Pulsing coils (should I replace while replacing stator)? - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-19-2016, 12:22 AM Thread Starter
AMH
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Pulsing coils (should I replace while replacing stator)?

Guys,
I am working on replacing the Stator and thanks to you guys and this forum, it was suggested to replace the balancers as well while I have the engine out.

I noticed I have the Pulsing coil wires grommet that slides in with the stator wires and I was wondering how long do the pulsing coils or wires last? Should I replace them while I have the engine out?

Has anyone had those fail? I have a 2004 750 with 22k miles. the wires look good and they are tight at the coil end and the grommet end.

Thanks for all the help!
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-19-2016, 08:40 AM
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some have changed them as well, but its not needed normally. if you do anything to them, maybe the pickup coil mod (which moves them slightly closer to the flywheel/stator) to help with potential warm/hot starts.

2005 VN750

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-19-2016, 09:00 AM
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I had one fail on my old vulcan, was a bitch to track down the cause. was only a problem once up to operating temp but then would come and go resulting in a cylinder coming and going.

Not a bad thing to replace while you are in there however they can be replaced at anytime without a motor pull, just be careful as the wires like to snap off if you are too rough with them.

2000 ZRX1100 - Mad Max Black, and faster than I care to go.
1995 Vulcan 750 Bobberish project. - SOLD

"There are two opinions in this world MINE, and the wrong one. . . " - Jeremy Clarkson
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-19-2016, 05:28 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies ....when I look at them, I don't see any "Points" (similar to old distributor points) when a feeler gauge was used to set the gap. All I see on mine are 2 small black boxes and each box has 2 wires attached to them.

If the wires inside the stator cover snap off, then you would have to take the engine out and remove the cover, right? can you replace them without removing the engine?

So do I have a newer model bike that doesn't have points and I just have to replace the complete wires and the little black boxes.... am I just overlooking them?

Thanks!

Last edited by AMH; 02-19-2016 at 05:35 PM.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-19-2016, 05:54 PM
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No points, all electronic ignition. No, do not have to pull the cover to replace the pickup coils, only the smaller round one thats held on by 3 screws.

the pickup coils in stock placement are probably .040" from the magnets on the flywheel.. moving them in closer (0.020") improves the signal to the ingition box (igniter) which may help with warm starts, if your having problems with warm starts.

there is one pickup coil for each cylinder, and if you remove them, replace them back in their same place.. if you swap them, it wont run good (if at all) because the ignition timing will be way outta wack

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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-20-2016, 03:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMH View Post
Thanks for the replies ....when I look at them, I don't see any "Points" (similar to old distributor points) when a feeler gauge was used to set the gap. All I see on mine are 2 small black boxes and each box has 2 wires attached to them.

If the wires inside the stator cover snap off, then you would have to take the engine out and remove the cover, right? can you replace them without removing the engine?

So do I have a newer model bike that doesn't have points and I just have to replace the complete wires and the little black boxes.... am I just overlooking them?

Thanks!
First off, every year from 1985-2006 used the same pickup coils.. instead of breaker style points the pickup coils use magnetic pulses to generate the signals needed for the ICU.
I replaced my pickup coils by cutting off the the connector of both the new and old ones, pulled the old wires out twards the stator side, and fed new ones in from stator side to outside. once wires fed back through the gromet I then soldered the connector back on.

BE VERY CAREFUL TO GET THE COLOR STRIPES CORRECT OR THE ENGINE WON"T RUN RIGHT IF AT ALL.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-20-2016, 07:49 PM Thread Starter
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Hi slimvulcanrider,

Can you please explain how you managed to push the wire in through the grommet from inside the stator cover without removing the engine? I mean, I see the big rotor pulley where the wires exits from the grommet inside of the stator cover and connects to the 2 pickup coils. My grommet is a factory one and it just doesn't look like I can push/pull any of the wires through them without fully removing the stator cover. I just don't have the cash now to replace the pick up coils and want to assemble the engine back with a new stator.

Do you think the wire and coil replacement can be done without removing the engine if I decided to do this whenever they fail?

Thanks!
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-20-2016, 10:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMH View Post
Hi slimvulcanrider,

Can you please explain how you managed to push the wire in through the grommet from inside the stator cover without removing the engine? I mean, I see the big rotor pulley where the wires exits from the grommet inside of the stator cover and connects to the 2 pickup coils. My grommet is a factory one and it just doesn't look like I can push/pull any of the wires through them without fully removing the stator cover. I just don't have the cash now to replace the pick up coils and want to assemble the engine back with a new stator.

Do you think the wire and coil replacement can be done without removing the engine if I decided to do this whenever they fail?

Thanks!
i replaced mine without pulling the motor, I just cut the wires and soldered them and covered with heat shrink.

NOTE NOTE NOTE!!!! I did this VERY carefully with rags stuffed between where i was soldering and the engine as to not drop solder into the crank case...

delicate and time consuming but easier than a second engine pull.

this was the hacked job i found once i opened the cover and removed some electrical tape.

Don't make yours look like this



make yours look more like this (sorry for the bad photography but i was anxious to hit the road for a ride that day.)


2000 ZRX1100 - Mad Max Black, and faster than I care to go.
1995 Vulcan 750 Bobberish project. - SOLD

"There are two opinions in this world MINE, and the wrong one. . . " - Jeremy Clarkson

Last edited by IceCold4x4; 02-20-2016 at 10:50 PM.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-21-2016, 12:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMH View Post
Hi slimvulcanrider,

Can you please explain how you managed to push the wire in through the grommet from inside the stator cover without removing the engine? I mean, I see the big rotor pulley where the wires exits from the grommet inside of the stator cover and connects to the 2 pickup coils. My grommet is a factory one and it just doesn't look like I can push/pull any of the wires through them without fully removing the stator cover. I just don't have the cash now to replace the pick up coils and want to assemble the engine back with a new stator.

Do you think the wire and coil replacement can be done without removing the engine if I decided to do this whenever they fail?

Thanks!
by doing exactly this
Quote:
Originally Posted by IceCold4x4 View Post
i replaced mine without pulling the motor, I just cut the wires and soldered them and covered with heat shrink.

NOTE NOTE NOTE!!!! I did this VERY carefully with rags stuffed between where i was soldering and the engine as to not drop solder into the crank case...

delicate and time consuming but easier than a second engine pull.

this was the hacked job i found once i opened the cover and removed some electrical tape.

Don't make yours look like this



make yours look more like this (sorry for the bad photography but i was anxious to hit the road for a ride that day.)

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