Charging issue - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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Where does this wire go?
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-21-2015, 06:27 PM Thread Starter
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Charging issue

Hey guys, I haven't been on here for a while, partly because I wasn't riding much, and partly because I wasn't having any problems. Well, now I am doing both.

Trying to figure out of it's the stator or R/R that has gone bad. Fully charged battery was indicating over 13 volts. Start the bike, and it was showing under 12. Revving up to 3-4K made no difference. So started running through the tests. The stator grounding test gave me a reading of OL on all three leads. Resistance between each lead was giving me 13.5-14.5 on the 200 setting on the multimeter. Next tested the R/R with the bike off (can't remember if supposed to do this with bike on or off) and got OL on every single combination of lead to lead checks.

So my conclusion is that the R/R is what's bad. But can you confirm the readings I got for the stator are OK? I haven't checked the output voltage yet as I need my wife to be home to turn up the throttle.

'95 Vulcan 750 - Purchased 8/2003 w/ 21,124 miles - passed 50K 9/3/15
* VN900 seat * Daytona handlebar * Converted ACCTs to MCCTs * Relocated R/R * Drilled clutch basket * Coastered * Repainted *
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-21-2015, 08:35 PM
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Test AC voltage between all 3 legs of the stator. You should see 30-70v or so depending on RPM. You've determined it's not grounding out, and resistances are good, but not that it's output is good. You are already aware, but this will tell you 100%

The R/R you should be doing diode tests. Follow this. It will at least confirm it's the R/R.

https://www.electrosport.com/media/p...ng-diagram.pdf
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1986 Kawasaki Vulcan 750
NGK Iridium Plugs #7803/DPR7EIX-9
Duralast Gold ETX15 AGM Battery
Coastered & Shaved
TOC MCCTs
Metzeler ME880 [110/90-19, 170/80-15]
Balance Dampers Replaced
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VN750.com Grill Cover
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Emgo 23-92411 Handlebars
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1990 Kawasaki Vulcan 750

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Last edited by thtanner; 11-21-2015 at 08:37 PM.
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-24-2015, 06:35 PM Thread Starter
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Alright, I'll check that next, and do the diode test if it passes.

Thanks.

'95 Vulcan 750 - Purchased 8/2003 w/ 21,124 miles - passed 50K 9/3/15
* VN900 seat * Daytona handlebar * Converted ACCTs to MCCTs * Relocated R/R * Drilled clutch basket * Coastered * Repainted *

Last edited by DaveT319; 11-24-2015 at 06:38 PM.
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-05-2015, 03:07 PM Thread Starter
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Turns out it IS the stator. Putting out 3, 10, and 14 volts. Crap! Guess I'll be doing the stator mod then, cuz I do NOT want to take the time and effort to drop the engine again. Going to buy gcextreme's stator plate and do the mod next week. Now just need to buy a stator, and still need to test the R/R to confirm it's dead. What a pain.

'95 Vulcan 750 - Purchased 8/2003 w/ 21,124 miles - passed 50K 9/3/15
* VN900 seat * Daytona handlebar * Converted ACCTs to MCCTs * Relocated R/R * Drilled clutch basket * Coastered * Repainted *
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-05-2015, 09:16 PM
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You can go with my alternator mod if you don't care about keeping it looking stock check it out in the projects and build section its a sticky

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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-06-2015, 09:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveT319 View Post
Turns out it IS the stator. Putting out 3, 10, and 14 volts. Crap! Guess I'll be doing the stator mod then, cuz I do NOT want to take the time and effort to drop the engine again. Going to buy gcextreme's stator plate and do the mod next week. Now just need to buy a stator, and still need to test the R/R to confirm it's dead. What a pain.
I would replace the R/R too.

02 honda sabre 1100
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-08-2015, 06:38 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by niterider View Post
I would replace the R/R too.
I was thinking that too. Since the other tests I have done already seemed to indicate it was toast, might as well go ahead and put a new one in.

'95 Vulcan 750 - Purchased 8/2003 w/ 21,124 miles - passed 50K 9/3/15
* VN900 seat * Daytona handlebar * Converted ACCTs to MCCTs * Relocated R/R * Drilled clutch basket * Coastered * Repainted *
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-08-2015, 06:43 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by new rider 9984 View Post
You can go with my alternator mod if you don't care about keeping it looking stock check it out in the projects and build section its a sticky
Very clever project, but I think I prefer the internal one. Thanks for the suggestion though.

'95 Vulcan 750 - Purchased 8/2003 w/ 21,124 miles - passed 50K 9/3/15
* VN900 seat * Daytona handlebar * Converted ACCTs to MCCTs * Relocated R/R * Drilled clutch basket * Coastered * Repainted *
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-08-2015, 07:42 PM
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a good upgrade since your going to replace the stock R/R is to upgrade to a mosfet type. they are more effecient and run cooler than the stock.

this is a good all in one kit for the upgrade
Shindengen MOSFET FH020AA Regulator Rectifier Kit Replaces FH012AA | eBay

2005 VN750

Sold 11-27-17
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-08-2015, 09:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michiganteddybear View Post
a good upgrade since your going to replace the stock R/R is to upgrade to a mosfet type. they are more effecient and run cooler than the stock.

this is a good all in one kit for the upgrade
Shindengen MOSFET FH020AA Regulator Rectifier Kit Replaces FH012AA | eBay
x2

Have the same kit on mine, it's been working great, well worth it and not hard to wire up.

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