New stator install - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Electrical
Where does this wire go?
Includes Electrical mods, Lights, Stator,
Rectifier, Diagrams, etc

 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-23-2014, 12:23 PM Thread Starter
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New stator install

2004 VN750 38,000 miles. I've had it about a month and have had a few electrical issues. Headlight comes on about 1/4 of the time but when it does it stays on. Battery is not being recharged also. Installed a née regulator/rectifier and also repaired the wiring harness due to the fact that the black wire port was burnt up and clip was broken off. Cleaned up Ann my grounds and connections and replaced the battery. I tested my stator and at about 2,000 RPM's I have 25 AC volts coming out of two of the three yellow wires and 0.00 coming from the third. I bought a new stator and gasket for his reason am about to install it. I have not tested the bike since I replaced the regulator/rectifier and repaired the wiring harness. I'm looking for any advice or tips. Also does the motor indeed have to be removed to install the stator as my Clymer Manuel suggests? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-23-2014, 04:24 PM
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If you look the forward side cover bolt is behind the frame. I pulled the engine when I changed my stator. Some on here says you can do it with an engine tilt, leaving the motor resting on the frame and tilting it just enough to remove the cover.
I took several photos that would assist me reinstalling the motor. Good luck!!!!
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-23-2014, 09:15 PM
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It is simplest to just slide the engine out the right side frame in my opition, I tried the engine tilt idea and it ate up 3 hours while I tried to figure it out.

I did not remove carbs or throttle cables, just took off enough to slip the engine out the ride side of the frame and swap the stator.

Keep in mind you'll want a gasket for the bevel case if you take that off, or parts for the final drive if you go that way to disconnect the drive shaft from the engine. might as well lube the splines while you have the thing open if you havene't, they will have been packed dry by the factory on the 2004 model (the one I have too)

GOOD LUCK!

There are many walkthrough on this forum also, look in the vulcan verses and do a search, it helped me a lot!

'04 Vulcan 750 27k+
My first ride- June 2013 @ 22k miles
Stator replaced 27k

"It is the mark of an educated mind to be able to entertain a thought without accepting it." - Aristotle.

"I have never let my schooling interfere with my education"- Mark Twain.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-24-2014, 12:22 PM
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The engine has to be tilted to the right to get it out of the frame if you leave the front bevel drive gearcase in place, which I recommend doing. It can be a real pain to put that thing back on with both the engine and driveshaft in place. There is a strong spring behind it, making it hard to seat against the engine. While dealing with that, you also have to keep the gasket in place, engage the driveshaft splines, and deal with the rubber boot. If you had four hands it would be easy.

But the engine comes out fine without removing the gearcase or any part of the final drive. Once you have it supported, everything removed, and all the bolts out, slowly slide it forward, watching out for the shift shaft. As the shift shaft gets closer to the frame, start turning the engine toward the right. There is just enough room to get it out of the lower rear mounts without banging the shift shaft on the frame. You need to be careful with the shift shaft, banging on it can break something inside the engine. It's pretty fragile.



The bevel drive gearcase is still on the engine, and the final drive gearcase, swingarm, and driveshaft are still in place. When reinstalling the engine, the rear wheel will likely need to be turned slightly to re engage the engine output splines with the U-joint.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike

Last edited by VN750Rider/Jerry; 08-24-2014 at 12:28 PM.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-24-2014, 01:46 PM
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Smile

Thank you for that very descriptive post. My second 2000vn750 was basically bought for parts but lately I have been thinking on fixing and selling it. The girl I bought it from laid it down on the left side and something got jammed in the shift mechanism. I am planning to pull the engine and get inside to see what got damaged and your post will be very helpful. I don't want to take the whole thing apart if it is unnecessary. If I can fix the shift problem, replace the twisted fork, and replace the signals it should be a good ride for someone.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-24-2014, 03:25 PM
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I believe in most cases repairing a broken internal shift mechanism requires splitting the cases. There is one exception, where the shifter still works, but has a lot of in and out play. You can remove the shifter from the shaft and put a spacer between the engine and shifter, so the shaft can't slide in or out. That does not actually fix it internally, more like a bandaid solution, but it can last a very long time. You might want to look through Roache's videos, he did a whole series of great videos on completely rebuilding a VN750 engine. They are way better than those grainy pictures in the manuals.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-24-2014, 03:48 PM
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Thanks

I have actually watched that series of videos from end to end ( a bit obsessive maybe?). LOL I have to get it from my buddies house and it looks like I will have a great winter project. Knowing me, I will probably rebuild the whole thing and just have a second bike to ride! LOL We'll have to see how it goes.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-24-2014, 05:42 PM
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While I used a one gallon paint bucket with a magazine on top to slide the engine out on, it felt a little wobbly on that, so I had a friend help me move it to this. I built this dolly years ago, for VW engines. I pushed it under the car, put shims between it and the engine, unbolted the engine and rolled it back till it cleared the transmission shaft, then jacked the car up and rolled the engine out from under it. I recently found it in the garage. It measures exactly the same height as the paint bucket and magazine. It makes a great workstand, and when I go to put the engine back in, it will be an easy one person job. You just put the engine in place, then use shims between the engine and the dolly to raise the engine a tiny bit so the mounting bolt holes line up perfectly.

By far the biggest issue with pulling the engine on this bike is removing all the other parts. Once you do that, the engine comes out easily in less than 15 minutes.






I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike
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