So here's a stupid idea - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-22-2016, 11:47 AM Thread Starter
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So here's a stupid idea

I've been dealing w lots of electrical issues w my bike as youve seen in my threads. My biggest issue is that I can ride the bike as long as I want but when I park it and go to start it back up later, the battery is usually dead. I have found that my busted R/R is causing a parasitic draw and is getting replaced this weekend.

I did a bit of an experiment recently just for S's and G's. I started the bike up on Friday and it ran fine as always. I then disconnected the negative battery terminal. Now its been almost 4 days, I just went out there in the 46 degrees where the bike has been outside in the cold under a cover for days. I reconnected the battery and Boom she fires right up.

My point finally is, Knowing that these older 750's have issues like these, wouldnt it be prudent to connect a kill switch? Just wire that sucker right in line on the negative terminal and mount it somewhere where it wont get bumped while riding. Turn it off when parked and flip it back on to ride. I mean Im all for resolving the actual issue, but sh!t I wanna ride my freakin bike this spring ya know?! thoughts?

Mosfet R/R and relocated
2 wire Mod for the 1986 harness
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-22-2016, 12:03 PM
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not a bad idea, but it better be a heavy duty switch if you are going to do it.
Negative terminal has ALL current loads carried through it, so at the battery terminal, it has the most load on it.

Make sure the switch contacts can handle up to 30Amps to be safe.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-22-2016, 12:11 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kc2dgq View Post
not a bad idea, but it better be a heavy duty switch if you are going to do it.
Negative terminal has ALL current loads carried through it, so at the battery terminal, it has the most load on it.

Make sure the switch contacts can handle up to 30Amps to be safe.
I had considered the same. I'll see how much my new Mosfet helps the parasitic draw when I install it Saturday. For some reason Im not expecting a 100% resolution, but I dont wanna spend the entire season chasing gremlins. As a temporary band aid if that doesnt get it 100%.

This guy : Dorman Conduct-Tite! 84841 - LED Rocker Switch | O'Reilly Auto Parts

might do the trick. Just to give me the time I need to rewire and troubleshoot without losing road time..

Mosfet R/R and relocated
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-22-2016, 12:17 PM
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I'd almost go for a 50A if you can find one. The ground is REALLY important for obvious reasons.

Hope you find your issue. Make sure you don't have a small short somewhere!

1986 Kawasaki Vulcan 750
NGK Iridium Plugs #7803/DPR7EIX-9
Duralast Gold ETX15 AGM Battery
Coastered & Shaved
TOC MCCTs
Metzeler ME880 [110/90-19, 170/80-15]
Balance Dampers Replaced
Tuxedo Mod
Rebuilt Forks w/ Progressive Springs
V&H Cruzers
VN750.com Grill Cover
Meanstreak Seat
Emgo 23-92411 Handlebars
MOSFET FH012AA R/R


1990 Kawasaki Vulcan 750

1998 Honda VFR800 FI

2014 Honda VFR800F

1989 Pontiac Firebird Formula 350
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-22-2016, 12:29 PM
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50A wont be enough.. not if you want it to live for long..

your forgetting, ALL the starter current goes thru it as well as all the current from the other loads.

if you wanted to break the connection with a smaller switch, then break the positive side.. the solenoid will be open preventing starter current from flowing, and the added switch can handle the other stuff. going this route will allow a smaller switch

2005 VN750

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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-22-2016, 12:32 PM
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How about a "master relay"? Provide a separate 12 volt line to open and close it that turns on and off with the key. That way you wouldn't have to remember to throw a switch. High current 12 volt relays are plentiful. Just a suggestion.

Would it be possible to have the relay switch the ground of the RR? Then you wouldn't need a separate 12 volt supply to the relay coil. One of the accessory wires in the headlight bucket would work, assuming they are switched on and off with the key, which I think they are.

"Katie"
2002 VN 750, stock except for accessories
Mustang seat
Super Bright LED brake strobe on trunk
About 25k miles
All drive train maintenance performed, drive shaft coupler replaced
Way more experienced at pulling VN 750 carbs than I ever wanted to be.
TOC ACCT rebuild kits installed
Pick up coil mod
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VN sold, current steed Honda ST 1300

Last edited by rsavant; 03-22-2016 at 12:37 PM.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-22-2016, 12:45 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thtanner View Post
I'd almost go for a 50A if you can find one. The ground is REALLY important for obvious reasons.

Hope you find your issue. Make sure you don't have a small short somewhere!
There is a lot to go through to make sure my electrical is 100% thats why Im looking at something like this. Thanks for the links the other day as well. I did end up buying the R/R and connectors from the links you sent. You can now say "I told you so"...

Mosfet R/R and relocated
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-22-2016, 12:47 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rsavant View Post
How about a "master relay"? Provide a separate 12 volt line to open and close it that turns on and off with the key. That way you wouldn't have to remember to throw a switch. High current 12 volt relays are plentiful. Just a suggestion.

Would it be possible to have the relay switch the ground of the RR? Then you wouldn't need a separate 12 volt supply to the relay coil. One of the accessory wires in the headlight bucket would work, assuming they are switched on and off with the key, which I think they are.
I like the way this guy thinks. How about we sit down with a few beers and design a VN750 JB and relay system that works. I got a soldering iron and some USN electronics training. Now I just need someone else's bike to test on hahahhaa

Mosfet R/R and relocated
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-22-2016, 12:55 PM
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I still think the JB gets a bad wrap, personally. I have 3 and all acted the same (one was brand new!). I swear there is another cause of these gremlins....

1986 Kawasaki Vulcan 750
NGK Iridium Plugs #7803/DPR7EIX-9
Duralast Gold ETX15 AGM Battery
Coastered & Shaved
TOC MCCTs
Metzeler ME880 [110/90-19, 170/80-15]
Balance Dampers Replaced
Tuxedo Mod
Rebuilt Forks w/ Progressive Springs
V&H Cruzers
VN750.com Grill Cover
Meanstreak Seat
Emgo 23-92411 Handlebars
MOSFET FH012AA R/R


1990 Kawasaki Vulcan 750

1998 Honda VFR800 FI

2014 Honda VFR800F

1989 Pontiac Firebird Formula 350
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-22-2016, 12:57 PM
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Accessory leads are NOT switched, they are hot all the time.

If You Are Not Sure If I Am Joking or Not....I AM !!Photos:
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