White Wire Burnt. R&R - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Electrical
Where does this wire go?
Includes Electrical mods, Lights, Stator,
Rectifier, Diagrams, etc

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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-22-2008, 07:00 PM Thread Starter
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*Diagnose The Electrical*

"This had a different title but I'm hopeing for some new insight."

I found the white wire "Burn't" at connection. (Rectifier). I'm following a few threads that sound the same as what I'm seeing. But I found the white wire Burnt. (bike at home today, unvoluntarily cheating!) Totaly frustrated. 1 Day down, got a book on CD. Yeah, I'm expecting a few more down.

Thoughts!?

Last edited by kanuck69; 07-26-2008 at 06:30 PM. Reason: Want updates
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-22-2008, 07:32 PM
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it must have a short somewhere... that wire runs to the ign. switch, u'll have to trace it back

1990 Kawasaki Vulcan 750

.... slightly modified
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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-22-2008, 08:29 PM Thread Starter
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-23-2008, 09:25 PM
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Mine burnt the white wire as well. Hence the rewire as it took the Molex connector with it.
The battery and R/R was my problem. The white wire is the battery sense wire and mine was drawing too much current when charging. That's what caused part of the problem. The other half was that my R/R, though working, was way out of spec and contributed to the over current. Replacing the connector and later the R/R solved my problem.

Jim W
93 VN 750 "Ursula"
Moved R/R 08Sep06
R/R rewire 17Feb07
New R/R, Installed 14Jun08
New Stator installed 10 Jun08
Maintenance Free Battery 12Jan08
21480 Miles
VROC #8542
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-23-2008, 09:39 PM Thread Starter
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Food for thought. Lots to digest.

it must have a short somewhere... that wire runs to the ign.

battery sense wire.

????

Last edited by kanuck69; 07-23-2008 at 09:42 PM.
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-24-2008, 12:41 AM
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Actualy the white wire runs first to to the starter relay/ battery...Its a bullet conector behind the right side cover. Check for bad insulation, poor connection, and posably a bad ground at the battery or frame beside the battery.
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-24-2008, 09:25 AM
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Along with the checks mentioned previously, I would also check the voltages coming off the stator. I have seen, and been told, that one way to help reduce the possibility of over amperage is to place 20Amp fuses on the lines coming from the stator. If memory serves correctly this is a 15Amp system so the 20's will give you a degree of protection to the rest of your electrical components. Additionally this may help to keep you from having to replace a stator, which is no fun at all. I'm in the process of doing that right now. It's not difficult work, but my baby is down and I'm forced to ride on four wheels. Soon...very soon.

I'm the pedifamilious! BONAFIDE!
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-26-2008, 01:25 PM Thread Starter
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All wires & connections look good. (except for the burnt connection @ the R&R of the white wire previously mentioned)
OK, Here's what I've got. The reading off the stator holding at 4000rpm. Is as follows, 48, 56, 60. These numbers flux a bit, but this seems to be the average.
An ohm test through the stator came in at .8 The test through the wires between the stator & the R&R came in at .4 & I'm not entirely sure how to test the R&R. I've read alot through the verses & posts & I'm just not getting it. I think I'm missing something. At this point I'm guessing at least I'll be replacing the R&R. Thoughts!?
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-26-2008, 08:30 PM
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To test the R/R you need to take the readings directly off of the flat connector post on the R/R. You would be wise to get the service manual for your year bike, if you haven't already. In it will be a chart for the values and test pattern for your R/R. I have a '99 so mine might be different, I couldn't say for certain. This is also true for the stator test procedure and values. That is unless someone here can scan the chart and diagram of the R/R post identification. Can anyone help the man out?
Don't replace your R/R if you can help it. They run about $100-$120. Make sure the one you have is bad first. Just my opinion.

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Last edited by hosedragger105; 07-26-2008 at 08:33 PM.
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-26-2008, 10:00 PM Thread Starter
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I'm a firm believer in recycleing parts. Also, I've got a copy of the free pdf manual. I'm just not understanding what I'm reading. Ever get so frustrated that black could be white & vice versa & you have no clue. I'll pull & replace anything. Tracking problems is not my strong suit.

In other words, I've got the info to do it, it's just confusing me.
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