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Electrical
Where does this wire go?
Includes Electrical mods, Lights, Stator,
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-17-2008, 07:08 PM Thread Starter
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Unhappy Any Help?

For the past several weeks now, my headlight has been intermittently working at night (works almost always during the day..). I had tried rewiring the 10 pin connector as suggested in another thread, but to no avail. I am not very technically inclined and did not try much else and have settled with not riding at night. Well today a friend and I went out riding and about 15 minutes into the ride, I looked down at my speedometer and it was sunk at zero after working in town..
What I'm wondering is this, do you guys think that this is just bad wiring somewhere or is it a greater problem? Are the two problems related or am I just streaking on bad luck? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-17-2008, 07:22 PM
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I don't know about the head light problem but the speedometer is mechanical. There is no electrical to it besides the light bulbs to see it at night. Check your cable to make sure its pushed all the way up and screwed on tight.

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-17-2008, 07:39 PM Thread Starter
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wkrizan, but I had thought earlier that that may have been the problem and it turns out that everything is nice and tight up there...
Thanks for pointing out that the speedometer isn't electrical at all, at least tells me that I have two independent problems.

Last edited by tloc750; 06-17-2008 at 07:47 PM.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-17-2008, 08:31 PM
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The tach is electrical, The headlight problem is usualy a sign of a bad stator but not always. Test the stator and R/R and also clean your junction box out with a plastic safe contact cleaner not the kind from autozone, it will melt your fuses. try that and let us know how it goes. It could also be the relay which is why I suggested to clean the junction box. Alway go with the simple stuff first !! LOL If it does not help there is a way to wire the headlight to the fuse and have it on at all times the key is on.

James
1985 vn700 (T'Plana)
Gremlin bell
HD-O shield
saddlebagged
custom made supports
tool bag
extended backrest
Protac backrest
Highway pegs
custom mirrors
custom grips
V&H cruisers
lever covers
DieHard AGM
Kuryakin battery gauge
and LED taillights
marbled

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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-17-2008, 08:52 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Test the stator and R/R and also clean your junction box out with a plastic safe contact cleaner not the kind from autozone, it will melt your fuses. try that and let us know how it goes. It could also be the relay which is why I suggested to clean the junction box.
I've only just recently bought the bike and am pretty bare bones on a lot of the things I need to get for maintaining it.. What would I need to buy to test the stator and r/r?
As far as the junction box or the relay, I've been leaning towards that being the problem as well. I've tried the wire relocation you're referring to, its supposed to come on once you turn the key? yeah... that didn't work. I've had problems before with my bike blowing the main fuse but haven't seen that problem occur in awhile.
I think I'm going to buy some contact cleaner. What brand do you use? Melting wires doesn't sound fun..

And one last thing, do you have any ideas on my speedometer problem? Can't seem to find very much in previous threads..
Thanks a lot for the help and suggestions!
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-18-2008, 09:32 AM
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You could try and take the speedometer apart and look inside of it. The gears are made of plastic and known to wear out, if this is your case look for a new one on ebay would be my recommendation. Did you check the bottem of your cable as well? Might want to try pulling the whole cable out to make sure its still good as well. Good luck.

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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-18-2008, 04:28 PM
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I would try to wire the headlight straight off the battery to see if everything is in working order, then work back from the junction box. I also had this issue, but when I moved the blue wire to the empty slot it resolved the problem. So for me it was the relay. I also bypassed the Reserve lighting unit just to simplify things. Since I always carry an extra headlight bulb, I'm not particularly interested in the RLU feature.

Here is a link to the Electrex fault finding guide to help track down a possible problem with the stator/RR (all you need is a multimeter):

http://www.electrexusa.com/Images/fault_finding.pdf

I would also suggest you get a copy of the Clymer's manual the Kaw repair manual is available online, it is a 117MB download:

http://www.tocmanufacturing.com/File...nd%20Parts.pdf

I also attached the lighting system wiring diagram in the following thread:

https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7229

Hope it helps.

Chris
Wayne, NJ
1989 VN750-A5
VROC #27781
-Replaced/Fused Stator & Replaced/Relocated R/R (15K mi.)
-MF Battery
-De-Goated/Re-goated
-Coastered
-Splines Lubed
-Stebel Nautilus Horn
-AutoMeter 2" VOM
-Silverstar Headlight
-Refinished Gauge Rings and Mirrors(Flat Black)
-Refinished Swingarm/Lubed Pivots
-K&S Turn Signals Clear Cover/Amber Bulb
-Kenda Kruz 110/90-19 front 170/80-15 rear
-Clear Alternatives LED tail light
-Plexifairing III
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-18-2008, 05:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tloc750 View Post
I've only just recently bought the bike and am pretty bare bones on a lot of the things I need to get for maintaining it.. What would I need to buy to test the stator and r/r?
As far as the junction box or the relay, I've been leaning towards that being the problem as well. I've tried the wire relocation you're referring to, its supposed to come on once you turn the key? yeah... that didn't work. I've had problems before with my bike blowing the main fuse but haven't seen that problem occur in awhile.
I think I'm going to buy some contact cleaner. What brand do you use? Melting wires doesn't sound fun..

And one last thing, do you have any ideas on my speedometer problem? Can't seem to find very much in previous threads..
Thanks a lot for the help and suggestions!
The contact cleaner I use is called "Shields" but it is very old and not sold anymore. Got my can from a radio station behind my house. They had a few left and gave me one. Radio shack has some thats kinda expensive not as much as shieds but still costs. Just make sure it is plastic safe and spray into the slots of the junction box and replace fuses. You may also wish to clean all the contacts around the box and at the bucket. If you tried the relocate at the box, then try the straight to the battery as Chris said. See what happens.

And you can pick up a multimeter for a few bucks at Harbour Frieght to test the stator and R/R.

The first thing you should do for the speedo is take the cable off at the speedo and rim then check the cable to see if it isn't broken in two or frayed real bad. That may be the prob there. If not then you'll need to replace the speedo as it is too hard to open up if your new to this stuff. If you get froggy and wish to try it just be careful and do it slow as to not loose anything that may fall out in case.

James
1985 vn700 (T'Plana)
Gremlin bell
HD-O shield
saddlebagged
custom made supports
tool bag
extended backrest
Protac backrest
Highway pegs
custom mirrors
custom grips
V&H cruisers
lever covers
DieHard AGM
Kuryakin battery gauge
and LED taillights
marbled

____________________

VROC #27169
Tn VROC #134

www.youtube.com/thetrueliljd

Last edited by liljd; 06-18-2008 at 05:08 PM.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-18-2008, 10:57 PM
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The speedo cable has a habit of breaking down by the wheel where it bends up to go vertical into the speedo itself. That bend can collect water and crud and cause the cable to sieze there and then break.

I wouldn't go off the deep end yet on the head light problem being the stator. If it was the stator, your battery would not charge either.
To me it sounds like an intermittent connection to the head light from the junction box. There is a wire or connector that is making intermittant contact somewhere in the system. I'd start from the headlight bucket and work toward the junction box. It may be as simple as the connector to the headlight having worked loose and causing the problem.

Jim W
93 VN 750 "Ursula"
Moved R/R 08Sep06
R/R rewire 17Feb07
New R/R, Installed 14Jun08
New Stator installed 10 Jun08
Maintenance Free Battery 12Jan08
21480 Miles
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-19-2008, 01:22 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sky Rider View Post
I wouldn't go off the deep end yet on the head light problem being the stator. If it was the stator, your battery would not charge either.
To me it sounds like an intermittent connection to the head light from the junction box. There is a wire or connector that is making intermittant contact somewhere in the system. I'd start from the headlight bucket and work toward the junction box. It may be as simple as the connector to the headlight having worked loose and causing the problem.
Had the same issue AFTER a stator & R/R change recently.
Found two issues in particular, the small brown wire from the Ign. switch (it also runs through several connectors that are suspect) was not making good contact with the R/R, this wire (as well as I can understand it) tells the R/R it's time to do something. If this wire is bad, open, or shorted, etc. the R/R will not send a charge signal to the J-box circuit that triggers the relay for your headlight.
The second issue was the connection at the R/R, the spades had become loose and when I greased them up (I've relocated the R/R to outside the frame) it exacerbated the issue.
I pulled the plug, re-cleaned and removed the spades and crimped them (carefully) with a small needle-nose pliers and re-inserted, just for grins, I placed a high-quality heat-resistant tie-strap around the plug to ensure it would not vibrate loose.
Hope this helps some, got mine working great now (well, it's actually the wife's, so it is even more importnat that it works well!).
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