Help Please, semi urgent - Regulator/Rectifier test readings? - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-25-2014, 09:35 PM Thread Starter
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Exclamation Help Please, semi urgent - Regulator/Rectifier test readings?

Stranded away from home, tools, parts and friendly shops. The owner of my crash pad is leaving state in 2 days so I need to clear out or push my bike 600 miles haha.

Stator windings all read 0.50 (within range of 0.34 to 0.52). Haven't checked running because battery is still on a charger.

R/R readings are as follows. I'm confused about some of them because the test procedure says to be sure to use the 100 (200) range and they read infinite (good) at that range, but not at higher ranges.

A1-A3 between each other, 1 (infinite)

B-M 30.7 @ 200k, 1 at 2M range, 1 at 200 range (Is this infinite or 30.7k ohms? Is this ok?)
B-G 20.4 @ 200k, 1 at 200 range (inf or ok?)
B-A123 15.4 @ 200k, 1 at 200 range (inf or ok?)

M-B 15.1k, 1 at 200 range (OK)
M-G 20.5, 1 at 200 range (OK)
M-A123 1 at all ranges (OK?)

G-B 1 at all ranges (Should be < 2 k ?)
G-M 1 at all ranges (should be < 5 k ?)
G-A123 1 at all ranges (Should be .2 - .6 k?)

A123-B 15.3 at 200k for all 3 (15k and should be 200-600 ohms?)
A123-M 1 for all 3 (OK)
A123-G 1 for all 3 (OK)

So.... it looks like the R/R is shot again? Can I get a confirmation on this before I throw money at it? Thanks!

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post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-25-2014, 10:27 PM
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A1-A-3 Good
B-M Infinite (M-B anywhere from 100,000 Ohms to infinite is good)
B-G should read infinite
M-A123 Good

G-B Bad
G-M Bad
G-A123 Bad

A123-B Bad
A123- G Good
A123 - M Good

Yes your R/R is bad again. get a MOFSET R/R
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post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-26-2014, 01:00 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the confirmation.

Maybe my brain is just fried from stress and working in this heat, but I'm still wondering about some of the readings that are infinite at the specified setting (100/200) but give for example 30.7 at 200k setting. Since the procedure says be sure to set to 100, does that mean it only needs to read 1.00 at that 100 ohm range? Or does it need to have have no continuity or at least extremely high (100,000) resistance?

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post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-26-2014, 01:56 AM
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post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-28-2014, 05:42 PM Thread Starter
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Another new R/R looks like it's testing bad. Again, do the values that should be infinite only NEED to read infinite at the specified range or just very high? How the heck can 2 new parts both be bad in largely the same way? This one hasn't even been plugged in yet.

(ok) A1-A3 between each other, 1 (infinite)

(ok) B-M inf
(?) B-G inf at 100 ohm range as specified but 31.4 k at 200k range?
(?) B-A123, also inf at 100 ohm range as specified, but range 15.5k to 16k at 200k range?

(ok) M-B inf
(ok) M-G 20.0 k
(ok) M-A123 inf on all

(bad?) G-B inf all ranges, should be 0.4 to 2 k?
(bad?) G-M inf all ranges, should be 1-5 k?
(ok) G-A123 inf on all

(bad?) A123-B inf on all, should read 0.2 to 0.6K ohm(200 to 600 ohm)
(ok) A123-M inf on all
(?) A123-G inf at 100 ohm specified range, Reads 15.6k, 15.3 k, 15.1 k on 200k?

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post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-28-2014, 07:01 PM
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I will get back to you on this... My notes are at the house
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post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-28-2014, 07:04 PM
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its entirely possible that more modern multimeters (from what makaw provides the numbers for resistance measurements) cannot properly forward bias the diodes on the resistance settings.. the diode check settings will do so (provides a high bias voltage, as well as allowing more current flow than the resistance ranges allows).

therefore, according to the test results you posted using the diode test function, then I would say your new RR is ok.

wait, did a post just go away??? I could have sworn that hex posted a test of the RR that showed the diodes where ok.... (using a different test method)

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Last edited by michiganteddybear; 08-28-2014 at 07:06 PM.
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post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-28-2014, 08:11 PM
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before I would do anything, I would check the stator output on all 3 wires, I'm just saying.....


99 vn750A15
stator mod and r/r mod
ignition coil mod
ignitor power circuit and ground circuit mod
ear shave rejet 142/42 plus .040 shimmed
vance and hines exhaust no baffles
custom paint
volt meter
petcock mod
new backrest and pad (no pic yet)
cooling fan cut off switch mod
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AGM Battery

did all the mods and repair work and custom paint myself. except exhaust.
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post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-28-2014, 08:36 PM Thread Starter
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Idk about that other post. I put the same link on the facebook group. Diode check suggests both the newest and 2nd newest R/R (my first failed test results) are both ok.

Stator leads are not grounded (> 2 M Ohms).
Stator leads give 0.5, 0.5, and 0.4 Ohms between pairs.
I haven't had a second pair of hands to help me check stator output since Canada when I got a NEW stator installed. New stator leads only give around 11 V at idle and 13.5 V, 13.5 V, 14.5 V between pairs as close as I can hold it to 4000 RPM. Leads are unplugged from anything else, no load. This is the correct way to measure them rather than checking to ground since there wouldn't be a complete circuit, right?

Please tell me there's some bizarre reason for this meter to not read that correctly. I have the meter set to 200 VAC for sure but it's giving what I'd expect for DCV at that RPM...

Why would all 3 legs be doing the same thing?

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post #10 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-28-2014, 08:49 PM
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stator test is AC volts.. if your reading that low (unloaded) then its probably bad, assuming that the meter is working/set correctlly.

I would not expect to see any DC voltage on the stator legs

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Last edited by michiganteddybear; 08-28-2014 at 08:51 PM.
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