wound anyway.
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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-06-2008, 10:11 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 750Doug View Post
Sweet, sounds like some good work. Any pics of your radiator shroud?
I'll try to get some for you.
It's not as pretty as the Model T look. But it sure works.
And it's still in the formative stages. I'm still trying to figure out a good design that can close in cold weather.
But I'll get some shots of what I have so far.
(If I can figure out how to do the pictures on the computer.)
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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-07-2008, 12:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vn750angky View Post
No, I got pics of the windings so I would know how to re-wind. But I didn't think to photo the burnt ends or the stacked-up couplings.
And then I just bought a new one anyway since my old 10-thumb hands couldn't get the stator wound anyway.
Mine is an 85 bike. More than likely it has the old style stator. I'm seriously considering if it's good to remove it and solder the connections and seperate them with heat shrink tubing as extra insulation. You having seen both types would know if this is feasible.

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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-07-2008, 12:31 AM
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I love the actual hands on gumshoeing, and your explanation. I can relate to that. I have an '86, and '93, so do you know what year they decided to begin soldering? I don't have any charging problems yet, but ... I run up in northern Cali (but I like to say Oregon cause I'm 40 minutes south of the border; the real Nor Cal), so I run in cooler temps (60 F average). I'm a tinsmith and have thought a lot about building a new radiator cowl like the one you described cause I like to cruise, and most of the cruising roads around here are 30 MPH average which heats it up a bit. Did you add the cowl before the oil cooler, and did you notice a difference? I'm trying to find a way to average the temp between highway, and cruise. I've even been considering using furnace hi-temp switches to activate motorized dampers, but that's a pipe dream so far.

Gotta commend you again on your sleuthing.

The Hos '93 VN750
New fork seals, tires next
Thunderbolt '81 KZ1000 M1
Down from cam chain tensioner malfunction

My window is always down when I drive because I'd rather be on my motorcycle.
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