Stator replaced, 2 R/R's and still not charging - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-10-2008, 06:47 PM Thread Starter
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Stator replaced, 2 R/R's and still not charging

Well I replaced my stator and am getting 30 VAC at idle up too 120+ VAC nearer red line at the three stator leads. I believe that is what I should be getting. My problem is I have tried 2 r/r's and all I get is about 13.5 volts when any RPM is sustained for an amount of time. The battery is at about 12.6 volts when disconnected, and it drops to about that when given throttle, but when held at any RPM it levels out at 13.5. The second R/R was verified working on another bike. I'm thinking that maybe I have bad connections on one or more of the non yellow wires going to the R/R, Does this sound reasonable? How can I verify those three wires are going where they need to be going?

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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-10-2008, 07:27 PM
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I'm definitely not an expert but it sounds like it's working as it should to me.

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-10-2008, 08:03 PM
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I'm definitely not an expert but it sounds like it's working as it should to me.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-10-2008, 09:13 PM
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How old is your battery? Is it an MF or regular? Have you had the battery load tested?

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-10-2008, 09:27 PM
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I think he should be seeing the voltage spike higher than 13.5 - somewhere closer to 14.5v would seem more reasonable to me if the system is going to replenish the battery. ??

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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-10-2008, 09:44 PM
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I think he should be seeing the voltage spike higher than 13.5 - somewhere closer to 14.5v would seem more reasonable to me if the system is going to replenish the battery. ??
Mine only reads 13.7v max. ever sense I replaced my stator and it has yet to give me any issues with starts or kind of charging problem....ummmm dunno?????????

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-11-2008, 08:46 AM
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here is a colored schematic of the charging system to help determine where the yellow wires are supposed to go.

here is a picture of the R/R connector pin colors


I would check all connections in the charging system for good connections, also check the male plug to the R/R for corrosion. Have you relocated the R/R? Most people move it for heat reasons, but there are also issues to its stock location due to battery acid dripping down on it from the batter box, which causes corrosion.

Do you have the TS Proceedures for the charging system?

if not here is the "Clymers" guide to trouble shooting the charging system.


Last edited by slimvulcanrider; 10-11-2008 at 08:58 AM.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-11-2008, 10:35 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slimvulcanrider View Post
here is a colored schematic of the charging system to help determine where the yellow wires are supposed to go.

here is a picture of the R/R connector pin colors

Thanks that exactly what I was looking for.

It's a Brand New mf battery
The R/R is just sitting on the rear fender behind the battery a bit until i can get everything sorted out, then I will finish my bracket and mount it between the side cover and rear wheel.
I had no plug for the R/R I was sent one that I soldered on.

From what I have been told the voltage should raise with RPM's. I get the highest voltage at idle (13.5) or when I keep a constant RPM for a few seconds or more, that could be 1000 rpms, or 4500, it levels at 13.5.
But when accelerating it drops to 12.6. and That is what has me most concerned.

thanks
-ryan
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-11-2008, 10:48 AM
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warm the bike up to normal operating temps, then check your voltage at Idle, 1500 RPMs, 3000 RPMs, and 5000 RPMs. the voltages should keep increasing as the rpms increase... 4000 and 5000 should be around 14.5 volts +- 0.9 volts
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-11-2008, 12:02 PM
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I agree with Slim and Corbin your readings should be more than 13.5. Above 2000 it should be easily in the 14's. May still be a bad connection. Your reading at the stator wires or great. It seems after that you are loosing a good connection. Just a little corrosion can cause this. I had that problem and it causes the wires to heat up because to much power is trying to go through less wire, or the RR gets hotter than normal also.

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