Stator replacement - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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Where does this wire go?
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post #1 of 55 (permalink) Old 10-10-2015, 06:22 PM Thread Starter
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Stator replacement

Has anyone replaced the stator and not removed the bevel gear housing? I am replacing one (stator) now and doing the rear tire at the same time. I am curious as to I can get enough slack from the drive shaft to enable me to "tilt" the engine enough to pull the stator? I like to moly as much of the splines on the drive shaft as I can when ever I change a tire so I might try it just to see anyway. But, no need to reinvent the wheel and if it can't be done I don't want to wast time. If no one has tried it I will post how it goes.

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post #2 of 55 (permalink) Old 10-10-2015, 07:01 PM
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I wouldnt be afraid of removing the front bevel gear housing (I have done it). only a few bolts to hold it on. no major oil loss when its removed either.

rear bevel gear (what has to be taken off to lube the splines) is pretty easy as well.

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post #3 of 55 (permalink) Old 10-10-2015, 09:15 PM
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I think others have done it. If you have the rear off you can just pull the drive shaft out completely to give you space.

That being said it is easy to remove, just take note when removing it as some stuff can fall out.

1986 Kawasaki Vulcan 750
NGK Iridium Plugs #7803/DPR7EIX-9
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TOC MCCTs
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VN750.com Grill Cover
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post #4 of 55 (permalink) Old 10-10-2015, 09:49 PM
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I did it without removing the bevel gear. It's real easy to slip the shaft back onto the bevel splines with the rear gear off. It's harder to just get the rubber boot back over the bevel case.

Also did the engine tilt, didn't even unhook the throttle/choke cables or remove the carbs, but I did the earshave and coasters at the same time. The airbox being gone helps a lot. I used a floor jack, ratchet straps, and also a large wood mallet between the frame and front head to hold the space while doing the stator and balancer.

Have a few pics if you need them.

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post #5 of 55 (permalink) Old 10-10-2015, 09:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thtanner View Post
If you have the rear off you can just pull the drive shaft out completely to give you space.
Driveshaft will only come out the front. But it will slide back far enough to come off the bevel splines.
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post #6 of 55 (permalink) Old 10-11-2015, 10:32 AM Thread Starter
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Great. I managed to get it done as well. I haven't done the ear shave so the air box was a pain but I was able to leave everything attached but the carb boots, clutch cable and upper radiator hose (that gave some additional room to move the air box). rolling the rear wheel back a little seemed easier than making a bevel case gasket (which I forgot to order). Now on to reassembly. The forward splines look a little dry anyway so I am glad I pulled the drive shaft.
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post #7 of 55 (permalink) Old 10-11-2015, 01:35 PM
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the forward spline require very little lubrication.. basically just enough to keep them from rusting together.

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post #8 of 55 (permalink) Old 10-11-2015, 04:00 PM
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I have. But I have to remove the rear tire when going back together.

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post #9 of 55 (permalink) Old 08-05-2016, 09:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spockster View Post
I did it without removing the bevel gear. It's real easy to slip the shaft back onto the bevel splines with the rear gear off. It's harder to just get the rubber boot back over the bevel case.

Also did the engine tilt, didn't even unhook the throttle/choke cables or remove the carbs, but I did the earshave and coasters at the same time. The airbox being gone helps a lot. I used a floor jack, ratchet straps, and also a large wood mallet between the frame and front head to hold the space while doing the stator and balancer.

Have a few pics if you need them.


Just ordered all parts for stator replacement and spline lube. I'd love to see the pics you mention here. I'm planning a TuxedoMod but I'm doing it off-bike to lower chances/anxiety of debris problems. So the engine tilt sounds right up my alley. Thanks!
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post #10 of 55 (permalink) Old 08-05-2016, 10:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mick.park View Post
Just ordered all parts for stator replacement and spline lube. I'd love to see the pics you mention here. I'm planning a TuxedoMod but I'm doing it off-bike to lower chances/anxiety of debris problems. So the engine tilt sounds right up my alley. Thanks!
Here ya go, in no particular order. Let me know if you have any questions.

Jack placement allows sliding engine to the outside. Strap allows tilting forward/back and catches engine if it slips off the jack.


Strap runs between starter and oil filter, but under the water hose port, so it can't slide up.


Right side - jack placement with 2x6 wood block, strap under water hose neck.


Rerun ... wider shot


Mallet holds correct angle on the engine for clearance on the frame. Had nothing holding the mallet, good chance of bending the shifter shaft if the mallet and engine drops.


Left side, full tilt. Note: Balance damper gear is installed incorrectly on the balance weight. It's 180 off. Largest post of the weight belongs with the smaller hole of the gear, not the largest hole. She shook like crazy and I did the whole job again!


Left side, full tilt, mallet holding angle, strap from top frame tube, behind bevel gear then under and on to the front.
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Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
Repair Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/mj7z81..._Catalogue.pdf

Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf

Last edited by Spockster; 08-05-2016 at 01:40 PM.
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