98% Finished with my Stator Mod - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Where does this wire go?
Includes Electrical mods, Lights, Stator,
Rectifier, Diagrams, etc

  • 1 Post By DR.BADNEWS
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post #1 of 2 (permalink) Old 08-08-2016, 09:40 PM Thread Starter
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98% Finished with my Stator Mod

It's been over a month and easily over 30 hours in labor with $300 invested(granted I did set myself back more then a few times, and didn't think this one all the way through with ordering parts). Just waiting on exhaust crush gaskets and shift shaft seal to arrive hopefully this weekend before I oil it up and try to get it running.

Starting the disassembly with removing the seat, then side covers, gas tank, rear foot pegs, exhaust pipes, radiator, coolant reservoir, rear wheel, swing arm, carbs, bottom-right sub-frame, etc... eventually able to dismount the engine with a jack and some bricks and wobble the frame around it to gain the clearance to remove the stator housing, or left-side crankcase cover, without removing the bevel gear case.

I didn't write down any order or look over directions when taking it apart, leaving it up to memory when it came time to reassemble a month later. Luckily I've only ended up with a couple washers gone unused. Unfortunately, however, I had to replace the stator-side inner-case, because my first gone around with milling out the stator mount was a failure on equal part between myself and assistant. We cut along a ring outside the mounts for the outter most cover.

To my surprise, the stator I removed and the connections with it looked undamaged and functional. It also had a plastice coating over the copper wiring unlike the Caltric replacement. I was also expecting some final drive gear damage, because of the jolt and screech I get coming out of first gear; but all the splines along the drive shaft to rear-wheel were sufficiently lubed and in perfect order.

After a $170 replacement crankcase cover(there's none anywhere else on the internet besides bike bandit), the second go-around with hacking up crucial engine components went much smoother I think... I made a clean spacer/mount for the stator out of the old crankcase cover, and milled the outter cover posts and ribs down as evenly as possible to make it fit flush against the inner cover with the mod intact whilst holding the stainless plate firm in place.

I greased up all gears, used blue thread locker on all the small frame/engine components, used a thin layer of gasket sealer between all the gaskets, oil on the o-rings and inner side of grommets, as well as slightly over torqued about everything equally hand tight(super paranoid about that because I had a front wheel vibrate loose and fall off a dirt bike when I was a kid), then double checked everything to spec with torque wrenches. No silicone glue, because that's ghetto.

A previous owner gave it the "ear shave mod," but I actually like the appearance with the air boxes; and since I have to leave my bike outside in the elements(when it's not in the shop), my filters get trashed and wet in the rain. Reinstalling the surge tank without removing the front valve cover was the biggest pain in the rear, but I couldn't risk damaging more gaskets.

While I had the carbs out, I decided to give them a quick look over inside, but couldn't find the floats right away and by the squeaky clean appearance of the aftermarket jets, floats, and diaphragms installed by the previous owner I assumed they'd be clean as well. I found that the carbs were slightly out of even bench sync, so I adjusted that a bit. I'm now looking at idle mixture adjustments since I reinstalled the air boxes(with K&N air filters), but kept the larger jets and Vance and Hines Pipes. I don't know what standard settings are or recommended setting with the mods I have, but I was getting some serious backfire with deceleration before.

All in all, after the final adjustments in fine-tuning, I really hope there isn't leakage of any kind, spiders living in my engine/carbs, missed electrical connections, or future damage to the pick-up coil wires from the tight fit nearly exposed to the flywheel), because this bike was quite the wrestle throughout every stage in the journey and I won't make it again.

I'll be running a Caltric stator and rectifier which I've heard mixed reviews on. We'll see how long it lasts.

Any tips on what I should do before trying to start it up again, or things I may have missed? I've already two-wire and blue wire modded. I'm gonna clean and polish everything(especially the inner exhaust pipes while they're off) real good for now in the down time awaiting the arrival of the final pieces. Also thinking of wrapping the exhaust from manifold to muffler under the heat shield to prevent further corrosion and hopefully reduce a little heat while hushing my obnoxiously loud straight pipes a little. Don't know the ramifications and consequences of that. Considering the coil-wiring and relay mod. Mosfet is an obvious but I don't have the funds for that at the moment. I'm concerned with where to route the stator wires way from the heat and protect them from the elements. I've experienced shorts in the wiring harness before from negligence on torquing down ground wires. And there's a red and a green wire from the harness leading to a cylinder in front of the battery box, as well as a two-pair connection to another cylinder on the right side of the battery box that fits either way. I'm unsure of the correct matches there.

If all this doesn't solve my charging and starting issues, idk what will.
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Last edited by DR.BADNEWS; 08-08-2016 at 09:55 PM.
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post #2 of 2 (permalink) Old 08-09-2016, 05:27 AM
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You really have been busy and done a load of work, I can't offer any further suggestions, but I'm sure the more knowledgeable forum members will offer advice. Good luck with the rest of the build, hopefully you'll be enjoying the open road again real soon.

Man can not live by bread alone... he needs Duct tape & WD40
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