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Where does this wire go?
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post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-11-2015, 03:46 PM Thread Starter
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Where to go from here?

So, I'm at a a loss. I have no Idea where to go now. I have jumped the 11-13 wires. All safeties should be out of play now. Nothing at all. I'm getting continuity from battery to starter, the starter switch works (checked with multimeter), lights all work, neutral light is on, the starter turns when I jump the solenoid.... How can I test at the solenoid that the starter switch is doing anything? When I pull the 2 piece connector out, what do I do the test the 2 wires? Should I be seeing a certain voltage or Ohm load? Is there anyway to test the junction box?
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post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-11-2015, 07:54 PM
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Don't know how to test JB try to clean start switch

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post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-11-2015, 10:42 PM Thread Starter
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Tried using my old harness with salvaged connectors, but wasn't even getting a neutral light so I went back to the harness that at least had the light coming on and now it won't even come on even though it's in neutral.....about ready to give up on the stupid thing. It can't really be this hard......
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post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-12-2015, 12:33 AM Thread Starter
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now that i think about it more, when the light was on, i kicked it down into first (it should go to first right?) and the light didn't go off. is there a way to get a false ground on the neutral? maybe there is a deeper problem.... its just getting really frustrating that I have everything hooked up, and it won't even attempt to start. anyone have any clue what the random yellow wire under the tank would go to? wasn't hooked up previously and i see absolutely no where for it to go....
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post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-12-2015, 02:07 AM
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One way to test the solenoid...

Disconnect the 2 small wire connector from the solenoid (the one that the starter switch connects to)
take a pair of jumper wires. Attach one pin of the solenoid to ground. the other pin touch to +12v power, and you *should* get the clicking sound same as you should be getting when pressing the starting button.

as for the neutral light. Yep, should deff be turning off when you click out of neutral. May have something to do with the safety switch bypass??? Not really sure what might be going on with that.

The yellow wire under the tank sounds like the one that should be going to the coolant temp sensor near the coolant fill neck.

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post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-12-2015, 08:52 AM
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NDR, with the bypass of the safety switches done properly, the neutral light still works as designed.

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post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-12-2015, 10:59 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ndr View Post
One way to test the solenoid...

Disconnect the 2 small wire connector from the solenoid (the one that the starter switch connects to)
take a pair of jumper wires. Attach one pin of the solenoid to ground. the other pin touch to +12v power, and you *should* get the clicking sound same as you should be getting when pressing the starting button.

as for the neutral light. Yep, should deff be turning off when you click out of neutral. May have something to do with the safety switch bypass??? Not really sure what might be going on with that.

The yellow wire under the tank sounds like the one that should be going to the coolant temp sensor near the coolant fill neck.
I already checked the solenoid, nice and strong click when i touched it directly to the battery. As far as the yellow wire, it is nearly dead center under the tank and only about 6 inches long, so it really has nowhere to go at all... I'll see if I can get a picture of it tonight.

Quote:
Originally Posted by michiganteddybear View Post
NDR, with the bypass of the safety switches done properly, the neutral light still works as designed.
Do you know where the specific connection for the neutral sensor is?
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post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-12-2015, 12:00 PM
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Idont know right now, I can check later. but if the bypass has been done, it doesnt matter what the neutral light is doing (on or off) you should get cranking.

I am thinking a problem with either the run/stop switch or the start switch, or ign switch.

check for voltage at the starter solenoid when you press start button (ign and run/stop on position). should be battery voltage.

also, is battery in good condition? and I know we said this before, grounds, grounds grounds...

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post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-12-2015, 12:32 PM
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It's always the ignition switch.

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post #10 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-12-2015, 02:13 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michiganteddybear View Post
Idont know right now, I can check later. but if the bypass has been done, it doesnt matter what the neutral light is doing (on or off) you should get cranking.

I am thinking a problem with either the run/stop switch or the start switch, or ign switch.

check for voltage at the starter solenoid when you press start button (ign and run/stop on position). should be battery voltage.

also, is battery in good condition? and I know we said this before, grounds, grounds grounds...
Every ground I have found (3) is good so far. I have the main one right next to the negative on the battery, on on the right side of the battery box (attached to the forward mounting bolt for the battery box), and the starter ground (i'm assuming its fine as it turns when i jump the solenoid), I don't know of any other grounds, none of the diagrams show anything other than the starter and the main one by the negative on the battery.

Is there a way to test the ing switch with a multimeter? i'm assuming there should be some kind of ohm load I should be getting. I'll pull those off tonight and check them and clean them, give me something to do other than staring in hatred at the wires.
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