Bike is not charging battery - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Electrical
Where does this wire go?
Includes Electrical mods, Lights, Stator,
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post #1 of 35 (permalink) Old 07-02-2015, 02:21 PM Thread Starter
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Bike is not charging battery

I rode my bike for the first time yesterday for about 40 mins then at a red light the bike just died and wouldnt even try to start. After getting it trailed home i checked the battery and only 9.6v! The battery is brand new. I charged it and got it load tested and confirmed the battery is good. So why is the bike not charging the battery? Its a 92.

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post #2 of 35 (permalink) Old 07-02-2015, 02:53 PM
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Stator is probably bad. Charge up your battery and take some readings while it is running.

https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12333

2003 vn750
1988 Pontiac Trans Am (project/driver)
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post #3 of 35 (permalink) Old 07-02-2015, 06:06 PM Thread Starter
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I did all the test but not sure what the numbers mean....
1st test. Resistance ( Case to wires) Infinite/continuity for all of them.
2nd test. Resistance (Between poles) I got 1.5ohms for all of them
3rd Test. Volts (between poles) i got 0 , .12 and .13 volts
I did my own test and measured from wire to ground and got 9.2 volts each
I know test 1 shows that the wires aren't contacting the case but besides that i dont know what im looking at

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post #4 of 35 (permalink) Old 07-02-2015, 06:36 PM
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if your getting that low of a voltage on the stator terminals (Must be disconnected from regulator for the test), the stator is toast.

remember to do that test with engine running, around 4k rpm. also make sure the voltmeter is set for AC volts.

2005 VN750

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post #5 of 35 (permalink) Old 07-02-2015, 07:02 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michiganteddybear View Post
if your getting that low of a voltage on the stator terminals (Must be disconnected from regulator for the test), the stator is toast.

remember to do that test with engine running, around 4k rpm. also make sure the voltmeter is set for AC volts.
Ill re test to make sure.

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post #6 of 35 (permalink) Old 07-02-2015, 09:18 PM
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Could also be r&r

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post #7 of 35 (permalink) Old 07-02-2015, 09:34 PM Thread Starter
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how many volts should each wire off the stator be putting out? how would i test the r&r doc?

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post #8 of 35 (permalink) Old 07-03-2015, 12:30 AM
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When I tested mine, 18 months ago, just to check a new purchased bike. I tested @ idle and got 23-25 AC VT between the 1-2 1-3 and 2-3 terminals disconnected from R/R. That was about 20K miles ago, at the time everyone said my stator was toast. Still going strong. Since then I have changes to a Series type R/R. Which lets the stator only generate the power as determined by the load. No power is shunted to ground, keeps everything cooler, so longer life for components.
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post #9 of 35 (permalink) Old 07-03-2015, 08:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smltownr View Post
When I tested mine, 18 months ago, just to check a new purchased bike. I tested @ idle and got 23-25 AC VT between the 1-2 1-3 and 2-3 terminals disconnected from R/R. That was about 20K miles ago, at the time everyone said my stator was toast. Still going strong. Since then I have changes to a Series type R/R. Which lets the stator only generate the power as determined by the load. No power is shunted to ground, keeps everything cooler, so longer life for components.
What model r&r?

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lowered with progessive 412 10" shocks
rejetted for K/N Pods part#rc 2340
sportster seat

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post #10 of 35 (permalink) Old 07-03-2015, 08:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OleDirtyDoc View Post
What model r&r?
And how exactly does your r/r dictate how much energy your stator produces? Stator energy production is a result of your engine spinning. Nothing else. No matter the r/r, its job will always be to take the raw, uncontrolled energy from the stator and regulate it.

No power shunted? So at 8000rpm, when the rotor is spinning like crazy around your stator, your fancy r/r is limiting that magnetic interaction? I don't think so.
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