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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-18-2015, 03:44 PM Thread Starter
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Battery life

Well I just finished reading all through the verses and can't find out how long others have had their AGM batteries last. Also, has anyone used, or know if you can use a battery load tester for auto batteries on a bike battery? My gas mat battery left me stranded a while back and it was about 3+ years old. I usually keep a tender on it if I am not riding everyday so I was surprised when it died. It takes a charge but shows weak on my HF load tester.

My sonís battery is coming up on probably 5 years and still cranks fine. But since I found out my AAA is not the correct coverage for motorcycles I donít want him to be stranded like I was. Also I donít see how any one ďbump startsĒ these babies. I tried pushing it to the top of a parking lot and getting it going as fast as I could downhill but I guess I am just getting too old. As soon as I let the clutch out I just stopped. Maybe with some help, but not by myself. I miss the kick start of my H2.

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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-18-2015, 04:13 PM
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There is no clear cut answer to your question. if you are comparing your AGM to your son's, are they both the same CCA and brand? The higher CCA batteries should last longer plus there are cheap AGM battery manufactures just like every thing else.

'99 VN750, all stock
performed driveshaft maintenance
checked the ACCT using the Grambo Trick
Sycned carbs with flow meter
Yuasa YTX14AHL-BS AGM Battery
NGK DPR7EIX-9 Irridium Spark Plugs
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-18-2015, 06:15 PM
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With smaller motorsport AGM batteries, 5 years is a good time to swap it out. If well maintained they could last longer, no doubt, but it's never fun to be stranded somewhere when a preemptive replacement could have taken care of it.

I've bump started the VN once. Took about 5 tries. The most important thing was to basically slam down onto the seat when letting off the clutch to give the most traction on the rear, otherwise she just locks up.

1986 Kawasaki Vulcan 750
NGK Iridium Plugs #7803/DPR7EIX-9
Duralast Gold ETX15 AGM Battery
Coastered & Shaved
TOC MCCTs
Metzeler ME880 [110/90-19, 170/80-15]
Balance Dampers Replaced
Tuxedo Mod
Rebuilt Forks w/ Progressive Springs
V&H Cruzers
VN750.com Grill Cover
Meanstreak Seat
Emgo 23-92411 Handlebars
MOSFET FH012AA R/R


1990 Kawasaki Vulcan 750

1998 Honda VFR800 FI

2014 Honda VFR800F

1989 Pontiac Firebird Formula 350
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-18-2015, 06:16 PM
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Where I live (SW florida), if you get 4 or 5 yrs out of any battery, your doing good, real good. the heat kills em.

also, bump starting is hard because if your in 1st, its hard to get the engine turning. can be done, but harder. also, unless the positive neutral system in the transmission is missing or defective, you cant get anything other than 1 or neutral when stopped

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-18-2015, 06:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michiganteddybear View Post
Where I live (SW florida), if you get 4 or 5 yrs out of any battery, your doing good, real good. the heat kills em.

also, bump starting is hard because if your in 1st, its hard to get the engine turning. can be done, but harder. also, unless the positive neutral system in the transmission is missing or defective, you cant get anything other than 1 or neutral when stopped
You can get past 1st and neutral; just roll the bike forward with the clutch puled in and shift.

I was in second or third when I bump started it, so definitely a good important piece to note.

1986 Kawasaki Vulcan 750
NGK Iridium Plugs #7803/DPR7EIX-9
Duralast Gold ETX15 AGM Battery
Coastered & Shaved
TOC MCCTs
Metzeler ME880 [110/90-19, 170/80-15]
Balance Dampers Replaced
Tuxedo Mod
Rebuilt Forks w/ Progressive Springs
V&H Cruzers
VN750.com Grill Cover
Meanstreak Seat
Emgo 23-92411 Handlebars
MOSFET FH012AA R/R


1990 Kawasaki Vulcan 750

1998 Honda VFR800 FI

2014 Honda VFR800F

1989 Pontiac Firebird Formula 350
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-18-2015, 06:50 PM
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Installing a gauge to check on the battery charging and overall condition would be a good addition to any set up. Several members of this forum had done so and are constantly aware of any adverse conditions before they are a real problem leaving one stranded on the road side.

and always remember, "Ride until you rot!"
**Really not sure if the Big "C" is back right now
but having to face the fact that this is a lifetime routine
going forward. Five operations done and it still continues.

Tom
Vulcan 2000
New ride: 2009 Victory Vision Arlen Ness Signature Series
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-18-2015, 08:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thtanner View Post
You can get past 1st and neutral; just roll the bike forward with the clutch puled in and shift.

I was in second or third when I bump started it, so definitely a good important piece to note.
yea you can do that.. providing you can get it moving fast enough (mine wont shift until about 8 or so mph). but ya, once in 2nd, 3rd or 4th not a problem. Also, I have a fair amount of clutch drag on mine, its noticeably harder to push in 1st (with clutch pulled) than in neutral

2005 VN750

Sold 11-27-17
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-19-2015, 04:03 PM Thread Starter
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Battery life

Quote:
Originally Posted by vulcan1999 View Post
There is no clear cut answer to your question. if you are comparing your AGM to your son's, are they both the same CCA and brand? The higher CCA batteries should last longer plus there are cheap AGM battery manufactures just like every thing else.
Yeah I checked my old battery and it was only 190 CCA my son's and my new one (DieHard $109.00 out the door at Batteries and Bulbs with a 2 year warranty - ouch) are both 220 CCA. Both old ones are off brand (Extreme Magna Power and Extreme something?) both say made in USA one in Baltimore and one in Philadelphia. Both famous for their batteries. I swapped my battery into his bike to see if there was a difference. There is. A BIG difference. I think that his battery may be fine for a while but the savings on the time the starter cranks is huge. Almost instant with the new one. Funny thing is that my bike started great right up until it didn't. For now we have both agreed that it may be time to get a new battery for his bike. I'm getting ready to do some other work on his (MCCT and marbles just to start. My older bike runs much better with those mods and what he doesn't know won't hurt him. (Kind of like having a wife Next is opening up his baffles a little. He originally wanted a set of V&H but now the cost just does not seem to make it worthwhile. These bikes have more than paid for themselves since we live in northern CA we can ride almost all year long.

One more thing, any opinions on the battery load tester? Right now I am waiting until tomorrow to bench test the voltage on my old battery. The battery tender brought it up to a charge in about 30 minutes. So I think it is just "taking" a surface charge.

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-19-2015, 04:36 PM
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I got five years from the West Co in my Vulcan. Got 6 years out of the stock Yusa AGM in my FJR. Only got 3 out of the stock Yusa AGM in my Bonnie...but think I let it go too long between charges.
I've seen them last 3-7 years from other members. You really need a "smart" charger for these.

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-19-2015, 04:49 PM
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Here is a source for a 220 CCA Yuasha..
http://www.motoparthub.com/?search=Y....53&formValid=

'99 VN750, all stock
performed driveshaft maintenance
checked the ACCT using the Grambo Trick
Sycned carbs with flow meter
Yuasa YTX14AHL-BS AGM Battery
NGK DPR7EIX-9 Irridium Spark Plugs
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