Stator R/R and Battery replaced - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-13-2008, 03:03 PM Thread Starter
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Stator R/R and Battery replaced

Yesterday I was able to complete the job, and this is one happy Vulcan. Getting the engine off of the rear motor mounts was nowhere near as hard as getting it back on.... That bottom one is a PITA for sure. Also, one thing that was left out of the write ups that I read was that you should not let go of the stator cover once you start pulling it off. For those of you wondering, it's because the magnetism between the parts pulls the cover right back onto the engine. One thing I did find is that the stator had been replaced at least once before, as evidenced by the aftermarket sealer on the seals where the wires leave the case, and various tool marks exactly where they would be had it been done before. At the end of the day, it was not a terribly difficult job (I'd give it a 7 out of 10), but you have to be motivated to get it done, cause it does take focus. Not one single skinned knuckle, crushed finger, or cut hand through the whole process. Here are some pics, including a discovery of a cig butt down between the cases that lends credence to my thinking that this had been done before. BTW - Electrosport is totally out of stock for the RR on the VN750, so I ordered a high performance one from regulatorrectifier.com. I am very pleased with the product and the service I received.













By the time I started reassmbling, I was not thinking about pics, so did not take any. I was in the frame of mind to get it together and running. Fortunately we all know what the bike looks like when fully assembled....

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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-13-2008, 03:40 PM
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Nice pics. Looks like it is about time to replace that oil drain bolt...the corners seem to be rounding off some.

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-14-2008, 07:57 PM Thread Starter
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Despite the pictures, the bolt head is in pretty good shape. My wrenches and sockets fit on justas well as any other. I think the PO before me or before him may have rounded the edges some, but the meat is OK. At this point if that's the only thing that goes wrong I'll be happy.

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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-15-2008, 01:25 AM
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It looks like I am going to have to replace my stator as well. I have a '99. I recently replaced the R/R with an OEM one I verified (by multi-meter) to be good, but still seem to have the same problems I had before. (Battery not holding charge, some backfiring) I have the service manual and will be testing the stator tomorrow morning sometime. If I determine that the stator is bad, what kind of time frames am I looking at in getting access to it and reassembly? Are there any special tools needed or will your standard set of metric wrenches and sockets be sufficient? Also, when I pulled the outer generator cover off I had a small amount of engine oil spill out. Is this normal or do I have some other concerns going along with my electrical one? Any insight you have would be helpful. Thanks

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-15-2008, 02:17 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hosedragger105 View Post
It looks like I am going to have to replace my stator as well. I have a '99. I recently replaced the R/R with an OEM one I verified (by multi-meter) to be good, but still seem to have the same problems I had before. (Battery not holding charge, some backfiring) I have the service manual and will be testing the stator tomorrow morning sometime. If I determine that the stator is bad, what kind of time frames am I looking at in getting access to it and reassembly? Are there any special tools needed or will your standard set of metric wrenches and sockets be sufficient? Also, when I pulled the outer generator cover off I had a small amount of engine oil spill out. Is this normal or do I have some other concerns going along with my electrical one? Any insight you have would be helpful. Thanks
I watched, helped, listened and learned as about a dozen folks replaced one at last year's reunion. It was an all day affair (plus a bit the next day) by some experts that had done it before and KNEW what they were doing. I know it's been done many times by a lot of folks but I wouldn't look forward to it myself. YMMV.

A friend of mine recently had to replace his on an '06 with barely 12K miles. He cut the left frame and had the new stator in and done in about 20 minutes. He spent about 2-3 months mulling over just how to do it (or if, actually) but after he had a plan for reassembly it took about an hour to cut the frame and put it back together. Total of less than 2 hours and now he could in his words, "Change the stator on the side of the road if needed."

I was ready to do the same to mine just in case I did need a new stator at some future date but then decided to just wait and see if I would ever really need to. But it is a fairly easy pre-emptive fix and if the staor ever did need replacing you are already prepared.

In the meantime I've sold mine. But it worked for my buddy and seems like it would be the thing to do, it is so easy, and makes ALL future stator changes much easier and faster.

jeff
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-15-2008, 08:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arkjeff View Post
I watched, helped, listened and learned as about a dozen folks replaced one at last year's reunion. It was an all day affair (plus a bit the next day) by some experts that had done it before and KNEW what they were doing. I know it's been done many times by a lot of folks but I wouldn't look forward to it myself. YMMV.

A friend of mine recently had to replace his on an '06 with barely 12K miles. He cut the left frame and had the new stator in and done in about 20 minutes. He spent about 2-3 months mulling over just how to do it (or if, actually) but after he had a plan for reassembly it took about an hour to cut the frame and put it back together. Total of less than 2 hours and now he could in his words, "Change the stator on the side of the road if needed."

I was ready to do the same to mine just in case I did need a new stator at some future date but then decided to just wait and see if I would ever really need to. But it is a fairly easy pre-emptive fix and if the staor ever did need replacing you are already prepared.

In the meantime I've sold mine. But it worked for my buddy and seems like it would be the thing to do, it is so easy, and makes ALL future stator changes much easier and faster.

jeff
Does your buddy still ahve his bike??? If so, can you get him to post picks of his frame mod so we have an idea of how he pieced it back together??
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-15-2008, 10:28 AM Thread Starter
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What takes the time is all of the prep work. If you already did an ear shave then that will save some time dealing with the air box. The problem is that the frame is poorly designed with regard to being able to access the main stator cover. The bottom bolts are tucked nicely beneath the frame rail, thus preventing you from removing them unless you move the engine around. I spent anywhere form 30 - 90 minutes a night over the course of 3 or 4 nights doing the "prep" work of removing everything. Once I had all the parts cleared and the engine dropped it was actually pretty smooth. The actual stator replacement time was less than 1 hour, which included pulling the cover, removing the old stator, cleaning the hell out of the cover and removing the old gasket, swapping out the oil seal, bolting up the new stator, and getting it back on. Saturday morning I started at 8 putting the bike back together (stator already on and engine back in the frame). She was fired up by 10:15 and on the road by 10:45.

As far as oil goes, it loves to hide in little places, and even though I originally drained it overnight, there was still some seepage whenever I would shift the engine around. Same with coolant. Not a lot, but enough that you should keep plenty of paper on the floor to catch it. The only other tips I can offer are to definintely NOT reinstall the bevel gear case until the engine is remounted, and use some RTV to hold the new bevel gasket on the engine side instead of on the bevel gear itself. I had to pull that damn thing off probably 4 times to get it just right.

After reading the above post, I wish I had access to the tools to do the cut and re-weld. That sounds like the ticket.....

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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-15-2008, 11:18 AM
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I did the Stator Coil Resistance Measurement and the Stator Coil Installation Test, by the service manual, about 30 minutes ago. It's offical. My stator has a short and I will be joining the ranks of those who have replaced it themselves. I will try to do some pictures while I am in the process of doing the job as to enhance the knowledge and experience base available for those who follow in our footsteps. First I gotta order the things I need to do this right. I'll include that parts list on future posts. Wish me luck. Thanks for the help so far.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-16-2008, 02:06 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slimvulcanrider View Post
Does your buddy still ahve his bike??? If so, can you get him to post picks of his frame mod so we have an idea of how he pieced it back together??
Yes he still has it. I can probably get some pics this weekend. But I can relate this much:

He cut at the front on the vertical part of the frame and then kinda far back on the rear part for total access to the left side of the motor. By slipping a short piece of rod into the joint at the front it allows you to swivel the frame bar out or back, same at the rear and provides support inside the frame pipe for drilling holes and bolting it all back together. He decided that this was the strongest option without welding, which would have been difficult in the tight space. All I know is that it is solid as a rock but allows for quick disassembly.

If I can catch up with him Saturday I'll get some pictures.

jeff
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-19-2008, 12:46 AM
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Ok. I'm down to draining the radiator and taking it off. I think I will then be ready to take off the motor mounts and get the stator cover off. One thing I think I may have made a mistake on is when I took the bevel gear case off I pulled the shaft along with it. Guess I'm now also going to have to reassemble the drive line as well. Oh well. Live and learn. Other than that I think this is actually going easier than I thought it would. Hope that isn't the calm before the storm kinda thing.

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