Junction Box Problems - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-23-2016, 09:44 AM Thread Starter
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Junction Box Problems

ok guys and gals been a while sense i posted but i have a Junction Box problem .... here goes i replaced my stator using the Tux mod method and rectifier on my 1989 vulcan the bike was charging great for a few days then just stopped. i checked the stator and rectifier both were still good. So i started looking for a wiring problem after a few hours of this i found out the the solid yellow wire that runs from the Junction Box to the stator that is suppose to energize the stator no longer is sending power. i also checked all other wires in the same plug and the only one that has power is the cooling fan lead . i guess what i am asking is the Junction Box toast? ..... one other thing this isnt the first time i have had problems with the Junction Box . i also lost my power to the headlight from the Junction Box but the fuse was good. i belive the relay went bad in the Junction Box. could this be the same thing again with the lead that is suppose to energize the stator??

89 750 Vulcan(Heavy Performance Mods "Tresia Ann"
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-23-2016, 10:52 PM
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Hey Bane,
Firstly, the yellow wire that splits off from the three stator wires between the stator and the R/R does NOT energize the stator from the junction box. When the engine is not running it will have no voltage. It's purpose is to take current from a running stator and use it to trigger the headlight relay.

Except for the fan switch you mentioned, none of the other pins should have voltage unless the engine is running (blue wire should have voltage) or starting the bike (black wire from starter button would have voltage. Most of the other wires on that connector are various paths to ground via switches like the neutral switch and kickstand switch.

Once the bike is running, the junction box has little to do with the battery charging. The only wires involved would be the white/red (pin 1 on 8-pin connector) and the solid white (pin 2 on 8-pin connector) which connect the R/R to the positive terminal of the battery via the main 30A fuse in the junction box.

If you can start your bike with a fully charged battery, those wires and the junction box are eliminated as the problem since they are able to transfer the proper current. You could look for a bad connection of the white wire to the R/R (voltage out to bike & source of charging current), or a bad connection of black/yellow at R/R (ground).

1992 US-nonCA * tuxedo mod * r/r relocated

Vulcan slang for newcomers
Service Manual Download
Wiring Diagram + annotations * still undergoing revisions, but still more useful than the generic one. Let me know if you find mistakes or think something additional should be added
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-23-2016, 11:19 PM
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You mentioned the TUX mod. I havent done it, but from my understanding it dont take much to mess that up due to the clearance between the stator and the round perm magnet it fits into. if your stator was working then quit after awhile you might want to pull the stator and make sure its still good and u dont have a clearance problem.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-23-2016, 11:21 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Hey Bane,
Firstly, the yellow wire that splits off from the three stator wires between the stator and the R/R does NOT energize the stator from the junction box. When the engine is not running it will have no voltage. It's purpose is to take current from a running stator and use it to trigger the headlight relay.

Except for the fan switch you mentioned, none of the other pins should have voltage unless the engine is running (blue wire should have voltage) or starting the bike (black wire from starter button would have voltage. Most of the other wires on that connector are various paths to ground via switches like the neutral switch and kickstand switch.

Once the bike is running, the junction box has little to do with the battery charging. The only wires involved would be the white/red (pin 1 on 8-pin connector) and the solid white (pin 2 on 8-pin connector) which connect the R/R to the positive terminal of the battery via the main 30A fuse in the junction box.

If you can start your bike with a fully charged battery, those wires and the junction box are eliminated as the problem since they are able to transfer the proper current. You could look for a bad connection of the white wire to the R/R (voltage out to bike & source of charging current), or a bad connection of black/yellow at R/R (ground).
ok just so i got this straight you are saying the yellow wire that goes to the headlight relay in the junction box works off A/C current and has nothing to do with the charging?? If so when i installed the new stator and rectifier and all BUT the yellow wire was connected it would not charge at all and when it was hooked up it started to charge. Keeping in mind that the (yellow) wire had to be connected to the one of the 3 leads from the stator that would not produce a/c current with the bike running and all 3 leads disconnected.

89 750 Vulcan(Heavy Performance Mods "Tresia Ann"
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-24-2016, 12:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bane View Post
ok just so i got this straight you are saying the yellow wire that goes to the headlight relay in the junction box works off A/C current and has nothing to do with the charging??
That is correct.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bane View Post
If so when i installed the new stator and rectifier and all BUT the yellow wire was connected it would not charge at all and when it was hooked up it started to charge.
I double-checked the wiring diagram (see my signature for a copy), and the yellow wire to the junction box has nothing to do with charging. I've disconnected my yellow wire after adding a manual headlight switch, and I charge just fine.
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Originally Posted by Bane View Post
Keeping in mind that the (yellow) wire had to be connected to the one of the 3 leads from the stator that would not produce a/c current with the bike running and all 3 leads disconnected.
What? The leads should be producing a/c current with the bike running. The yellow wire to the junction box could be connected to any one of those three stator leads. Not sure what you're trying to explain.

I think ifixf18s has a valid point and that the tux mod is probably the root of your problem. You say that you've tested the stator after the charging stopped working. How exactly did you test it? are you getting the proper resistance between all three leads, AND getting infinite resistance to ground on all three leads? It might be that the stator is grounding out only at a certain point in the engine rotation? Not sure if that's physically possible or not.

1992 US-nonCA * tuxedo mod * r/r relocated

Vulcan slang for newcomers
Service Manual Download
Wiring Diagram + annotations * still undergoing revisions, but still more useful than the generic one. Let me know if you find mistakes or think something additional should be added
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-24-2016, 05:58 AM Thread Starter
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i very well my be doing this wrong but i disconnected the stator started the engine. connected the positive lead from my meter to a single lead coming from the stator and connect the negative lead to the engine block. 2 of the 3 leads was putting out 28 volts a/c or higher depending on the engine rpm. the 3rd lead put out 0 volts a/c.No matter the rpm.

89 750 Vulcan(Heavy Performance Mods "Tresia Ann"
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-28-2016, 06:12 AM
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All 3 yellow wires from the stator go to the R/R, one of the yellow wires has a wire spliced to it that goes to the JB as mentioned before that controls the head light relay. All 3 wires from the stator should have A/C voltage when the bike is running, what, i dont remember. Also you can check all 3 wires to ground checking resistance. All 3 should be completly open ( no continuity). Good luck
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-28-2016, 06:53 AM Thread Starter
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well i have a new stator on the way. i believe the first was bad because i only got a/c current from 2 of the 3 leads.

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-29-2016, 08:31 AM
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did you pull the other stator? was there any evidence of chaffing?
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-29-2016, 12:19 PM Thread Starter
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there was no sign of "rubbing" arc or anything i really checked it over i do not think the mod had anything to do with it. i got the plate from the guy on here that holds the patent GC extreme i believe was the name can not really remember right now. Followed the instructions to the letter.

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