Regulators - different models? - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-11-2008, 09:40 PM Thread Starter
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Regulators - different models?

There appear to be at least a couple different models / part #'s used for VN700/VN750 regulator/rectifiers over the years. Does anyone know what has changed?

If you've got an older bike would there be any benefit (or problems) if you replaced a R/R with one from a newer model of cycle?

Thanks
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-11-2008, 10:01 PM
 
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if i were you i would just get an aftermarket r/r instead of the OEM...at bikebandit.com, you can search by year
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-11-2008, 10:06 PM Thread Starter
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Regulators - different models?

Thanks - I was thinking of ordering one from Rick's but they have one model for the older cycles and another for the newer. I was just wondering why? I sent them an email but haven't been able to get an answer yet. I would think that there would be some difference but I've got no idea what it might be.

Thanks,
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-12-2008, 08:47 AM
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Maybe there was an update or something. In checking the Ron Ayers site I noticed that the OEM for my 93 has been superseded by another part number but the price is $99 or so.
I checked on an 05 and it had a different part number and a much higher price tag of $157 or so. I don't know why.

Jim W
93 VN 750 "Ursula"
Moved R/R 08Sep06
R/R rewire 17Feb07
New R/R, Installed 14Jun08
New Stator installed 10 Jun08
Maintenance Free Battery 12Jan08
21480 Miles
VROC #8542
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-12-2008, 09:59 AM
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I received my new R/R from Ricks yesterday. Just a heads up, as far as differences go, the mounting holes did not line up exactly on my 89. (Part# 21066-1101, (Ricks Part# 10-301).

Sorry to hijack the thread, but while I'm on the subject of differences between RR's across model years, I am on my second R/R for this go around of my stator/RR replacement, and I am finding differences between the 2 that are both designed for my model year, and both were different from the spec table in the service manual. After the charging problems continued on the bike, following the install of a new K&N RR, I pulled it and did a check with my MultiMeter, and the resistance values I got did not match up with the service manual table. I wound up finding the Ricks RR at DennisKirk, and that showed up yesterday. The initial test with the multimeter also yielded different values from the spec table in the manual, and different from the K&N RR. Both of these checked out ok when I ran the diode tests outlined in the Electrosport guide. So while we are talking about RR's and differences across model years, is anyone else seeing the same results I am with regard to the differences from the table apparently on RR's for the same model year?!

The new RR seems to be charging the bike. I ran it for over an hour last night trying to see if it would continue to charge after the bike warmed up, which it did. However, I am still getting a voltage of .7 on the switched wire, which is lower than the .9 - 1.0 reading I was getting on the K&N RR, but still significantly higher than the .2 specified in the Electrosport guide. Since I am so new to all of this, I have no idea if these differences are to be expected. What are you folks seeing for voltage on the switched wire? I don't want the next symptom to be a fried stator! Been there, done that! I am on the verge of pulling all of the wiring, for a complete overhaul. I just don't want to go through all of that effort for nothing. If other folks are not having similar results, then the problem has to be in the wiring, and an overhaul is in order.

Chris
Wayne, NJ
1989 VN750-A5
VROC #27781
-Replaced/Fused Stator & Replaced/Relocated R/R (15K mi.)
-MF Battery
-De-Goated/Re-goated
-Coastered
-Splines Lubed
-Stebel Nautilus Horn
-AutoMeter 2" VOM
-Silverstar Headlight
-Refinished Gauge Rings and Mirrors(Flat Black)
-Refinished Swingarm/Lubed Pivots
-K&S Turn Signals Clear Cover/Amber Bulb
-Kenda Kruz 110/90-19 front 170/80-15 rear
-Clear Alternatives LED tail light
-Plexifairing III
-Willie & Max Saddlebags and SissyBar Bag
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-12-2008, 11:36 AM
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Oh yes, different regulators will yield completely different internal readings. I had a long discussion with Rick once and he assured me that all the aftermarket suppliers source their R/Rs from Taiwan contract manufacturers who design to functional specs and are at complete liberty to decide how to implement the design. Thus, each "brand" will have different resistances on the control circuit pins and different diode junction voltage drops. I have also found that the readings on a new OEM R/R vary greatly by meter type. I have three DMMs and they each give different readings, and none agree with the table in the factory manual. I think those readings were specified for an analog voltmeter.

The best that you can do is monitor the operating voltages of the system, and it sounds like yours is perfect. No worries, man.

Darrel
'03 Vulcan 750 (90k miles)
-Corbin Seat
-V-Force Windshield
-LeatherLyke Touring Bags
-Chrome Luggage Rack
-Headlight Modulator
-Brakelight Flasher
-MF Battery
-Heads-Up Voltage Monitor
-Replaced Stator (9,000 and 16,000 mi.)
-Oil-cooled Stator Mod (photos)
-Replaced and Relocated R/R
-Greased rear splines
-Fused Stator (photos)
-Metzeler ME880 Marathon 170/80-15 (Rear), 110/90-19 (Front)
-TOC MCCTs installed
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-12-2008, 11:58 AM
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Dude, you have no idea how much I wanted to hear that answer!!


Chris
Wayne, NJ
1989 VN750-A5
VROC #27781
-Replaced/Fused Stator & Replaced/Relocated R/R (15K mi.)
-MF Battery
-De-Goated/Re-goated
-Coastered
-Splines Lubed
-Stebel Nautilus Horn
-AutoMeter 2" VOM
-Silverstar Headlight
-Refinished Gauge Rings and Mirrors(Flat Black)
-Refinished Swingarm/Lubed Pivots
-K&S Turn Signals Clear Cover/Amber Bulb
-Kenda Kruz 110/90-19 front 170/80-15 rear
-Clear Alternatives LED tail light
-Plexifairing III
-Willie & Max Saddlebags and SissyBar Bag
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-12-2008, 05:14 PM
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I think I remember hearing something about the meter Kawasaki has for getting readings was somehow slightly different than a standard DVM.
Might be my getting up in age brain getting the best of me on that though.


AKA: Tim & 'The Adventure Cycle' VROC #24567, NEVROC, SteelCity VROC


"When life throws you curves,
Aim for the apex."

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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-13-2008, 12:23 AM Thread Starter
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R/R - different models

Hyperbuzzin - I'm a newbie to the vn700/750 world and I've heard the same thing a couple times so far - about kawasaki having some special DMM in order to get matching values... Don't know if it's true though. I wish there was a reliable way to test a R/R. I'd really like to know if mine is bad before I replace it. Ugh.

I know I'm not charging. They yellow stator wires to ground look ok. The yellow to yellow, cold values jump around all over the place. Haven't tried them hot yet. I've still got a stock 85 R/R 24k on they bike and the ohm check didn't match spec but that may not really mean much. I'm still assuming that it's toast though. I need to re-do the connectors as well since they appear to have fried. That may be causing the lack of charge or it might have fried the R/R as well. Seems like the only real test would be to put a VM on the bike and run it at speed to see if the voltage drops out. Electrical can be a pain.
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