Thank you guy all the help on this, I really appreciate it. When i bought the bike it was all stripped down (no speedo/tach/turn signals). All the wires were cut and taped. Last year I had zero issues with the bike however the last couple of months its been harder and harder to start. I replaced the plugs with the iridium plugs hoping this would be easier to start. This is a totally new thing that has happened this last week with the spark and no spark deal. Sunday I will test the pick up coils and do the Mod to them either way. I was just hoping since every time I lost spark I missed with the kickstand plunger I got spark back but then again just for it to die and loss spark. I appreciate all the advice and will try everything stated until its fixed. Thanks again for the input as it is really needed,
Now it's starting to sound more like a battery problem which leads to our dear old friend the stator. The stator takes its time to die because just like the ignition coils, its magnet wire with thin insulation that melts slowly due to heat. Because of that, it will charge the battery less and less over time as more and more of its coils short together.
This leads the troubleshooter to believe at first that the battery is ok. "Hey i just put in a brand new one! Ran great first day!". And the bike will crank the starter motor to some degree but no spark will be "hot enough" to jump the gap of the plug while the starter is turning and sucking juice. After the bike gets going again, it charges insufficient, but warms up and the troubleshooter is led to believe it was just cold. So sure enough, when it gets to sit overnight again, it will certainly be cold in the morning.
Checking the stator is an easy process that involves removing only three wires from their plugs and the three wires can be put back together connected in any order. You'll need a voltmeter that can handle upwards of 120VAC (like wall current ), DC voltage with a nice 24V scale if its analog ( other higher will do, but be harder to read ), and be able to measure resistance. It doesn't need to be expensive, but i'd suggest a digital meter. The meter does not need to be super-accurate like a bench meter, but it does need to be sensitive enough to read battery voltages between 10.5 and 15 because an automotive battery that is only 12v may as well be dead and there is a big difference between 12.5 volts and 13.5 volts, only the latter will kick the rectifier enough to start charging the battery with enough juice to make any difference.
Checking the stator ONE TIME can be compared to checking the oil one time. To really know if it truly is the stator you'll need to check it as a regular part of your maintenance routine; only then can you "watch it die" if it starts to fail. Read the Vulcan Verses under the electrical forum about the steps to check the stator.
Hope this helps and i stand corrected in advance.