Testing my stator\charging system (video) - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-21-2016, 11:42 AM Thread Starter
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Testing my stator\charging system (video)

I was hoping I could make a video that might be helpful to others on checking battery charge state and voltage output at various rpm ranges.


I wanted to verify I have a good stator before tearing my engine out for shift rod replacement. Feedback welcome if I went about testing incorrectly. I understand some test resistance at various points? Helpful\not helpful?

My results:
Idle voltage at battery 13.5 minimum to 14.5v
3k rpm - 14.25v
4k rpm - 14.0v

new (Yuasa-made) AGM battery. For reference prior to this video the bike had many starts (dozen?) without running above 2k at all.

2002 vn750
AGM battery, Shinko 230 tires oversized front
Ear shaved - k&n pods, drilled clutch basket
MCCT
40/138 jetting

If I can split a case and make it work - you can too!
Forum pictures:http://s150.photobucket.com/user/Gid...?sort=3&page=1
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-21-2016, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by gidaeon View Post
I was hoping I could make a video that might be helpful to others on checking battery charge state and voltage output at various rpm ranges.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QmjkdT6Uees

I wanted to verify I have a good stator before tearing my engine out for shift rod replacement. Feedback welcome if I went about testing incorrectly. I understand some test resistance at various points? Helpful\not helpful?

My results:
Idle voltage at battery 13.5 minimum to 14.5v
3k rpm - 14.25v
4k rpm - 14.0v

new (Yuasa-made) AGM battery. For reference prior to this video the bike had many starts (dozen?) without running above 2k at all.


You are measuring it correctly and it is perfect at 14.6v ( charging ) and for idle that's excellent.

Now... if you'd like to see how much of that drops off in your harness... then leave the black on ground where it is... and move the red to the red wire ( bottom side ) of your rear ignition coil. ( can be either actually, but the rear will be closer for your meter... use an alligator clip if you have one, or see if you can get that pointy tip to touch the lead... should be EXACTLY the same ( but won't ever be... the difference is your voltage drop to your ignition coils across the switches, fuse and the harness ).

Nice meter by the way.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-21-2016, 12:39 PM
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14 volts at 4000 RPM? Shouldnt the voltage be higher at a higher RPM? also out of curiosity, what's your idling RPM? 1100 you said? Id be concerned if youre getting an idle charge of 14.61 volts and its less when the RPM's are higher. Something isnt right there. Is that a stock RR or a Mosfet?

Mosfet R/R and relocated
2 wire Mod for the 1986 harness
VN750.com grill cover

Last edited by mikesutch; 04-21-2016 at 12:43 PM.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-21-2016, 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by mikesutch View Post
14 volts at 4000 RPM? Shouldnt the voltage be higher at a higher RPM? also out of curiosity, what's your idling RPM? 1100 you said? Id be concerned if youre getting an idle charge of 14.61 volts and its less when the RPM's are higher. Something isnt right there. Is that a stock RR or a Mosfet?
MOSFET will regulate a tad differently depending on input amperage.

1986 Kawasaki Vulcan 750
NGK Iridium Plugs #7803/DPR7EIX-9
Duralast Gold ETX15 AGM Battery
Coastered & Shaved
TOC MCCTs
Metzeler ME880 [110/90-19, 170/80-15]
Balance Dampers Replaced
Tuxedo Mod
Rebuilt Forks w/ Progressive Springs
V&H Cruzers
VN750.com Grill Cover
Meanstreak Seat
Emgo 23-92411 Handlebars
MOSFET FH012AA R/R


1990 Kawasaki Vulcan 750

1998 Honda VFR800 FI

2014 Honda VFR800F

1989 Pontiac Firebird Formula 350
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-21-2016, 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by mikesutch View Post
14 volts at 4000 RPM? Shouldnt the voltage be higher at a higher RPM? also out of curiosity, what's your idling RPM? 1100 you said? Id be concerned if youre getting an idle charge of 14.61 volts and its less when the RPM's are higher. Something isnt right there. Is that a stock RR or a Mosfet?
Mosfet is a gated switch . . . it allows current through... depending on the design, it would normally have a very low drop . . . i.e. it would hardly ever change across the spectrum.

If it's an SCR though, then it kicked on in time, and then all it's doing is sending the extra power into that heatsink. Depending on the design ( again ) that heatsink will vary the temperature as it heats up. And the variable temperature would affect the SCR initially ( as it goes hotter, it would allow more through until its reference component settles from the change as well ). One would need a scope and a fast thermistor to test that, but... either way... again, if it's not going over 14.6, then it won't over charge the battery, which is good. And if it's over 13.5 then it's still charging which is good.

Just my opinion and i stand corrected in advance.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-21-2016, 01:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoadHopper View Post
Mosfet is a gated switch . . . it allows current through... depending on the design, it would normally have a very low drop . . . i.e. it would hardly ever change across the spectrum.

If it's an SCR though, then it kicked on in time, and then all it's doing is sending the extra power into that heatsink. Depending on the design ( again ) that heatsink will vary the temperature as it heats up. And the variable temperature would affect the SCR initially ( as it goes hotter, it would allow more through until its reference component settles from the change as well ). One would need a scope and a fast thermistor to test that, but... either way... again, if it's not going over 14.6, then it won't over charge the battery, which is good. And if it's over 13.5 then it's still charging which is good.

Just my opinion and i stand corrected in advance.
I agree w all of the above, but the mechanics of the spinning rotor in the stator windings tell me that the higher the RPM, the higher the output should be. Just seems weird is all. Ive been monitoring mine closely lately after Ive added a mosfet (wired to battery direct)and made some electrical upgrades. The Mosfet (on mine at least) will Idle at about 13 and rev up to 14.5 or so. The higher the rev, the higher the voltage. Once I slow down on the throttle, the voltage slowly declines. Again, mechanically this makes sense. Anyone have a different take on it?

Thinking about it, if he has a Jfet RR on there w a monitor wire, the input voltage to that monitor wire could be weird causing a strange RR output pattern. The Mosfet works differently with no monitor wire from another circuit. It adjusts the output with a gate diode system as hopper suggested and therefore should be spot on all the time assuming the RR is good.
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Mosfet R/R and relocated
2 wire Mod for the 1986 harness
VN750.com grill cover

Last edited by mikesutch; 04-21-2016 at 02:00 PM.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-21-2016, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by mikesutch View Post
I agree w all of the above, but the mechanics of the spinning rotor in the stator windings tell me that the higher the RPM, the higher the output should be. Just seems weird is all. Ive been monitoring mine closely lately after Ive added a mosfet (wired to battery direct)and made some electrical upgrades. The Mosfet (on mine at least) will Idle at about 13 and rev up to 14.5 or so. The higher the rev, the higher the voltage. Once I slow down on the throttle, the voltage slowly declines. Again, mechanically this makes sense. Anyone have a different take on it?

Thinking about it, if he has a Jfet RR on there w a monitor wire, the input voltage to that monitor wire could be weird causing a strange RR output pattern. The Mosfet works differently with no monitor wire from another circuit. It adjusts the output with a gate diode system as hopper suggested and therefore should be spot on all the time assuming the RR is good.

So far,... i've seen about 6 different types of design, four of them mosfet, and i no likey any of them. LOL The kinds that are stable using mosfets... i like them best, but they have the threat of kicking back to the stator if part of them fail. The SCR's are just a waste of power... seems to me... with all that power being shunted off ... the battery should be turned off at full charge ( for whatever duty cycle that may be until it cools down ) and the extra power diverted into the bike instead, erm... like... ( me bitching at designers shields up ) ESPECIALLY WHEN THE IGNITION IS SO LAME IT NEEDS AN OVERRIDE ( okay me-bitching shields down ). Anyways... it all depends on the design. And the costs... for the cost of the various parts... and that heatsink, vs. the cost of an R/R... :/

okies, i am getting off the soapbox now. Your turn to bitch at the devs if you like.

( Roadhopper hands mikesutch the offeeshul electronic dev bashing aluminum baseball bat, takes a seat and grabs a box of popcorn )
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-21-2016, 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by RoadHopper View Post
So far,... i've seen about 6 different types of design, four of them mosfet, and i no likey any of them. LOL The kinds that are stable using mosfets... i like them best, but they have the threat of kicking back to the stator if part of them fail. The SCR's are just a waste of power... seems to me... with all that power being shunted off ... the battery should be turned off at full charge ( for whatever duty cycle that may be until it cools down ) and the extra power diverted into the bike instead, erm... like... ( me bitching at designers shields up ) ESPECIALLY WHEN THE IGNITION IS SO LAME IT NEEDS AN OVERRIDE ( okay me-bitching shields down ). Anyways... it all depends on the design. And the costs... for the cost of the various parts... and that heatsink, vs. the cost of an R/R... :/

okies, i am getting off the soapbox now. Your turn to bitch at the devs if you like.

( Roadhopper hands mikesutch the offeeshul electronic dev bashing aluminum baseball bat, takes a seat and grabs a box of popcorn )
(Mikesutch is working and has no time for roadhopper's shenanigans)

Mosfet R/R and relocated
2 wire Mod for the 1986 harness
VN750.com grill cover
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-21-2016, 06:08 PM Thread Starter
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I think half this thread is not in English haha. I also expected higher rpm higher voltage but can accept "the magic boxes" do strange things.

Mainly I just wanted to know my stator will live a bit longer as I'm about to tear up the engine and don't want to do such more than once.

Short side story: my wife's career background prior to child rearing was as Electrical Engineer for Fanuc Robotics (paint/assembly robotics used by some of the big three etc.,) anyway, when I ask for help with anything electrical wiring she responds with terms like in this thread from road hopper and I just blink and look confused.
So then I say, "did I put the wire in the right spot\order"? and I receive a lesson I don't understand about grounds..

2002 vn750
AGM battery, Shinko 230 tires oversized front
Ear shaved - k&n pods, drilled clutch basket
MCCT
40/138 jetting

If I can split a case and make it work - you can too!
Forum pictures:http://s150.photobucket.com/user/Gid...?sort=3&page=1
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-21-2016, 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by mikesutch View Post
(Mikesutch is working and has no time for roadhopper's shenanigans)
( Roadhopper continues reading up on Switching Power supplies, DC to DC converters, and high current bridge rectifiers for less than $5 while eating popcorn )

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