DIODE GURUS!!?? - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Electrical
Where does this wire go?
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-08-2014, 09:01 PM Thread Starter
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DIODE GURUS!!??

Have junction box all apart. Replaced light relay but found old one was good. The 3 connected diodes all show about 1.7ohms(not sure what scale meter shows). The 2 for the headlight read 1.5 & 1.8. all flow current(via ohm meter) only one way as they should. No light unless I jump brown/white to blue. Then it stays on until engine shut down. Are diode/s bad or is the signal to them blocked somewhere else? It is either something I can't understand from schematic & writeups or back to Radio Shack for diodes(or an Ebay used box. Thanks,Guzzi John
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-08-2014, 09:25 PM
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i don't have my schematic in front of me, but one of the Yellow Stator wires ties into the headlight relay to trigger it.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-09-2014, 08:46 AM Thread Starter
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You pushed the right button in my head. When I got the VN a PO had replaced the RR connecter w 6 blade ones. I got a Rick's replacement and proceeded w hard wiring the RR. I eliminated the 3 harness yellows going straight from RR to stator severing the link to the JB. The 'Oldheimer Troll' got me again! Thanks,GJ
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-09-2014, 12:06 PM
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No problem
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-09-2014, 07:01 PM
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There is a bit more to Testing a diode then just putting a meter on it and checking the resistance. Basically current will only flow through a diode in one direction.
With that said it depends what leg of the diode you put the red and black meter leads on. There should be a diode setting on your meter this is what needs to be used. Check it out on YouTube.
If I'm not mistaken to properly test a diode you would have to remove it from the circuit or at least isolate one of the leads.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-09-2014, 09:02 PM Thread Starter
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I did remember something about not testing in place. I think that is the cause of varied meter readings. That is solved and jumpy tach/miss much better after more circuit fiddling-now tachs clean until 6k then jumps to 8. Have to wait a day or so for next road test due to rain.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-09-2014, 09:22 PM
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actually most the time you can test a diode in place. using the diode setting on the dvm you should read partial continuity one way , for example a popular diode often used reads .740 with the black lead on the side of the diode with the line marked on it. if the diode reads a reading like .740, or .580 or something like that one way, and open or a reading like 1.xxx the other way , the diode is probly good. if it reads open both ways it is bad. if it has another device connected in parallel it may read some funky number both ways and then you should isolate it to be sure, but heat can damage a semiconductor if in excess so I never isolate unless I need to.


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stator mod and r/r mod
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-09-2014, 10:00 PM
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If they are questionable. Go grab some 4004's and change them. Diode check using the diode feature. Resistance does not prove much.

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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-09-2014, 10:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mercury View Post
If they are questionable. Go grab some 4004's and change them. Diode check using the diode feature. Resistance does not prove much.
Actually in this case they are working right.. The op started that the trigger wrote is disconnected
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-10-2014, 07:18 AM
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Didn't read that. But my statement still holds validity.

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