Join Date: May 2008
Location: Middle of the Mitten
Mine came stock painted Black, I don't know, maybe because the engine came that way too.
Found this little tid bit about heat sinks, which is what the outside of R/R is.
This is one of the reasons that aluminium is so popular as a heatsink material - it can be anodised, and black dye is then introduced into the porous layer of aluminium oxide. This is far thinner than any coat of paint, and is very effective. Copper is actually a far better conductor of heat, but cannot be anodised, and its colour is such that it is a naturally terrible radiator. Such is life. Oxidised copper (kinda, sorta like anodising) is passably effective, but rarely used due to its cost.
Table 3 shows the "emissivity" of various surfaces. This is a measure of their ability to emit infra-red radiation (heat), and a figure of 1 is as good as it gets for a passive heatsink (i.e. no heat pumps or the like). This list is not exhaustive, but is a fair indicator for the most common surface treatments.
Polished aluminium 0.05
Polished copper 0.07
Rolled sheet steel 0.66
Oxidised copper 0.70
Black anodised aluminium 0.70 - 0.90
Black air-drying enamel 0.85 - 0.91
Dark varnish 0.89 - 0.93
Black oil paint 0.92 - 0.96
Table 3 - Emissivity of Various Surface Treatments
Emissivity refers to radiation, which is only a relatively minor (typically 25% or less) but still important means of dissipating the heat. Most heat is conducted to the air at the surface boundary, and although black oil paint has excellent emissivity, it will also insulate the fins from the air. Overall, as discussed above, about the best treatment is black anodising, but matte black automotive type lacquer is also very good (IMO) - provided it is applied as thinly as possible
Small Sport Windshield
Home built coasters
Kaw touring front fender
1990 Fuel tank
Kenda Kruz 110/90-19 & 170/80-15 tires
NGK Iridium plugs
NGK plug caps and 7mm copper core wires.
My VN700 pic's