Need help with my 1990 Vulcan Snellville,GA - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Electrical
Where does this wire go?
Includes Electrical mods, Lights, Stator,
Rectifier, Diagrams, etc

 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-24-2008, 03:19 PM Thread Starter
 
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Exclamation Need help with my 1990 Vulcan Snellville,GA

I bought the bike 2 months ago and have just go insurance and license. Pryor to this I just rode the bike around my subdivison. I now have neen ridding it everyday for the past 5 days. 2 days ago I went to crank it was dead. I roll started it and went to the auto parts store and got a new battery. The auto parts store put a quick charge on the new battery and installed and worked great. Last night I was on my way home and noticed that when I turned on my blinkers my headlight blinked as well. Got home and tried to crank it back up and it was dead. I again roll started it and it cranked. Please help. I am pretty mechanicly inclined but not so much with the electrical.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-24-2008, 06:47 PM
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did the headlight blink, or did it dim in sync with the turn signals? Check your charging system. (look at the threads that deal with the R/R and stator....as these are your two biggest issues.... ) did you get a MF Battery?
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-24-2008, 10:29 PM
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MF equals maintenance free, not something else.

Jim W
93 VN 750 "Ursula"
Moved R/R 08Sep06
R/R rewire 17Feb07
New R/R, Installed 14Jun08
New Stator installed 10 Jun08
Maintenance Free Battery 12Jan08
21480 Miles
VROC #8542
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-25-2008, 01:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sky Rider View Post
MF equals maintenance free, not something else.
o thats what that means .... lol jk put a voltmeter (dmm) on dc volts and put it on the battery w/ the bike running, u should be around 13.6-14.5v if not ur charging is messed up

1990 Kawasaki Vulcan 750

.... slightly modified
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-25-2008, 07:21 AM
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A quick charge isn't a way to get a full charge into a battery.
The slower the charge, the more complete the charge.

And like it's been said, a maintenance free battery is the best way to go!!


AKA: Tim & 'The Adventure Cycle' VROC #24567, NEVROC, SteelCity VROC


"When life throws you curves,
Aim for the apex."

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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-25-2008, 12:58 PM Thread Starter
 
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stator

I checked the volts going into the regulator from the stator and comming out of the regulator. The volts going into the regulator from the stator showed 7.4 volts. Comming out of the regulator was 3.6. The problem with the headlight and the brake light blinking was due to the previous owner doing shalty wiring. I rewired the light last night with correct connectors and all is well with the lights. My book says that there could be corrosion in the connecters but I didn't see any.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-25-2008, 01:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newrider2326 View Post
I checked the volts going into the regulator from the stator and comming out of the regulator. The volts going into the regulator from the stator showed 7.4 volts.

Were you checking AC volts, not DC?
You need to check AC. The 7.4 isn't good if it was.


AKA: Tim & 'The Adventure Cycle' VROC #24567, NEVROC, SteelCity VROC


"When life throws you curves,
Aim for the apex."

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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-25-2008, 11:03 PM
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Voltage coming from stator=AC Should read about 50 volts or so depending on RPM.
Voltage coming from R/R= DC. Should be anywhere from 12.90 to 13.26 or so at idle and 14+ at higher RPM.

Jim W
93 VN 750 "Ursula"
Moved R/R 08Sep06
R/R rewire 17Feb07
New R/R, Installed 14Jun08
New Stator installed 10 Jun08
Maintenance Free Battery 12Jan08
21480 Miles
VROC #8542
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