Multimeter - Stator Testing - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-27-2008, 08:21 AM Thread Starter
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Exclamation Multimeter - Stator Testing

I'm tyring to conduct some tests on my stator. I'm currently trying to check resistance between the leads coming out of the stator. The problem is that I'm not very experienced with testing ohms. I think I have my multimeter set up correctly, but I'm a little confused at all the difference settings, not sure where to set it. Secondly I beleive the data I have says it should read betwee .35 - .55 (somehwere around there). When I touch the leads to the leads the numbers jump around (in the .70 - .40 range) quickly and then go back to the base line. Does that mean something to anyone?
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-27-2008, 08:59 AM
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When you measure resistance that low, lead resistance and probe contact greatly affect results, especially on a low end meter. Better meters, you short the probes and can zero them for a better reading.

Sounds like you are in the ball park.

More important, what is your readings from each yellow lead to engine case?
Should be close to infinite. Check cold and hot engine.

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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-27-2008, 09:58 AM Thread Starter
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I assume that should be NO continuity between the stator leads and the engine case. Correct?
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-27-2008, 11:59 AM
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Correct

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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-28-2008, 12:19 AM
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On a digital meter that is usually indicated by an OL in the window. Means OverLoad.
The range is what is important on the meter. Most digital meters have an auto range selector that takes most of the guess work out of the problem.

Jim W
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-16-2008, 10:36 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sky Rider View Post
On a digital meter that is usually indicated by an OL in the window. Means OverLoad.
The range is what is important on the meter. Most digital meters have an auto range selector that takes most of the guess work out of the problem.
Just an added note, on my Fluke, OL also means "Open Lead" another way of saying absolute 0 continuity.
Less expensive meters are easy...just touch the leads firmly together and mesure your ohms resistance (typically much <.5), then subtract that # from your reading and you'll be very close.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-18-2008, 06:01 AM
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It gives you more info if you chek the voltage. On running engine on idle rps it should give you about 20 V, AC between each of leads. To do this you should disconnect stator from r\r and get three reading that should be near by meaters

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don't wont,but need to R/R relo,
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