Vulcan 750 bevel gear removal to fix Stator - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-02-2015, 11:14 AM Thread Starter
AMH
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Vulcan 750 bevel gear removal to fix Stator

Hello,
I have to change the Stator on my 2004 Vulcan 750 this winter using my Clymer manual. Many riders been able to just Tilt the engine to the right by removing the right side hand frame, just to have enough clearance to remove the stator cover. I'm really nervous about removing the front bevel gear and was wondering if I'm going to mess up the clutch lever mechanism (where the cable attaches) and once I take it off, will I be able to put it back. It looks like just 7 screws holding the housing. should I take the rear tire /final drive off , so the drive shaft is lose so it doesn't push against the bevel gear?

Thanks in advance for the help!
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-03-2015, 12:39 AM
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You do NOT need to remove the front bevel gearcase to get the engine out of the frame. I would however, remove the front manifold, if you can get the bolts loose. All you need is something big and solid under the engine. I used a homemade wooden dolly with casters, but if you are doing it on a smooth concrete floor, a cinder block, or a few 4x4s attached together, pretty much any kind of solid support that will slide or roll, and comes up almost to the bottom of the engine with the bike on the centerstand will work. You then use shims between that and the engine to get it just right, where the mounting bolts will slide right out, then wiggle the engine out the right side, bringing the front out first. The main issue will be the shift shaft. There is just barely enough room to disengage the gearcase from the driveshaft without banging the shifter shaft into the frame, but it does fit. That's the reason for having the engine solidly supported, and not perched on a floor jack where it will move around. I also found an easy way to remove and reinstall the airbox and carb elbows if you plan on keeping the stock intake system. It involves a few extra steps, but you don't have to fight with it.

This is how I originally got my engine out, with a one gallon paint bucket and a magazine on top. It was nearly a perfect fit. I used tapered wooden shims to line everything up perfectly so the bolts came right out. I then moved it to the wooden dolly, which I couldn't find when I first pulled the engine. If you use a paint bucket, make sure you get it in the right place, so the engine won't fall off while you are moving it around. The engine is top heavy.







Notice the gearcase is still in place. While I had the engine out, I went ahead and pulled out the driveshaft and put plenty of moly on the splines, on both ends.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike
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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-03-2015, 08:14 AM
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I left the bevel case on mine too, it's easier to slip the shaft back on the splines if the rear is off, but it can be done with the rear in place. Left the throttle cables and carbs on, the front manifold too, but the engine never left the frame.

There's a floor jack under the engine also.



If you want to remove the bevel case, as long as you don't disassemble the clutch lever shaft and pinion inside the case, you should be fine. There's a big spring and a dog gear that falls out when the case is pulled, then there's a long rod that should be pulled from the engine, so you don't bend it.

2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
Repair Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/mj7z81..._Catalogue.pdf

Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf

Last edited by Spockster; 11-03-2015 at 08:18 AM.
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-03-2015, 08:43 AM
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When going back I remove the rear wheel, makes easier for me. I usually work alone.

02 honda sabre 1100
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-04-2015, 06:15 AM
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I have had the front bevel gearcase off before, a few years ago. I found it difficult to reinstall with the engine in the frame, because there is a fairly strong spring behind it, and you have to push hard on it to force it back against the engine, line up the output shaft with the U-joint, line up the bolt holes, and hold the gasket in place, all with 2 hands. I ruined the first gasket, and had to get another new one. I used Permatex spray gasket tack on the last one, and it stayed in place. The gasket is really narrow in places, and is easily dislodged while dealing with the spring pressure and trying to get everything lined up at the same time. The only thing I would have done different as far as removing the engine is remove the front exhaust manifold.

If it will fit, a transmission jack might work well. I loaned mine to someone a long time ago, and never got it back. If the driveshaft disengages from the final drive while removing the engine, don't worry about it. I pulled mine out anyway to lube the rear splines. I did have the spring fall out of the coupler, I had to fish it out with a piece of clotheshanger wire. I put a lot of moly paste in the coupler, which held the spring in place while I reinstalled the shaft. If you remove the swing arm boot, make sure you reinstall it before putting the engine back. It has to go back on with the molded in numbers facing outside.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-04-2015, 11:15 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you all for the replies. I will attempt to start taking things off over the next few weeks and plan on leaving the bevel gear on but will take the rear wheel off and final gear off.
Wish me luck!!!
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-04-2015, 11:32 PM
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I planned on doing a nice slow job on mine too, over several weeks. It wound up taking almost a year. I took everything apart, pulled the engine, and ordered the new parts I needed, and by that time riding season had arrived (in AZ winter is riding season) I have several other bikes, so I quit work on the Vulcan, and rode the others. I finally got it back together just in time for this years riding season.

It's not a bad job if you don't rush it. If you haven't done it before, you need to put some thought into everything you do. There are several places where it would be easy to mess up if you don't think it over.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-05-2015, 10:24 AM Thread Starter
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By the way....I forgot to ask. Some Vulcan owners are suggesting to change the engine Balancer-dampers too while you are doing the stator, but I just didn't want to go that deep and mess with the engine. My bike is a 2004 Vulcan 750 with 22000 miles, garage kept, and changed oil once a year and other than stator , engine is in great shape and no vibration and the oil screen is always clean when I change my oil.

In your opinion, do I need to worry about dampers now?

Thanks again guys...you all have been a great help!
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-05-2015, 11:04 AM
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with engine out to replace the stator, your almost at the balancers. I think its only smart to do it while in there.

its only 1 more bolt if I recall correctly

2005 VN750

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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-05-2015, 11:52 AM
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Yep, just one more bolt, and it's left-hand thread.

The damper gear has a tiny bit of play on the bushings, even with new bushings. I replaced mine, but the gear was no tighter. Sent my old ones to Doc for his bike.

Be sure you understand the three alignments that need to be correct for the damper, there's another post this week where we discussed this, along with a couple of pics. Always ask when not sure, did mine twice because I goofed one of the alignments.

that other thread: https://www.vn750.com/forum/31-engine...acement-3.html

2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
Repair Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/mj7z81..._Catalogue.pdf

Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf

Last edited by Spockster; 11-05-2015 at 12:18 PM.
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