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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-05-2008, 06:55 PM Thread Starter
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Question NGK Plug Package Instructions

Ok, I know I'm about to broadcast exactly how ignorant I am, but in looking at the instructions on the NGK Spark Plug package (which i've stared at blankly for 15 minutes), there is a little diagram (see below).

I can tell that it has something to do with the torque, and the washers that come with the plug, but I have no idea exactly what they're trying to tell me. Who can tell me?
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Regards,
Pete in Gaithersburg, MD

1996, 6,000 miles
Relocated R/R, Corbin seat, Plexifairing III, Sunpro Voltmeter, Sears MF.
Xelement X840 Saddlebags

Last edited by PoggiPj; 08-05-2008 at 06:57 PM. Reason: lousy grammar again
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-05-2008, 07:08 PM
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I don't have a clue to what that all means, but then I never look at the instuctions anyway.

I think they are trying to say (even if it looks to me like they have it backwards..) - That new plugs , with a washer that has not been "crushed" is usualy screwed in till it hits the washer, then turned 1/2 to 2/3 a turn more...and that once the washer has been flattened, to only turn it 1/16 after the washer seats.

This is of course completely useless on the Vulcan as you can not see when the washer seats and can only go by feel.

New washers take a bit of energy to compress, so those without the right tools are supposed to use that as some kind of guide.. but:

This is the reason they make torque wrenches of course, so there is no guess work.

A simple point to think about here is the spark plug does not hold anything, so it only needs to be tight enough to so it , 1. does not leak combustion gases , and 2. Tight enough that it does not get loose from vibration.

In my 30 years of riding I never used a torque wrench to install a plug, but I know how easy it is to strip one out , so to all that have little or no experiance with using tools, I strongly suggest using a torque wrench.

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-05-2008, 08:36 PM
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There are several posts in the Verses about plug installation, and if you use a torque wrench, and depending on which post you read, torque them at 12, 13, or 14 ft lbs. There's probably something in Clymers too I'm sure....

I've never used a torque wrench for spark plugs either, and have never had a problem, however I have heard some horror stories.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-05-2008, 09:28 PM
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i never use a torque wrench on sparkplugs....but back when I was first learning to wrench i had broken a couple...and cross threaded a few more. the cross threaded issue.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-05-2008, 09:47 PM
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At least they aren't short reach plugs.

DT

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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-06-2008, 08:07 AM
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The way I see the pic......
  1. Start plug by hand (usually until hand tight).
  2. If there is no washer, tighten 1/16 turn after hand tight.
  3. If there is a washer, tighten 1/2 to 2/3 turn after hand tight.


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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-06-2008, 03:15 PM
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I've never noticed spark plugs came with instructions....
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-06-2008, 06:01 PM
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As someone who just went through cracking one off in the cylinder...

Thread by hand until you bottom out, a quick back out and return should verify that you have bottomed out; then about 1/2 turn when new (to crush the washer), 1/16 turn when re-installing, to torque it down. Don't try to muscle it, they break much easier than I expected!!

Chris
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-06-2008, 10:32 PM Thread Starter
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Very good - thanks for the warning Chris.

Regards,
Pete in Gaithersburg, MD

1996, 6,000 miles
Relocated R/R, Corbin seat, Plexifairing III, Sunpro Voltmeter, Sears MF.
Xelement X840 Saddlebags
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