Tux Stator Mod Oil - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-08-2016, 12:55 AM Thread Starter
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Tux Stator Mod Oil

I've read through the threads, watched the vids, etc. Am i comprehending correctly that the outer magneto cover is the very first step without draining the oil? Saw several mentions of people saying they decided to "also" change the oil, or do so after the mod, . . .

Just want to keep the surprises to a minimum since i don't own the parking lot where i'll be doing the work.
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post #2 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-08-2016, 11:02 AM
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You need to drain the oil first, or lay the bike on the opposite site (not suggested).

Another reason for the oil change is to get rid of any metal burs left potentially in your engine after the mod.

1986 Kawasaki Vulcan 750
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Tuxedo Mod
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post #3 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-08-2016, 03:35 PM
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Good luck with the mod, RoadHopper. You're a brave man to undertake that without a garage! I'd offer you some working space, but it's a bit of a ride...

1992 US-nonCA * tuxedo mod * r/r relocated

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post #4 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-08-2016, 04:04 PM
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No kidding - that's a mod I wouldn't touch in a parking lot. How are you going to grind down the cover?

1986 VN750 27k miles
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post #5 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-08-2016, 04:57 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thorn View Post
Good luck with the mod, RoadHopper. You're a brave man to undertake that without a garage! I'd offer you some working space, but it's a bit of a ride...
LOL ( Shields up ) Bravery is a mixture of 1% idea, 4% stupidity, 5% courage, 50% desperation, 20% frustration, and 20% pure will. ( Shields down ).

( notice how i left any mention of tools out of that equation? )
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post #6 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-08-2016, 05:26 PM
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post #7 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-08-2016, 05:58 PM
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Last edited by Spockster; 04-08-2016 at 07:19 PM. Reason: editing
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post #8 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-08-2016, 06:19 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thtanner View Post
You need to drain the oil first,. . .
So opening that outside cover is going to be greeted by a gush of crankcase oil that would pretty much do the same thing, correct? Or would there only be a dribble from the bottom?

The reason it's still a question is because i was reading other threads talking about adding a port to the top of that area and "T"-ing the oil line overhead to spray oil into the compartment to cool the stator; and because of how low the oil is in the oil-gauge window compared to the height of the rest of the bike. It leaves the impression that the area is "oily" but an air cavity for the most part.



Quote:
Originally Posted by calebj View Post
No kidding - that's a mod I wouldn't touch in a parking lot. How are you going to grind down the cover?

Right now this is the planning and design phase. There are various limitations interacting here ( and i mean "here" literally ). In the following time/budget considerations, "ETC" stands for "estimated time of completion". "RSQ" stands for "Roadhopper Stupidity Quotient".

To have the engine dropped in a shop is going to be a minimum of 4 hour labor. Price tag ~$450 with an electrosport stator included. ETC 4 months. No Tux mod. :/

To replace the stator without transferring the mounting of the stator from "inside" the crankcase to "outside" has a 99% RSQ since the odds of getting a stator that not only works the first time, but also lasts another couple of years are out of fiscal tolerance due to my tight budget and Murphy's Law.

So, "Tux" mod or perhaps a better name for this might be simply "Stator Mount Transfer Mod" ( SMTM ). Not to discredit TuxedoSeven in any way, but i might not use this extra mounting plate that he more or less designed as integral to the Tux-mod procedure.

That pretty much rules out using a "shop".

A dremel and accessories is about $100. It is absolutely necessary for any sort of SMTM.

The extra plate costs $65 to have it fabricated by an expert ( which is a very reasonable price ). The plate adds width, though to the full assembly so requires a gasket made which is cheap and easy but necessary?

Two alternatives to that route would be either filing down the mounts of the 3 outer-circumference holes the same width as the plate ( which is a bad idea since they probably only have that much width to begin with and/or weakens the mount ) -OR- Skipping the Tuxedo-Plate and using the cover itself since it already has 3 of those holes perfectly bored.

In any case, cutting the inside-stator mounting plate means lots of aluminum filings. Dremel has a circular-guide arm that fits the tool and aluminum is soft and nasty for high speed. I was thinking of making a jig to hold the Dremel guide to the plate at center, then making several scraping passes in a nice dremel-perfect circle sparing only the top two ribs to hold the plate in position until it was scrape-cut out for the most part, then filing the ribs as the final step before pulling the stator out.


Dremel's circular-guide arm:
https://www.dremel.com/en-us/Attachm...spx?pid=678-01

Electrosport Stator:
Buy New Stator Kawasaki VN700 / VN750 Vulcan VN750 Vulcan (86-95)


The final consideration that makes any type of SMTM "necessary" is that i plan on rewinding the old stator myself even if i replace it with the electrosport. I want to experiment with a larger diameter wire and perhaps fewer turns to lower the RPM rate where the coil charges optimally. In effect, a "city-stator" that is intended to deliver a healthy charge when the fan is on idling at a stop light. When it comes time to do a cross-country trip to Washington DC next Fall, i can swap it out for a "highway-stator".

That trip, btw, limits the ETC and budget as well. If i did my math right, when i arrive, i'll need to do an oil change, ( grins ).
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post #9 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-08-2016, 06:37 PM
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Last edited by Spockster; 04-08-2016 at 07:19 PM. Reason: Editing
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post #10 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-08-2016, 06:48 PM Thread Starter
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