Electrical issues - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Electrical
Where does this wire go?
Includes Electrical mods, Lights, Stator,
Rectifier, Diagrams, etc

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post #1 of 55 (permalink) Old 04-15-2016, 06:40 PM Thread Starter
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Electrical issues

OK so I have a Mosfet RR installed and relocated, I completed the 2 wire mod (1986 harness), The stator puts out the correct voltage for each leg and no leg is grounded whatsoever.

It starts right up and idles at 12.3- 12.6 volts depending on warmth of engine. Full speed no matter how fast Im going it goes no higher than 14.3 volts. You can see it go up properly as you start moving and it never dips below regular idle Voltage. After riding about half hour, the voltage was getting lower and lower until it was idling at 11.9 and not revving higher than 13.6. I got it home and turned it off. Of course the fan ran a while.. Tested voltage w it off and it was 12.5. Tried to start it again and blah.. barely cranks. WTF?! I tested the stator again at this point and same exact readings. Definitely not grounded to the frame.

Any ideas? My low beam hasn't been working as I was discussing on another thread. Could the headlight be screwing my electrical up so bad?

Mosfet R/R and relocated
2 wire Mod for the 1986 harness
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post #2 of 55 (permalink) Old 04-15-2016, 06:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikesutch View Post
OK so I have a Mosfet RR installed and relocated, I completed the 2 wire mod (1986 harness), The stator puts out the correct voltage for each leg and no leg is grounded whatsoever.

It starts right up and idles at 12.3- 12.6 volts depending on warmth of engine. Full speed no matter how fast Im going it goes no higher than 14.3 volts. You can see it go up properly as you start moving and it never dips below regular idle Voltage. After riding about half hour, the voltage was getting lower and lower until it was idling at 11.9 and not revving higher than 13.6. I got it home and turned it off. Of course the fan ran a while.. Tested voltage w it off and it was 12.5. Tried to start it again and blah.. barely cranks. WTF?! I tested the stator again at this point and same exact readings. Definitely not grounded to the frame.

Any ideas? My low beam hasn't been working as I was discussing on another thread. Could the headlight be screwing my electrical up so bad?
Going to be putting a switch on my headlamp for exactly that reason and a few others.

In anycase, charge the battery by hand to full, then try the same test again without your headlamp and see. It pulls 5 amps. ( 12v at 60watts ).
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post #3 of 55 (permalink) Old 04-15-2016, 06:53 PM Thread Starter
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Going to be putting a switch on my headlamp for exactly that reason and a few others.

In anycase, charge the battery by hand to full, then try the same test again without your headlamp and see. It pulls 5 amps. ( 12v at 60watts ).
Oh good idea. I can just pull the headlight fuse and do the same ride. See if it changes. Also I think Ill need to ride it till warm again this time leave it running and test the voltage for each stator leg. I hate to say it but I may have to replace the stator..

Mosfet R/R and relocated
2 wire Mod for the 1986 harness
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post #4 of 55 (permalink) Old 04-15-2016, 07:30 PM
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Oh good idea. I can just pull the headlight fuse and do the same ride. See if it changes. Also I think Ill need to ride it till warm again this time leave it running and test the voltage for each stator leg. I hate to say it but I may have to replace the stator..
You and me both. Now you know some of the other reasons for that switch. ( grins ) I will eventually make a dash for her from scratch so, thinking about LED toggle switches. Two so far for sure... perhaps others... as i am considering it and time goes on... but... I want an LED that shows the lamp is actually on ( for daytime especially ), and the other already planned switch is going to be for the fan. The fan switch will simply bypass a working fan-switch under the radiator to force it on, but the LED will show that it is actually ON so i don't need to listen for it. That way, as a dual-switch/idiot lamp, it will show the fan turning on at the dash even if the switch is turned off.

I also want 2 voltmeters on the dash, one for DC and one that monitors the stator's AC output. So that switch on the headlamp, should become a real nice trouble-shooter while riding ( dashing ) instead of off the side of the road.
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post #5 of 55 (permalink) Old 04-15-2016, 07:32 PM
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That idle voltage seems low to me. Are you the one that said you like your bike to idle slow. I CRS. Just in case, slow idle is bad for charge volts and oil pressure.

14.3v is pretty good. But I can't explain the drop yet. At one point it stopped charging.

We know the battery is good as far as cranking amps? Been load tested? Bad battery can drag down voltage.

Might need to try and repeat the failure and test the r/r right then.

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post #6 of 55 (permalink) Old 04-15-2016, 08:56 PM
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and remember, check the simple stuff first... like connections!
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post #7 of 55 (permalink) Old 04-16-2016, 02:59 PM Thread Starter
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I literally just installed the RR and tested it prior to install. Also just had the battery load tested. All the RR wiring is brand new and soldered up expertly if I do say so myself
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post #8 of 55 (permalink) Old 04-16-2016, 03:03 PM
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Check grounds

Other than that, I wouldn't be surprised if there isn't a draw in the dash somewhere. Tach, ignition switch, etc. I have a draw somewhere too, nothing that keeps my battery from dipping below 12.6v (full charge), but it's there...

1986 Kawasaki Vulcan 750
NGK Iridium Plugs #7803/DPR7EIX-9
Duralast Gold ETX15 AGM Battery
Coastered & Shaved
TOC MCCTs
Metzeler ME880 [110/90-19, 170/80-15]
Balance Dampers Replaced
Tuxedo Mod
Rebuilt Forks w/ Progressive Springs
V&H Cruzers
VN750.com Grill Cover
Meanstreak Seat
Emgo 23-92411 Handlebars
MOSFET FH012AA R/R


1990 Kawasaki Vulcan 750

1998 Honda VFR800 FI

2014 Honda VFR800F

1989 Pontiac Firebird Formula 350
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post #9 of 55 (permalink) Old 04-16-2016, 04:13 PM Thread Starter
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That's a good point. The voltage does drop pretty considerably just from turning the key on. Back to the GD drawing board
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post #10 of 55 (permalink) Old 04-16-2016, 04:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikesutch View Post
That's a good point. The voltage does drop pretty considerably just from turning the key on. Back to the GD drawing board
try eliminating the headlight out of the equation....via a connector.

'86 VN750 13,700 mi -Stock
-Purchased 2008 w/8800mi
Replaced ALL Cables . Kuryakyn LED Voltmeter
SilverStar Ultra 9003/HB2 H4 Headlamp, Jardine Fwd Controls,
Iridiums DPR7EIX-9 & Wires, Tuxedo Mod, Coil Mod, P/U Sensor Mod, Fork Seals,
Splines Lubed - 11/4/2012 - MF AGM Battery
Additional Flashing LED Brake Light on Trunk
Dampers went out @ 13+K !
After TOC MCCT's..... so amazingly quiet I discovered a rattling heat shield on my stock exhaust !
...have a vulcan good day!
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