Coil issue? - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-07-2015, 09:27 PM Thread Starter
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Coil issue?

Ok so I'm almost positive I've eliminated the POOGS / Carb issue as what is wrong with my bike. (I've cleaned them out myself once and everything looked ok, but they are getting rebuilt by an old mechanic friend right now just in case.)

So once you crank it up the rear jug doesn't want to start up at first but will start hitting in the first 10 seconds or so and by the time it will idle on it's own it's running along just fine. then you can go drive for 15 - 25 maybe 30 minutes and no issues, bike makes plenty of power no misfires or anything. Then all of a sudden the rear cylinder will start misfiring and dropping out. if you pull over and let it cool for maybe 20 minutes with the seat off it'll fire back up and be fine for maybe a mile or so or hell even 5 - 10 miles before it comes back. When it happens bike refuses to idle, i get back fires through the intake and exhaust. on the rear jug, but it seems like if i can get it to 1/4 throttle around 3200 rpms it will come back alive for a bit. or if i can get it up to 6 grand it'll scream like nothings wrong. Let the bike sit over night and no issues on the next startup. Buddy of mine just returned my multimeter today but it's 20 degree's going down to 11 tonight so i'm not going to be able to get it to replicate the symptoms for a few days. Does this sound like a coil going out?

And if so should i just go ahead and get the accel kit for $150 with 2 coils and a set of wires?

I'm about to order a used coil from kannuck just to eliminate it as a problem and hell i figure it's always good to have a spare.

2000 ZRX1100 - Mad Max Black, and faster than I care to go.
1995 Vulcan 750 Bobberish project. - SOLD

"There are two opinions in this world MINE, and the wrong one. . . " - Jeremy Clarkson
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-08-2015, 01:25 AM
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Could be coil or could be way too rich mixture on rear. I once had a same problem with my EN500. When bike got warm left cylinder started sputter and backfire, after cooling everything was fine for short time. Bike ran well when you hit the gas but when tried steady speed it started that sputtering and backfiring again. I assume You have checked spark plugs on rear, what was the color? If black and sooty = rich

For checking coil just try front coil to rear and vice versa, if it still on rear then check carbs.

Last edited by tzrwesku; 01-08-2015 at 01:32 AM.
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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-08-2015, 06:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IceCold4x4 View Post
Ok so I'm almost positive I've eliminated the POOGS / Carb issue as what is wrong with my bike. (I've cleaned them out myself once and everything looked ok, but they are getting rebuilt by an old mechanic friend right now just in case.)

So once you crank it up the rear jug doesn't want to start up at first but will start hitting in the first 10 seconds or so and by the time it will idle on it's own it's running along just fine. then you can go drive for 15 - 25 maybe 30 minutes and no issues, bike makes plenty of power no misfires or anything. Then all of a sudden the rear cylinder will start misfiring and dropping out. if you pull over and let it cool for maybe 20 minutes with the seat off it'll fire back up and be fine for maybe a mile or so or hell even 5 - 10 miles before it comes back. When it happens bike refuses to idle, i get back fires through the intake and exhaust. on the rear jug, but it seems like if i can get it to 1/4 throttle around 3200 rpms it will come back alive for a bit. or if i can get it up to 6 grand it'll scream like nothings wrong. Let the bike sit over night and no issues on the next startup. Buddy of mine just returned my multimeter today but it's 20 degree's going down to 11 tonight so i'm not going to be able to get it to replicate the symptoms for a few days. Does this sound like a coil going out?

And if so should i just go ahead and get the accel kit for $150 with 2 coils and a set of wires?

I'm about to order a used coil from kannuck just to eliminate it as a problem and hell i figure it's always good to have a spare.
Based on the fact that the bike will run at high rpms leads me to believe you have a pilot jet or float problem in the rear carb. Up until around 2800 rpms you are only running on the pilot jets. After 2800 rpms the main jets kick in and both jets are being used. Could be a stuck float, bad float needle valve, or a clogged pilot jet. jmo

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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-08-2015, 08:33 AM
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Make sure your carbs are synched.

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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-08-2015, 12:34 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JM2001 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by IceCold4x4 View Post
Ok so I'm almost positive I've eliminated the POOGS / Carb issue as what is wrong with my bike. (I've cleaned them out myself once and everything looked ok, but they are getting rebuilt by an old mechanic friend right now just in case.)

So once you crank it up the rear jug doesn't want to start up at first but will start hitting in the first 10 seconds or so and by the time it will idle on it's own it's running along just fine. then you can go drive for 15 - 25 maybe 30 minutes and no issues, bike makes plenty of power no misfires or anything. Then all of a sudden the rear cylinder will start misfiring and dropping out. if you pull over and let it cool for maybe 20 minutes with the seat off it'll fire back up and be fine for maybe a mile or so or hell even 5 - 10 miles before it comes back. When it happens bike refuses to idle, i get back fires through the intake and exhaust. on the rear jug, but it seems like if i can get it to 1/4 throttle around 3200 rpms it will come back alive for a bit. or if i can get it up to 6 grand it'll scream like nothings wrong. Let the bike sit over night and no issues on the next startup. Buddy of mine just returned my multimeter today but it's 20 degree's going down to 11 tonight so i'm not going to be able to get it to replicate the symptoms for a few days. Does this sound like a coil going out?

And if so should i just go ahead and get the accel kit for $150 with 2 coils and a set of wires?

I'm about to order a used coil from kannuck just to eliminate it as a problem and hell i figure it's always good to have a spare.
Based on the fact that the bike will run at high rpms leads me to believe you have a pilot jet or float problem in the rear carb. Up until around 2800 rpms you are only running on the pilot jets. After 2800 rpms the main jets kick in and both jets are being used. Could be a stuck float, bad float needle valve, or a clogged pilot jet. jmo
If it was a clogged jet it would be a constant problem. And that wouldn't account for when it happens running bad from 4 to 6k rpms.
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-08-2015, 01:05 PM
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Sounds like sticky float needle and is flooding out down low.try Wolfies back blow method.it's a sticky in the carb section.

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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-08-2015, 02:13 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by OleDirtyDoc View Post
Sounds like sticky float needle and is flooding out down low.try Wolfies back blow method.it's a sticky in the carb section.
Tried it on 3 occasions. Also let seafoam sit in there for an hour or two while it was hot. I. Going out there in a bit and pulling the carbs but I'm not holding my breath on them.

I'm starting to get the nagging feeling it' more than just one thing wrong with this bike.

Last edited by IceCold4x4; 01-08-2015 at 02:14 PM.
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-08-2015, 04:52 PM Thread Starter
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Just tore the carbs down and the jets appear to be clean inside. Although looks like the previous owner lied about the carbs being rejetted. Def still has a 38 slow jet in it. Can't find any markings on the others. . . hrmmmm Guess I need to order jets while i'm at it.

2000 ZRX1100 - Mad Max Black, and faster than I care to go.
1995 Vulcan 750 Bobberish project. - SOLD

"There are two opinions in this world MINE, and the wrong one. . . " - Jeremy Clarkson
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-08-2015, 08:10 PM
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Have you taken off the floats?if not hold them up and blow through the gas inlet.if you can blow freely(hehehe he said blow freely )then the float needle isn't closing

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Support your local FREEBIRDS MC
1986/5 Vn700/750 Frankenfook cross eyed bitch "Mellisa Fayhe"
I am a BIKER and i'm proud.FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY

lowered with progessive 412 10" shocks
rejetted for K/N Pods part#rc 2340
sportster seat

'I didn't lose my mind.i gave it away

BRING BACK WOLFIE."Peace and Carrots"RIP
"And I'm free...as a bird"John Lennon Free as a Bird
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-08-2015, 08:16 PM Thread Starter
Overkill? Whats that?
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JM2001 View Post
Based on the fact that the bike will run at high rpms leads me to believe you have a pilot jet or float problem in the rear carb. Up until around 2800 rpms you are only running on the pilot jets. After 2800 rpms the main jets kick in and both jets are being used. Could be a stuck float, bad float needle valve, or a clogged pilot jet. jmo
Quote:
Originally Posted by OleDirtyDoc View Post
Sounds like sticky float needle and is flooding out down low.try Wolfies back blow method.it's a sticky in the carb section.
So carbs have been torn down now, everything appears pretty damn clean. All pilots can be seen through and uniform hole sizes managed to pass some VERY small wire through the pilots. blew through the gas inlet while holding the float up and no air is getting through.

I guess the next step is to inspect all the ignition related connections, replace both coils with the accel kit, and wire them directly to the battery. I guess I'll probably do the pickup mod as well while i'm at it.

Any other ideas? or does this sound like i've covered all the bases and am heading in the right direction?

2000 ZRX1100 - Mad Max Black, and faster than I care to go.
1995 Vulcan 750 Bobberish project. - SOLD

"There are two opinions in this world MINE, and the wrong one. . . " - Jeremy Clarkson
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