Stator Cover Machining - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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Where does this wire go?
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-01-2016, 08:08 AM Thread Starter
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Stator Cover Machining

So today I had a friend machine my stator cover to do the stator plate mod. Doing it this way allows you to use the original gasket. Put it on today and it seems like the inner cover will fit without modification.

We machined the top side 0.046" (the thickness of the plate) with a 1/2" end mill, then removed the center with a 1/8" end mill.


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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-01-2016, 01:13 PM
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Excellent, are you machining a slot for the stator wires to come through or you planning on fishing them through the original hole/grommet ?

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-01-2016, 07:08 PM Thread Starter
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I'm gonna rig up something to use the original hole. Might make a new grommet or 3D print something to make it easier.

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-02-2016, 05:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcinturff View Post
Might make a new grommet or 3D print something to make it easier.
brilliant, I'll be watching this thread with interest, got my own engine out and will be doing the tuxedo mod, like yourself I'm taking the stator housing to a machine shop to have it done, really like the idea of using the existing stator wire hole, as long as it accessible to fish the wires through should I ever have to replace the stator with the motor in the frame.

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-02-2016, 07:28 AM
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I am curious about how one would fish the wires through the existing grommet without removing the side case cover.
The grommet is trapped between the case and the cover. The wires would have to be cut and fished through the grommet one ware per hole(there are 3 holes in the grommet).

Can you even fish them through from the inside with the flywheel installed?
also....the Tux mod stator plate I have does not have the center hole to access the flywheel bolt, which means I would have to remove the stator in order to turn the engine by hand(to align the timing marks).
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-02-2016, 12:38 PM Thread Starter
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Yes, it is irritating not having access to the crank bolt. You are correct about the captured grommet. I am thinking about modifying it so the grommet only goes in from the top. I could also 3D print a piece that slips in through the outside and has a hole for the 3 sets of wire bundles to go through. Even with these modifications, fishing the wires through would still be challenging.

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Last edited by mcinturff; 10-02-2016 at 12:42 PM.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-05-2016, 06:11 PM
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I would be interested in whatever your new design is...please share when you can.
Take photos and post them!!
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-02-2018, 10:30 AM Thread Starter
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Old thread, but a couple months ago I finally got my charging system working. Turns out what was supposed to be a good stator wasn't. I installed an electrosport stator, which is holding up just fine thanks to the Compufire R/R. They agreed to keep my warranty valid if I needed to modify the pigtail on the stator, so I removed the new pigtail and soldered in the new stator. It's not ideal as the old stator wiring will degrade with time, but it's better than pulling the motor halfway out to get that damn grommet out of it's hole.

The best thing about this modification is you can keep the stock routing of the harness, just fish the wires under the tuxedo plate. I'm rather disappointed in the tolerances of this tuxedo mod kit (especially considering the $$$). I'm almost tempted to create my own in the future. If you are already in the machine shop, have your own spacers made that fit more tightly so the plate doesn't deflect when you tighten it down.

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Last edited by mcinturff; 07-18-2019 at 11:15 AM.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-02-2018, 02:57 PM
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Hi everyone, I've done the stator 3 times now. The first time I did the plate mode and changed the rubber grommet. One of the wires wasn't soldered properly from the factory so I had to take the plate off and solder the wires. I'm just telling this for all of us who are not convinced to do the mode in the first place. Second time "Blanche dumped me and I guess something went bad. This time I cut the wires from the old stator and left the old grommet in place, notched the outer cover and bought some 1/4" thick rubber for the outer cover. The thick rubber gives plenty of room for the plate and the cover to seal with the rubber grommet, no leaks! I'm relieved in knowing the next time I have to change it, I don't have to worry about the grommet and wires. When you pull the cover it's all right there! Easy peasy !!! I was skeptical about notching the outer plate, but I'm here to say I'm glad I did. Also when you change it you get new wires and new grommet. To anyone who is interested I have a sheet of the petroleum grade rubber. Great info Mcinturff I'm sure that machining will work great. I did 99% of your JB fix, great suggestions keep them coming!

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