Stator vs R/R - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-30-2008, 03:13 PM Thread Starter
 
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Question Stator vs R/R

So I've head the headlights out omen come to me from god.....I mean my bike. I bypassed teh diode/relay on that for now, but then i had my bike die while riding it. I've tested the Stator so far and these are the readings I've gotten:
Resistance on all 3 yellow wires was 0.6ohms (I know that this is 0.1ohms higher then the manual says, but they are all the same, and the other documents I have state that this is fine as well).
For AC-Volts I got above 50 on all, but they were all about 5 points off from eachother.

Do you folks think that is deffently the dreaded stator? I want to test the R/R (I have an odd suspision that this is what it actually is) but I have to drill the bolts out first so I'm waiting for my drill to charge.

When I first tested the battery I would get 12.1V and it would quickly drop when I tried to rev the engine or speed up or anything.

I charged the battery again, started at 12.9V, when I start it goes to 12.6V but if I rev the engine now it will climb (to like 12.7 or so)

TIA for all the help
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-30-2008, 03:59 PM
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You should be able to access the r/r connections without removing it, and it's a simple resistance check. I had a similar charging problem that was traced to the r/r being bad. Hope this helps.

87 vn750at least that is what the frame #'s say
"Squirrel Bike" aka Jersey

Rat bike with a good PR agent

shaved and coastered
2 into 1 exhaust
rear 170 and front 110
Relocated R/R
custom dash with voltmeter
Spitfire windscreen
Plutonium plugs
Recovered seat without "butt hammers"
More to come
Praise to the Parts Goddess Crobins for needed things

When someone tells me "Great minds think alike" all I can think is "You Pervert"
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-30-2008, 04:03 PM Thread Starter
 
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Dragon, Problem is that I want to move it anyways so I figured I'd save myself some work later on and do that first. And I hurt my wrist getting thrown around teh back of an ambulance, so I'm still nursing it back to health and can't bend it like I'd like to.

The fact that you had the similar charging problem, and it was the r/r helps me to feel a bit better. I'm really hoping thats all it is.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-30-2008, 04:05 PM
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No its not the stator, the readings that you stated indicates a GREAT operating stator. So test the R/R and get it replaced before it does fry the stator. Good luck.

Peace

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-30-2008, 04:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kkidfall View Post
Dragon, Problem is that I want to move it anyways so I figured I'd save myself some work later on and do that first. And I hurt my wrist getting thrown around teh back of an ambulance, so I'm still nursing it back to health and can't bend it like I'd like to.
That's why I have kids help in the garage whenever possible (young and flexible and they bounce better than I do) I'm also leaving the old one where it is and relocating the new one, less work.

Let's hope it wasn't your throttle wrist and that it heals quickly so you can get back to riding.

87 vn750at least that is what the frame #'s say
"Squirrel Bike" aka Jersey

Rat bike with a good PR agent

shaved and coastered
2 into 1 exhaust
rear 170 and front 110
Relocated R/R
custom dash with voltmeter
Spitfire windscreen
Plutonium plugs
Recovered seat without "butt hammers"
More to come
Praise to the Parts Goddess Crobins for needed things

When someone tells me "Great minds think alike" all I can think is "You Pervert"
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-30-2008, 05:02 PM Thread Starter
 
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Well my R/R just completely failed the test! A3 and G are shot! A3 would give me readings all over the place when I should have had infinity and G just wouldn't interact with anything! This is probably the best news I have ever heard! Thank you Wkrizen!

Dragon, if I wasn't the kid myself I would deff have them helping! It's my clutch wrist that got injured, still makes it hard to change gears, but I'm pretty sure it's only a strain.

Ride safe!

Last edited by kkidfall; 07-30-2008 at 05:03 PM. Reason: probably helps to tell what the readings where
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-30-2008, 08:33 PM
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Hey, just saw your email and was going to respond, but thought I'd check your thread first - that's *great* news! The r/r is a relatively cheap and absolutely easy replacement, esp if you relocate. Also glad to hear that you were able to bypass the diode and get your headlight back. Things are looking up!!

C
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-30-2008, 09:42 PM
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Great news! Of the possible bad outcomes, the RR is definitely not the worst case scenario, pretty easy fix. Hope you heal up quick.

Chris
Wayne, NJ
1989 VN750-A5
VROC #27781
-Replaced/Fused Stator & Replaced/Relocated R/R (15K mi.)
-MF Battery
-De-Goated/Re-goated
-Coastered
-Splines Lubed
-Stebel Nautilus Horn
-AutoMeter 2" VOM
-Silverstar Headlight
-Refinished Gauge Rings and Mirrors(Flat Black)
-Refinished Swingarm/Lubed Pivots
-K&S Turn Signals Clear Cover/Amber Bulb
-Kenda Kruz 110/90-19 front 170/80-15 rear
-Clear Alternatives LED tail light
-Plexifairing III
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-30-2008, 09:58 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks Crobins and Chris! I already got the R/R off, now i just have to buy a bracket for the new one that will be here friday or saturday!

Crobins, I'll take the JB if you still have it as I know that was that problem for sure now, I'll email you about it though.

thanks for the help everyone!
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-02-2008, 09:46 AM
 
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What is the R/R?
Newbie here if you cant tell, and got to learn all the accronyms. Is there a list of accronyms BTW?
David
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