stator resistance - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-24-2014, 09:11 PM Thread Starter
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stator resistance

Can anyone confirm the readings I have for stator resistance (between each stator yellow wire connectors), the manual says between 0.34-0.52 ohms. My meter is on x1 scale as manual says, readings are 4.5 ohms! to me this says stator is faulty but If I put meter scale to x1k the readings are ok! So am I correct with meter setting-see pic.

Mike.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-25-2014, 03:29 AM
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your meter is set correctly
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-25-2014, 03:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michael2u View Post
Can anyone confirm the readings I have for stator resistance (between each stator yellow wire connectors), the manual says between 0.34-0.52 ohms. My meter is on x1 scale as manual says, readings are 4.5 ohms! to me this says stator is faulty but If I put meter scale to x1k the readings are ok! So am I correct with meter setting-see pic. the voltage readings ?
Mike.
I believe your Stator is bad.....what are your voltage readings ? ...initially, that's what counts.....


'86 VN750 13,700 mi -Stock
-Purchased 2008 w/8800mi
Replaced ALL Cables . Kuryakyn LED Voltmeter
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Dampers went out @ 13+K !
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...have a vulcan good day!
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-25-2014, 05:49 AM Thread Starter
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hey thanks heaps
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-25-2014, 04:24 PM
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Before you call that stator bad. I would check the voltage at the battery with the RPMS about 3k. Another question I have it what is the ohm reading on your meter when you touch the meter leads together?
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-25-2014, 06:16 PM
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If you touch the leads of that meter together, Where does the needle land?
in other words, has it been ZERO'd out before taking the reading?
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-26-2014, 11:43 PM
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I would also check to see if the stator is grounded to the engine case. I was getting some conflicting resistance readings, and it was not charging at all. I used a low voltage test light to send power through each of the yellow stator wires, on the stator side. Touching the lead from this light to the case confirmed that voltage was passing through the stator to the case. The stator was completely fried when I removed it. I assume you have a digital meter. I have one too. But I don't like it. I have an old AWS analog meter that I much prefer over the digital one.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-11-2014, 02:57 AM
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I had a stator that grounded out under running load, but not when the bike was shut off, either hot or cold. I pulled it, it tested fine, but it wouldn't make power in the bike. Local alternator shop tested it with high amperage instead of just a multimeter, and he found that the windings were grounding. Just something to consider in your testing. If there's any question, test with higher amperage.


Last edited by Hexadecimus; 10-16-2014 at 09:06 PM.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-13-2014, 04:51 PM
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Last year I checked the output, and ohms of my stator and posted here. all values were not as recommended, and the output was; 14 vt @ 1100rpm but but lower at increased rpms. Everyone said my stator was going. Well, that was 18,000 miles ago. Still no problems with battery keeping charged.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-16-2014, 09:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smltownr View Post
Last year I checked the output, and ohms of my stator and posted here. all values were not as recommended, and the output was; 14 vt @ 1100rpm but but lower at increased rpms. Everyone said my stator was going. Well, that was 18,000 miles ago. Still no problems with battery keeping charged.
I think the original R/R has been known to do that sometimes. That's just how it is. I bet you have shunt style like the original, not a MOSFET?

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