Back to stator issues - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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Where does this wire go?
Includes Electrical mods, Lights, Stator,
Rectifier, Diagrams, etc

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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-20-2016, 10:08 PM Thread Starter
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Back to stator issues

After a futile attempt at a stator and R/R replacement and rebuild I went through last Summer, I decided to take the bike to my personal mechanic to have the continuous issue diagnosed. He said all my spaded connection from stator to rectifier, as well as all grounded spade connections needed to be soldered, because apparently the new Caltric stator and R/R are already fried from one day of use on faulty connections.

I just received my new MOSFET R/R and now I'm looking for a suitable replacement for my stator yet again. From what I've gained, the best solution is a TPE rewind, but that he's actually not in business anymore. So I'm looking for a new OEM replacement, but can't seem to source one. Anyone know where I can find one on short notice? I have 10 days to get this solved, because I go to bootcamp December 6th and need the bike gone before then.

2006 VN750A
Purchased in August 2015 with 8,500 miles, currently at around 15,000 miles
Once earshaved, but recently reinstalled a modified surgetank and airboxes(like the sound and look better)
K&N air filters
Jetted
Coastered
Vance & Hines Cruizer Pipes
Tuxedo mod
Blue-wire, Two-wire, and sidestand-switch modded
NGK Iridium plugs
New lithium constantly hooked up to a battery tender
Possibly dead, but brand new Caltric stator and R/R
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-21-2016, 02:20 AM
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Your kawasaki dealer will get you an OEM stator the fastest. Online places have to wait to get the part from Kawasaki, then it goes to you. They can probably have it within 3 days or less.

Worth the price now since there's no other option.

1986 Kawasaki Vulcan 750
NGK Iridium Plugs #7803/DPR7EIX-9
Duralast Gold ETX15 AGM Battery
Coastered & Shaved
TOC MCCTs
Metzeler ME880 [110/90-19, 170/80-15]
Balance Dampers Replaced
Tuxedo Mod
Rebuilt Forks w/ Progressive Springs
V&H Cruzers
VN750.com Grill Cover
Meanstreak Seat
Emgo 23-92411 Handlebars
MOSFET FH012AA R/R


1990 Kawasaki Vulcan 750

1998 Honda VFR800 FI

2014 Honda VFR800F

1989 Pontiac Firebird Formula 350
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-21-2016, 06:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DR.BADNEWS View Post
...... I have 10 days to get this solved, because I go to bootcamp December 6th and need the bike gone before then.
Sorry I can't help with the stator problem but if I am reading your post correctly then a sincere "Thank you" for your service to this country. Good luck and stay safe. I am sure many of us would enjoy reading your future updates while you train and then go to your assignments. Don't be a stranger to the forum with or without a VN 750.

and always remember, "Ride until you rot!"
**Really not sure if the Big "C" is back right now
but having to face the fact that this is a lifetime routine
going forward. Five operations done and it still continues.

Tom
Vulcan 2000
New ride: 2009 Victory Vision Arlen Ness Signature Series
4507 miles
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-21-2016, 10:06 PM
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yes thanks for your service

Sent from my LGL34C using Tapatalk

ONE RATS ASS GIVEN PER POST
Support your local FREEBIRDS MC
1986/5 Vn700/750 Frankenfook cross eyed bitch "Mellisa Fayhe"
I am a BIKER and i'm proud.FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY

lowered with progessive 412 10" shocks
rejetted for K/N Pods part#rc 2340
sportster seat

'I didn't lose my mind.i gave it away

BRING BACK WOLFIE."Peace and Carrots"RIP
"And I'm free...as a bird"John Lennon Free as a Bird
"I only carry when I have my pants on"Joe Robinson RIP aka Old Dog
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-30-2016, 01:09 AM Thread Starter
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Went ahead and bought a Rick's Motorsports stator with a 1-year warranty from a local shop. Gonna install that straight to the new Shendengin R/R, and from that to the battery, along with the coil-relay bypass mod. Cutting out the JB and wiring harness entirely, right? No excuses on why I shouldn't be getting voltage this time.
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-30-2016, 06:19 AM
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Some thoughts on connecting the rectifier directly to the battery:

1. Connecting the rectifier output directly to the battery will bypass the 30amp main fuse in the junction box. Best to add an inline fuse between rectifier and battery to prevent potential fireworks if your R/R starts dumping higher than expected voltages.

2. Once you've connected your rectifier to your battery, the current from the rectifier to the rest of the bike will still be going through the junction box: Rectifier to battery terminal, battery terminal to JB pin1, through main fuse, out on JB pin2 to the ignition switch. Voltage must be provided on pin1 is necessary to run the fan (or add your own manual switch or relay outside the JB). You could cut the harness at pin 2 and splice that harness wire into pin 1's wire so the rectifier is directly supplying voltage to the battery, the fan relay, and the ignition. Would need another 30 amp fuse between the battery and the ignition to prevent a short in the harness from dumping the entire capacity of the battery.

3. If you still need the battery connected to the JB in order to run the fan, you might as well just avoid the whole splicing mess and use the JB's main fuse and pin2. Unless your junction box pins are corroded to nothing, a touch with some fine sandpaper will ensure good electrical contact.

Good luck!

1992 US-nonCA * tuxedo mod * r/r relocated

Vulcan slang for newcomers
Service Manual Download
Wiring Diagram + annotations * still undergoing revisions, but still more useful than the generic one. Let me know if you find mistakes or think something additional should be added
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-30-2016, 10:27 AM
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Thorn, you still need power to pin 1 in the JB, for the light systems and gauges. by wiring the R/R strait to the battery but not changing any thing else you are still feeding power to the JB through the stock wiring harness from the bullet connector at the starter solenoid. I would use a 30 AMP Circuit Breaker inline with the power out of R/R to battery instead of a fuse that way you don't loose power completly in the event of a momentary short.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-30-2016, 09:24 PM
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Hey Slim,

I talked myself into a more complicated scenario than Dr.Badnews was suggesting when he said he was bypassing the junction box completely. I thought he wanted the supply to the ignition switch to bypass the JB in addition to the ignition coil bypass mod. (i.e. removing voltage from pin 1, which I was trying to find a possible working solution to with point 2 and recommend against in point 3) In hindsight, this was totally unnecessary.

The white/red wire from the battery to the JB will feed the ignition properly via pin 1 if left alone.

1992 US-nonCA * tuxedo mod * r/r relocated

Vulcan slang for newcomers
Service Manual Download
Wiring Diagram + annotations * still undergoing revisions, but still more useful than the generic one. Let me know if you find mistakes or think something additional should be added
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-30-2016, 11:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thorn View Post
Hey Slim,



The white/red wire from the battery to the JB will feed the ignition properly via pin 1 if left alone.
correct, I bypassed my JB completly, and it was not an easy task... iirc it took me about 2 weeks to complete the task to include drawing the wiring diagram to rewiring the whole bike... the ignition system was the trickiest part, made simpler by geting rid of the stock ignition control box and using a Ignitech programable module.
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-01-2016, 01:39 PM Thread Starter
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I've already done the 2-wire and blue wire bypasses, and now need to replace the harness wires connected to the R/R because the ground wire coming out of it melted and some wires around it.

I will be installing a 30-amp fuse from the R/R to the battery. Where should I run the new ground wire coming out of the MOSFET R/R, and what all do I have to splice to retain light and fan functions through the JB?
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