Problems with alternator? - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Electrical
Where does this wire go?
Includes Electrical mods, Lights, Stator,
Rectifier, Diagrams, etc

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-24-2008, 06:44 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 43
iTrader: (0)
 
Problems with alternator?

I've recently had some problems with the switch on the bike, but think I have those mostly resolved. I was having problems that when the bike turned hard right, it would cut out and I'd have to jiggle the switch. I cleaned out and adjusted the switch, and that problem seems to have gone away. I also recently blew the main fuse, which I think was due to the switch.

Now, the bike runs great but after a 30-40 mile ride, the bike won't start off the starter. I can push start it, no problem, and the lights are all real bright. But, it seems like after a long ride the battery gets low enough that the starter won't turn over the motor. The battery is a brand new MF battery.

Could this be a problem with the "alternator"? I don't even know if this bike has one, or where it would be, or how to check if there is a problem. Its an 86 with about 25,000 miles on it. So, I imagine there can be many possible problems?

Any suggestions? If I keep having these problems, my only option may be to buy another bike. Seems like every time I fix one problem, I get another.
The_Spaceboy is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-24-2008, 07:06 PM
Old Truck Junkie
 
niterider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Roby Texas
Posts: 4,130
iTrader: (15)
 
Where do you live, how much do want for it??? Just playing!!
Take the volt meter set it on 20 DC volts. While engine is running test across the negative and hot posts on the batt. rev engine up some and see if the volts go up 13.0 or so. If it does the alternator (stator0 is probably ok. Be sure to check main ground connection and main hot side connections.

02 honda sabre 1100
niterider is offline  
post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-24-2008, 07:55 PM
Old Twistie Sticks Rider
 
Old Dog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Country Created by Geniuses, But Run by Idiots...!!!
Posts: 5,072
iTrader: (2)
 
Have you relocated the rectifier...???
Could the rectifier be getting hot and or failing...??? Also watch this post.. https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8353 ...
Have a good one...Old Dog...

Southern Central Tennessee.......
Now on the Dark Side......
Girl's Bike 09 Sporty xl 1200 Custom...33k + & clickin......
Sportster Owner/Rider since age 72...lol... Rider since Simplex...???
09-xl1200 "C" Vivid Black, Cast wheels w/19" Frt., SE-Stage 1+, X14iEDs...
MicroTach +, Higher wider H-bars, GPS Mt., Mustach bar Hwy. pegs...
Viking Shock cutout Saddlebags, Rear Mt. Signal Lt. Kit, Fork Brace...
RoadKing Air Shocks, Mustang Seat, Progressive Fork Springs...

Last edited by Old Dog; 08-24-2008 at 07:57 PM.
Old Dog is offline  
 
post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-25-2008, 06:36 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 43
iTrader: (0)
 
One thing I was thinking, is that the problem seems to be worse when the bike is hot. If it sits for a while, it seems to start up okay. Its hard to tell if the battery is actually dead or not, or if something is causing it to start hard (seems like the starter has no juice, but the headlight and other lights are very bright).

How would I check the main ground connection and main hot side connections? And where is this rectifier? Thanks for the help, hopefully I can get it going.
The_Spaceboy is offline  
post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-25-2008, 06:44 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 43
iTrader: (0)
 
One other question, I see a lot of posts about the "RR". What does this mean, and where is it located?

I did recently blow a fuse for some mysterious reason, and am wondering if that could be related to what I'm seeing. It definitely seems worse when the bike is hot, but I'm not much of a mechanic so I don't know for sure what is happening.

I'll get a meter and try checking the battery to see if its is charging.
The_Spaceboy is offline  
post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-25-2008, 07:04 PM
Old Truck Junkie
 
niterider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Roby Texas
Posts: 4,130
iTrader: (15)
 
On checking the connections just check that they are clean and that the clamps on the wires are tight.
The r&r is the regulator and rectifier. It is under the battery in front of the rear tire.
From what I gather you may have a starter that needs rebuilding, new brushes, bushing and some cleaning.

02 honda sabre 1100
niterider is offline  
post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-25-2008, 09:42 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 43
iTrader: (0)
 
Thanks, I borrowed a good meter and looks like I have some testing to do tomorrow night. I'm confused about the temperature thing though now, since just tonight I tried to start it cold and still it wouldn't start. So, I guess the temperature doesn't make a difference.

The lights are bright, so I'm thinking the battery still has some juice. The starter just doesn't turn over. It goes like its straining, and then sometimes clicks a bunch of times. I figured it was a dead battery, since when the battery is fully charged it seems to start up okay. Its hard to say. These electrical problems are really confusing...
The_Spaceboy is offline  
post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-25-2008, 10:41 PM
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 77
iTrader: (0)
 
since you mention the temp, it really DOES sound like the starter like niterider said. temperature is a major factor in a starter's incapability to crank the engine
85vulcan is offline  
post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-25-2008, 11:40 PM
Members who have donated towards server costs
 
ChrisC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Wayne, NJ
Posts: 405
iTrader: (3)
 
Based on what I have experienced with my bike, the battery seems to need at least 12.5 V to turn over. When I was having issues with the stator and RR, I found that all the lights were on and bright, but the engine wouldn't start unless the battery was up over 12.5 V. If I charged the battery with the tender, I could ride it for a while, until the battery got below around 12.5 VDC. I'd start with the easy stuff and work back. With the battery fully charged, if you can start it, put the meter on and check the voltage @2500 and 5000 RPM. It should be in the 13.5 to 14.5 VDC range, and should increase as the RPM's increase. If it's not, then I would run the diags on the stator and RR. I can help walk you through the testing process if you need a hand. If it is charging, then the starter may be the culprit. The thing that sticks out for me, is that the bike starts on a full charge. It sounds a lot like the way my bike behaved before I switched out my fried stator and RR.

Chris
Wayne, NJ
1989 VN750-A5
VROC #27781
-Replaced/Fused Stator & Replaced/Relocated R/R (15K mi.)
-MF Battery
-De-Goated/Re-goated
-Coastered
-Splines Lubed
-Stebel Nautilus Horn
-AutoMeter 2" VOM
-Silverstar Headlight
-Refinished Gauge Rings and Mirrors(Flat Black)
-Refinished Swingarm/Lubed Pivots
-K&S Turn Signals Clear Cover/Amber Bulb
-Kenda Kruz 110/90-19 front 170/80-15 rear
-Clear Alternatives LED tail light
-Plexifairing III
-Willie & Max Saddlebags and SissyBar Bag
ChrisC is offline  
post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-26-2008, 05:41 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 43
iTrader: (0)
 
Thanks -- I have the bike charging now (so I can start it) and do some of the battery tests. I did notice some corrosion around the poles of the battery, which I've never seen before. I did have it on the charger overnight by accident (on 2amp charge) right before this problem started. I don't know if that could be related. The battery is brand new, though.

Are there any pics anywhere of where exactly the wires on the RR are to test? I can see the RR, but am having trouble figuring out what exactly needs to be tested.

If its the stator, the bike might be done for. It sounds like that is a tough job, and I'm not much of a mechanic. How much would a local mechanic charge for fixing that? I only payed 700 bucks for the bike, but I've put over 600 bucks into this year so far (tires, brakes, battery, tune-up). I hate to have to get rid of it, but if its going to cost me a fortune then I might put the money into a newer bike. I'd like to get this one running good at least, so I can sell it without screwing someone over.
The_Spaceboy is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Bookmarks

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

Once registered, your User Name"cannot be changed". We can make exceptions within 7 days, but after that, it is set in stone.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome