Troubleshooting Alternator Rotor - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-26-2015, 10:59 AM Thread Starter
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Troubleshooting Alternator Rotor

Hi All,

Earlier this summer I replaced my stator and R/R because my battery was not being charged by the bike. The old stator passed both the continuity test and the ground test, but failed the dynamic output test as one of the phases gave significantly less output than the other two phases. Now with the bike all put back together, the new stator is testing bad in the exact same way, it shows no shorts or fused coils, but one of the phases gives about 1/10th the output of the other two. Is it possible that my alternator rotor is bad? Or is there some other part of the charging system that might be the culprit? I would like to hear any possible alternatives before I go and order a new alternator rotor.

Thanks for your insights!

P.S. all electrical readings on the stator have been taken with the bike at operating temperature, and the stator leads disconnected from the rest of the wiring.
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-26-2015, 04:50 PM
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That's really weird. It would be odd for it to be the rotor, I'd think the readings would be low across the board if so.

Any chance there is any odd pinching/etc of the wiring within the stator cover? Wiring rubbing the rotor?

Is the stator perfectly centered (if you're using a stator mod plate)? If it was closer to one side of the rotor, the leg furthest from the rotor would produce less voltage.

1986 Kawasaki Vulcan 750
NGK Iridium Plugs #7803/DPR7EIX-9
Duralast Gold ETX15 AGM Battery
Coastered & Shaved
TOC MCCTs
Metzeler ME880 [110/90-19, 170/80-15]
Balance Dampers Replaced
Tuxedo Mod
Rebuilt Forks w/ Progressive Springs
V&H Cruzers
VN750.com Grill Cover
Meanstreak Seat
Emgo 23-92411 Handlebars
MOSFET FH012AA R/R


1990 Kawasaki Vulcan 750

1998 Honda VFR800 FI

2014 Honda VFR800F

1989 Pontiac Firebird Formula 350
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-26-2015, 06:24 PM Thread Starter
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I have not made any modifications to the generator housing (although at this point I'm kind of wishing I had done the tuxedo mod), so the stator should be centered in there. As far as the stator leads are concerned, I was very careful when I installed the new part, and I don't think I pinched any of the wiring. I'll make a close inspection of the stator leads and post my findings. Thank you for the reply!
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-31-2015, 09:33 AM Thread Starter
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I couldn't find any evidence of damaged, pinched, or shorted wires coming from my stator. Now my questions is, since I had the exact same problem before and after I replaced the stator (and r/r), could something else must be the cause of my problem? Any thoughts?
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-31-2015, 11:31 AM
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the rotor is essentially a bunch of permanent magnets mounted in a circular shape. each magnet will pass by all legs of the stator during a revolution. the odds of one magnet being bad are pretty low, but a sharp impact on the rotor assy can cause one or more to break. but that wouldnt cause low output on only a single leg, it would effect all legs, since all magnets pass all poles in a rotation.

would look at wiring (as mentioned) not only inside the engine, but the wiring outside as well. there are a set of 3 bullet connectors between the stator and the R/R that are common points of failure, as well as the connector at the R/R

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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-03-2015, 04:17 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks, when I initially tested the output from the stator I did so at those bullet connectors. Also, those connections were shiny clean even at the start of my whole charging fiasco. The things that troubles is that both the old, and new stator are reading as 'bad' in the exact same way.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-03-2015, 04:40 PM Thread Starter
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I just found this on JP cycle.

4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolate the stator & Rotor, If AC Output test Fails and Resistance Check, and Stator IB Test Pass then Rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-03-2015, 05:10 PM
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Since it's a single leg it really can't be the rotor. Still worth checking for damage, but I would be hard pressed to think that's it.

1986 Kawasaki Vulcan 750
NGK Iridium Plugs #7803/DPR7EIX-9
Duralast Gold ETX15 AGM Battery
Coastered & Shaved
TOC MCCTs
Metzeler ME880 [110/90-19, 170/80-15]
Balance Dampers Replaced
Tuxedo Mod
Rebuilt Forks w/ Progressive Springs
V&H Cruzers
VN750.com Grill Cover
Meanstreak Seat
Emgo 23-92411 Handlebars
MOSFET FH012AA R/R


1990 Kawasaki Vulcan 750

1998 Honda VFR800 FI

2014 Honda VFR800F

1989 Pontiac Firebird Formula 350
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-16-2015, 04:37 PM
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i say put an alternator on it thats what i did

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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-16-2015, 06:08 PM
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