stator fuses ? - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-30-2008, 03:26 PM Thread Starter
 
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stator fuses ?

pulling the engine next week to repair leaking cylinder gasket. also going to replace stator and r/r while i have the engine out. seems like i remember something about installing fuses in the stator wires. does anyone know anything about this? what is the purpose and what do ineed to do this?
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-30-2008, 04:23 PM
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the purpose of fuseing the stator wires is to keep the R/R from becoming damaged in the event of a stator failure. to fuse the stator, you just need to install three 25 (FIG1) amp fuses inline with the stator wires (FIG2)....

FIG 1


Fig 2

Just place the fuse holders at the bullet connector locations for the stator wires
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-30-2008, 04:33 PM
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I put inline fuses on the stator leads when I replaced it, however, in my reading I found that the recommended fuse was 15A on each lead. I'm going to try to find the post(s). I've been running the 15A fuses for about 500 miles without issue. I think that 15A is about the max that the stator will generate under normal conditions.

Chris
Wayne, NJ
1989 VN750-A5
VROC #27781
-Replaced/Fused Stator & Replaced/Relocated R/R (15K mi.)
-MF Battery
-De-Goated/Re-goated
-Coastered
-Splines Lubed
-Stebel Nautilus Horn
-AutoMeter 2" VOM
-Silverstar Headlight
-Refinished Gauge Rings and Mirrors(Flat Black)
-Refinished Swingarm/Lubed Pivots
-K&S Turn Signals Clear Cover/Amber Bulb
-Kenda Kruz 110/90-19 front 170/80-15 rear
-Clear Alternatives LED tail light
-Plexifairing III
-Willie & Max Saddlebags and SissyBar Bag
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-30-2008, 04:48 PM
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i think you are right chris
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-30-2008, 08:24 PM
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I fused my stator leads after installing an oil cooling line to remove heat from the stator windings. Fifteen amp fuses popped every once in a while so I changed to 20 Amp fuses and haven't had any problems.

Check my signature for pictures.

Darrel
'03 Vulcan 750 (90k miles)
-Corbin Seat
-V-Force Windshield
-LeatherLyke Touring Bags
-Chrome Luggage Rack
-Headlight Modulator
-Brakelight Flasher
-MF Battery
-Heads-Up Voltage Monitor
-Replaced Stator (9,000 and 16,000 mi.)
-Oil-cooled Stator Mod (photos)
-Replaced and Relocated R/R
-Greased rear splines
-Fused Stator (photos)
-Metzeler ME880 Marathon 170/80-15 (Rear), 110/90-19 (Front)
-TOC MCCTs installed
-Headlight Relays
SOLD - 2013
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-30-2008, 10:32 PM
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Does the oil cooled setup really work?

If so...how much time and money did it set you back?
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-01-2008, 10:51 PM
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Oh, I dunno, it took a couple of weeks to get the parts together when I had the engine out for a stator change. I got to thinking about the primary cause of failure of these and all MC stators being heat and spent a while looking at the engine and the side cover and decided this was the best way to get oil to the coils to cool them. The parts didn't actually cost more than a few dollars and the modifications were pretty easy. If I were to buy another Vulcan, I would route an external oil line to the stator before it fried, as described here:

Further protection for your stator

As for whether it works or not, that'll take another 50,000 miles or so to know. I've got about 17,000 miles on the new stator with oil cooling and there's no heat discoloration after one and a half summers in Tucson.

Darrel
'03 Vulcan 750 (90k miles)
-Corbin Seat
-V-Force Windshield
-LeatherLyke Touring Bags
-Chrome Luggage Rack
-Headlight Modulator
-Brakelight Flasher
-MF Battery
-Heads-Up Voltage Monitor
-Replaced Stator (9,000 and 16,000 mi.)
-Oil-cooled Stator Mod (photos)
-Replaced and Relocated R/R
-Greased rear splines
-Fused Stator (photos)
-Metzeler ME880 Marathon 170/80-15 (Rear), 110/90-19 (Front)
-TOC MCCTs installed
-Headlight Relays
SOLD - 2013
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-01-2008, 11:09 PM
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thanks...i will be looking into that when i try and do another stator mod
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