Vulcan zero power - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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Where does this wire go?
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-11-2016, 06:51 PM Thread Starter
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Vulcan zero power

Well guys...I'm at a loss. The bike has always had intermittent starting problems where it would sometimes crank when the start button was pushed and sometimes it would not. The tail light would always light up though. Now I do not have any power to the start button, neither do I have power to the tail light, or anywhere else for that matter. All the fuses are fine. The battery is fully charged. The clutch safety switch is in. What I noticed is a very faint click (and I mean just barely audible) emanating from what I could deduce as either the junction box or the CDI box. This weekend I will clean all the contacts/use dielectric grease on all the connectors but I doubt that's the issue. I have not tried jumping the starter yet but I believe it would crank like that. I have only just learned how to use a multi meter to test resistance/voltage. Where should I start? What values should I be looking for? My only hypotheses so far are a bad junction box, a bad CDI, but also maybe a possible short in the starter button as the starting issue has always been present. Really would appreciate everyone's thoughts. Thank you.
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-11-2016, 06:59 PM
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1st thing to look at is the ignition switch (the actual switch, not the key cylinder). the switch lives under the key cylinder, and is black in color, circular, a little smaller than a hockey puck. search the forums here for instructions on how to disassemble and clean it.

after that, look up the 2 wire mod.. it bypasses the clutch switch and neutral switch to improve functioning of many things, including intermittant cranking that your describing. Again, this bypasses 2 safety switches, which will allow the bike to be cranked in gear, with the clutch release (which will cause the bike to jump forward). my bike had intermittant crank issue just like yours, and performing that mod cured it.. totally... for good.

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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-11-2016, 07:38 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you sir, you have given me hope! I will do both as soon as I wake up tomorrow since I do not get home from school till 11:30 tonight. If the ignition switch checks out like I'm hoping/I do the two-wire mod, I am curious to see if the headlight on my bike will turn on or not since I have a 1995, and read on the two-wire sticky that the gentlemen with 94/95 models had issues with their headlight.

Last edited by Nahian; 02-11-2016 at 07:54 PM.
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-12-2016, 09:02 AM
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Make sure your ground is good. These have been known to loosen or break.

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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-12-2016, 10:09 AM
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I'd have that battery load tested even if it is showing fully charged and absolutely check your Ground as knife said. It's probably something simple hiding from you. If that doesn't cure it the ignition switch is a good place to look.

Either of these things could cause your symptoms. You've gotten good advice so far. Go for the easy things first.




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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-18-2016, 11:04 AM Thread Starter
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I'm going to get the battery load tested today. I will check all the grounds once again. I also got to the key switch but cant take out the last few tabs because I am scared I will break them off. Below are the pictures of my key switch. The red arrows/circle are the tabs I cannot get to pop free. I agree that it is probably something very small that's preventing me from enjoying my bike. I am determined not to give up though! Thanks for all the help guys.
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-18-2016, 11:28 AM
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to make life easier, follow that wiring harness and disconnect it from the connector (under left side neck cover if I am remembering correctly). then you can take the whole thing in the house or garage or whatever, and not have to worry about loosing the small springs and balls that are in it. (well, not as much worry anyway).

it may also make getting them stubborn tabs easier to release, since you have more control, motion, accessability, ect. when its removed.


they will come un-done, just be patient with them. I think I used a small razor knife to slip under one end of the clip and gently pry them open

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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-18-2016, 11:34 AM
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Do you get dash lights when the key is turned on? If those light, key sw. is working at that moment, at least. Should also get the tailight with key on.

The first post made me think you need the Two-Wire Mod.

You could go to the yellow/red on the starter solenoid (under right sidecover), remove the yellow/red wire from the solenoid and apply 12v to that solenoid terminal to see if the starter can turn and to test the solenoid. Jumping the larger terminals only tests the starter and connection to the battery.

Have you checked the main fuse? (not sure if you're getting lights)

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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-18-2016, 01:44 PM Thread Starter
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Hey sprockster, I'm pretty sure even if I had the dash still on, I would not be getting any lights. I forgot to mention to everyone, this whole zero power thing happened while installing an LED tail light. Everything was fine and everything with the tail light hooked up (i just twisted the wires together/bike started) then after when I properly soldered the wires...tragedy struck and there was no power. I thought it had to be a fuse but after inspection all the fuses were alright, and I even swapped them with new ones. Still nothing. I really hope I didn't fry anything. The bike has been in project mode for too long. I was literally at the point of just welding new seat mounts/tabs and a speedo on it when this happened. Here was the bike in running condition minus air filters/miscellaneous bolts which I put all back together (this was like 1-2 years ago.) No dash, just a head light, tail light, it's probably illegal without signals but again this wasn't on the road yet.

Edit** Thanks for the tip michiganteddybear, I'll try that.
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-18-2016, 02:57 PM
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Errr. .. welding?

Not sure if it matters, but an old welder I knew always disconnected the battery when he welded on a vehicle. I took my speedo bracket off to weld it.

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