With all the new stator replacements going on right now, someone should experiment with an external oil stator cooling solution. When I last changed my stator I routed an oil line off of the pump to spray into the spinning flywheel cavity and cool the stator, but it required a lot of modification. It's been running two years in the Tucson heat with not a hint of heat discoloration on the windings.
A much easier way to do the same thing would be to install a tee in the chromed external oil pipe that supplies the front and rear hydraulic lash adjusters (HLAs) and route that in through the outer generator cover.
1) Cut the chrome external oil pipe just above the oil filler cap.
2) Install a compression tee and record the oil pressure in that line at various RPMs.
3) Remove the outer alternator cover and meticulously measure from two of the mounting screw holes to a point directly between two of the exposed stator windings, such that a stream of oil directed there would spray into the flywheel cavity.
4) Transfer this location to a center punch mark on the outside surface of the outer alternator cover.
5) Drill the outer alternator cover and install a right angle bulkhead-type compression fitting in it with some Yamabond or other suitable sealant.
6) Install a short stub of 1/8" copper tubing on the inner end of the bulkhead fitting to act as a spray nozzle, or use an actual oiler nozzle.
7) Reinstall the outer alternator cover, making sure the added tube and fitting don't interfere with the stator or wiring from the ignition pickups.
8) Route a 1/8" copper line between the tee in the external oil pipe and the bulkhead fitting. (Now would be a good time to temporarily install another tee in the oil pipe to measure the oil pressure in the line.)
9) Run the engine a check for leaks. Test the oil pressure on the external oil pipe, adjusting oil flow through the added tubing if necessary. (I suspect the pressure won't drop because to pump pressure is about 25% above minimum spec at the oil sending unit on my bike, and that's with a 1/8" bypass.)
Chrome tubing and fittings can be used to clean up the appearance, but the above modification can be performed without removing the engine which is a BIG plus.
With the addition of fused stator leads, this should make your current stator outlast the bike.
UPDATE: Oil cooling modification pictures (internal tubing) here: Pictures on Flickr
Edit: On further thought, it may be easer or more robust to tap into the fitting below the oil pressure switch. This is the fitting where the HLA supply lines connect, but would provide more oil volume than teeing off of further down the HLA tubing.
'03 Vulcan 750
-LeatherLyke Touring Bags
-Chrome Luggage Rack
-Heads-Up Voltage Monitor
-Replaced Stator (9,000 and 16,000 mi.)
-Oil-cooled Stator Mod (photos
-Replaced and Relocated R/R
-Greased rear splines
-Fused Stator (photos
-Metzeler ME880 Marathon 170/80-15 (Rear), 110/90-19 (Front)
-TOC MCCTs installed
SOLD - 2013