2001 Vulcan 750 (NEW LED BULB) - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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Where does this wire go?
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-10-2015, 06:36 PM Thread Starter
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2001 Vulcan 750 (NEW LED BULB)

So I got a new LED headlight, it's a 3 prong just like my old one. I installed it and it fit great, when I turned the bike on. I noticed the LED light blinks when idling.. Doesn't appear to when high beams are on, and or when RPM's are high. I also noticed the Headlamp light on my dash (between handle bars) is coming on randomly. Usually when RPM's are high.. Seems to basically be connected to the flickering maybe?

Any ideas on how to fix this with the new bulb? Thanks!

Last edited by Ryeloc; 10-10-2015 at 06:38 PM. Reason: Add to subject line
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-10-2015, 06:59 PM
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the led bulb is confusing the reserve lighting unit (a device that detects a failure in the headlamp, and forces the working filament to be the only one to light).

I believe (but may be wrong), the only way to fix the issue would be to bypass the unit.

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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-10-2015, 10:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michiganteddybear View Post
the led bulb is confusing the reserve lighting unit (a device that detects a failure in the headlamp, and forces the working filament to be the only one to light).

I believe (but may be wrong), the only way to fix the issue would be to bypass the unit.
He may need to add a resistor to simulate the resistance of the OEM bulb.

Test resistance of both bulbs, subtract difference = resistor you need (super basic explanation of it anyways).

(yes, this eliminates the 'power efficient' part of the LEDs, but you still get the additional brightness)

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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-10-2015, 11:32 PM
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Seems to me that the bypass would be the best option by far. The 15-20 watt savings (assuming you went with the 40 watt LED) could be very useful for auxiliary lighting. You could even tie in a set of LED running lights to get you back up to the stock wattage and skip the bypass.

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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-11-2015, 12:21 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks everyone for the input,

So I did some research.. and I found the following. Now I am not a "electrical engineer" but I am assuming my research is correct. I did this research thtanner said I may need to add resistors.

So I did this research... The reserve lighting device is triggering from the low beams and is triggering the high beams to flicker. So I did the math, and found the following information..

Currently the OEM 55watts/60watts 12Volts. The low beams would be 55 watts 12 voltage 4.583 amps 2.6181 ohms

The LED is 2000 LUMENS MAX.. I'm assuming it uses 2/3 on low, which is approximately 1,333.3333. LED bulbs use approximately 60lumens, per 1 watt. This works out to approximately 22.22222 WATTS.

So with this the old bulb uses 55watts and the new bulb is using about 22watts.So 22watts, 12volts, 1.851amps, 6.48ohms.

So with the LED bulb the OHM's are actually higher. So I would assume we need to actually lower the ohm's load? The only way I can think of doing this is running a parallel circuit on the bulb? This may not even resolve the issue! I don't know...

Bypassing the reserve lighting device is sounded better by the minute.. Can I get some more input on this issue?

Also if I choose to bypass the Reserve Lighting Device, how exactly do I do this. I want my high to still work.

Thanks guys!

Last edited by Ryeloc; 10-11-2015 at 12:45 AM.
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-11-2015, 12:51 AM
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If you do a search on the forums you'll find previous discussion on bypassing.

Out of curiosity, how much was the bulb? I've been eyeing an Opt7 on Amazon that's $55 for a 40 watt 3500 lumen unit.

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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-11-2015, 01:14 AM Thread Starter
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I paid 20$ for it, like 5 weeks ago on jbcycles. got it on a weekly sale deal but it's only 2000MAX lumens
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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-11-2015, 09:16 AM
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Quote:
So I would assume we need to actually lower the ohm's load?
That seems opposite of the usual adding resisitors to simulate the load that the system will see. Such as adding load resistors to make LED turn signals work on a stock flasher (not the best way to do that either).

See what others think about this.... I think the Blue Wire Bypass might cure the problem and also allow the power savings of the LED. The question would be, .. Does the Blue Wire Bypass also bypass the RLU?

https://www.vn750.com/forum/19-electr...relay-mod.html

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Last edited by Spockster; 10-11-2015 at 09:21 AM.
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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-11-2015, 09:25 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spockster View Post
That seems opposite of the usual adding resisitors to simulate the load that the system will see. Such as adding load resistors to make LED turn signals work on a stock flasher (not the best way to do that either).

See what others think about this.... I think the Blue Wire Bypass might cure the problem and also allow the power savings of the LED. The question would be, .. Does the Blue Wire Bypass also bypass the RLU?

https://www.vn750.com/forum/19-electr...relay-mod.html
I believe bypassing the RLU is what needs to be done, I think I have to run a jumper from the blu | blu/yel or blu | blu/ora I'm not sure exactly though. I only found one article about this and the guy was guessing seemed like. Havent found anything on vn750 about bypassing the RLU.
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-11-2015, 09:46 AM
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If you don't have a lot of trouble unlocking the blue wire on the 10-pin plug, that bypass should be quick and easy to try, and reverse if it doesn't help.

Not sure how to do the RLU bypass yet.

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