Odd voltage issue - Page 2 - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Electrical
Where does this wire go?
Includes Electrical mods, Lights, Stator,
Rectifier, Diagrams, etc

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post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-11-2014, 01:55 PM Thread Starter
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Can you explain that a bit more? For now I'm just rigging my cheap multi-meter up, but going forward (considering the issues I've had), I'd like something a bit more permanent eventually.
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post #12 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-11-2014, 02:06 PM
..have a vulcan good day!
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kagaku View Post
Can you explain that a bit more? For now I'm just rigging my cheap multi-meter up, but going forward (considering the issues I've had), I'd like something a bit more permanent eventually.
I have installed the Ignition Coil Mod...a relay(available at most automotive stores) which supplies +12volts directly from the battery onto the Ignition Coils (hence +14 volts at 5K rpm)....the relay is triggered via rear coil 12v (red ?) lead which is switched on/off via the Ignition Switch (EDIT: relay will operate properly on 7-16 volts). The front coil harness 12v lead is taped off.
(meter ON only when Ignition ON). I mounted the Relay inside the Right frame, in front of battery box, with a Zip Tie.

hth

'86 VN750 13,700 mi -Stock
-Purchased 2008 w/8800mi
Replaced ALL Cables . Kuryakyn LED Voltmeter
SilverStar Ultra 9003/HB2 H4 Headlamp, Jardine Fwd Controls,
Iridiums DPR7EIX-9 & Wires, Tuxedo Mod, Coil Mod, P/U Sensor Mod, Fork Seals,
Splines Lubed - 11/4/2012 - MF AGM Battery
Additional Flashing LED Brake Light on Trunk
Dampers went out @ 13+K !
After TOC MCCT's..... so amazingly quiet I discovered a rattling heat shield on my stock exhaust !
...have a vulcan good day!

Last edited by WilliamTech; 08-11-2014 at 02:42 PM.
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post #13 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-11-2014, 02:11 PM Thread Starter
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I think I understand..so basically, the relay will allow the volt meter to only read from the battery as long as the ignition is switched on?
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post #14 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-11-2014, 02:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kagaku View Post
I think I understand..so basically, the relay will allow the volt meter to only read from the battery as long as the ignition is switched on?
Yes, that is correct.
You will need to purchase a Meter, and a Relay, hopefully already have 24-30" of wire, a few (6 ?) terminal lugs, a crimper/wire stripper and a Zip Tie .
I have a LED Digital Meter sticky taped to my Handle Bar Clamp.


'86 VN750 13,700 mi -Stock
-Purchased 2008 w/8800mi
Replaced ALL Cables . Kuryakyn LED Voltmeter
SilverStar Ultra 9003/HB2 H4 Headlamp, Jardine Fwd Controls,
Iridiums DPR7EIX-9 & Wires, Tuxedo Mod, Coil Mod, P/U Sensor Mod, Fork Seals,
Splines Lubed - 11/4/2012 - MF AGM Battery
Additional Flashing LED Brake Light on Trunk
Dampers went out @ 13+K !
After TOC MCCT's..... so amazingly quiet I discovered a rattling heat shield on my stock exhaust !
...have a vulcan good day!

Last edited by WilliamTech; 08-11-2014 at 02:43 PM.
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post #15 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-11-2014, 03:00 PM Thread Starter
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Alright so the quick and dirty hacked together volt meter worked. I rode about 5 miles, everything was fine the first mile or so, and then suddenly my voltage went nuts, jumping around between 10 and 18-19 volts. I almost thought I had a loose connection, but then it leveled out....at 18.7-19.2 volts when riding.

When I stopped at a light and kicked it into neutral, it went down to 13.1 to 14.3 volts. This fluctuated, but never went above 14.3 when idling in neutral.

As soon as I'd take off and hit 3rd gear, 18-19 volts. Anything over 18.5 volts and I'd get the crazy RPM gauge when revving the engine. At 18-18.4v, the bike rides ok, but sounds "off".

Gonna try it again tonight and see if the voltage spikes correspond to when my lights brighten. I'm assuming they do.

Does this mean I have a bad R/R? I'm also going to assume here; I probably need a new one.

'92 Kawasaki Vulcan 750

Mods:
Rattle-can high gloss black paint job
Frame, engine, Headers/exhaust painted satin black
Ears shaved, K&N pod filters
TPE Stator, MOSFET R/R, Magna Power AGM battery
Pickup Coil mod
New mirrors, grips, cables
VN900 seat
Straight pipes with 8" baffles
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post #16 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-11-2014, 03:01 PM Thread Starter
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Photo of the aforementioned hacked together quick and dirty volt meter job. :-)

'92 Kawasaki Vulcan 750

Mods:
Rattle-can high gloss black paint job
Frame, engine, Headers/exhaust painted satin black
Ears shaved, K&N pod filters
TPE Stator, MOSFET R/R, Magna Power AGM battery
Pickup Coil mod
New mirrors, grips, cables
VN900 seat
Straight pipes with 8" baffles
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post #17 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-11-2014, 03:09 PM
..have a vulcan good day!
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kagaku View Post
Alright so the quick and dirty hacked together volt meter worked. I rode about 5 miles, everything was fine the first mile or so, and then suddenly my voltage went nuts, jumping around between 10 and 18-19 volts. I almost thought I had a loose connection, but then it leveled out....at 18.7-19.2 volts when riding.

When I stopped at a light and kicked it into neutral, it went down to 13.1 to 14.3 volts. This fluctuated, but never went above 14.3 when idling in neutral.

As soon as I'd take off and hit 3rd gear, 18-19 volts. Anything over 18.5 volts and I'd get the crazy RPM gauge when revving the engine. At 18-18.4v, the bike rides ok, but sounds "off".

Gonna try it again tonight and see if the voltage spikes correspond to when my lights brighten. I'm assuming they do.

Does this mean I have a bad R/R? I'm also going to assume here; I probably need a new one.
without re-reading the whole thread....check out ALL your electrical connections....Remove & Clean ALL grounds....check connector at R/R....Clean Contacts ! 18-19 volts can/will fry your electronics / battery !
... have you checked the Stator AC voltage output ?



EDIT: Did I mention Remove and CLEAN ALL Grounds ? LOL

'86 VN750 13,700 mi -Stock
-Purchased 2008 w/8800mi
Replaced ALL Cables . Kuryakyn LED Voltmeter
SilverStar Ultra 9003/HB2 H4 Headlamp, Jardine Fwd Controls,
Iridiums DPR7EIX-9 & Wires, Tuxedo Mod, Coil Mod, P/U Sensor Mod, Fork Seals,
Splines Lubed - 11/4/2012 - MF AGM Battery
Additional Flashing LED Brake Light on Trunk
Dampers went out @ 13+K !
After TOC MCCT's..... so amazingly quiet I discovered a rattling heat shield on my stock exhaust !
...have a vulcan good day!

Last edited by WilliamTech; 08-11-2014 at 03:19 PM.
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post #18 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-11-2014, 04:56 PM
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I would set your multi meter to ohms and tap the red lead into one of your stator leads and leave the black one grounded to the battery... Reading should be OL or 1 depending on your meter... If you get any thing other than those two r readings while riding, then you have a bad stator.
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post #19 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-12-2014, 08:47 PM Thread Starter
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...ok, so that didn't go so well. I pulled off the fuel tank and started checking all the electrical connections. Wherever I had previously fixed or replaced a wire I inspected, as well as looking at all the existing wiring. As far as I could tell, I didn't have any ground faults or shorts anywhere. I did notice my choke cable is broken, barely holding together by a few strands (outside is completely separated).

So that left the stator wires. I re-mounted the fuel tank, put everything back together except the side panel and got ready to test the A/C voltage coming off the stator wires. I have all three wires exposed, but zip tied apart so they don't touch anything. This allows me to easily clip the leads from my multimeter onto each one to test.

I went to start the bike and..nothing. Turned over and over, and over... and over.. nothing! Finally, I noticed in my haste I neglected to re-attach my front right spark plug cable. Whoops! Re-attached and tried again. Nothing. Gave it a few minutes thinking it was flooded and tried again, nope.

Finally I pulled the plugs one by one and tested for spark. All four plugs are sparking just fine, and the plugs smelled like gas when I pulled them. At this point I'm assuming the battery is low from all that cranking. I hooked jumper cables up to my car and tried starting again...

..this time it started right up! And shot straight up to 5,000 RPM with full choke applied. I lowered the choke (by pushing it in on the carbs, broken cable now) and checked the idler screw... and the lowest it will go is 4,000 RPM. I checked the throttle cable, but that seems fine. If I rev the engine it responds as I'd expect, just at 4,000 RPM and up.

I have no idea what I could have messed with aside from choke/throttle/idle screw that can affect the base RPM. Got frustrated and called it a day for now.

Help!
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post #20 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-13-2014, 09:07 PM Thread Starter
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Alright, fresh look at things today. Throttle was sticking, causing the issue.

Finally tested the stator, at idle RPM and at 3500-4000 RPM I get the same reading between all three poles.. 11 to 11.5v

I knew it was going bad, when I first tested it back in April/May I was getting about 30-35v.. is it typical for it to go that bad that fast? Also, would this cause my voltage spikes?

Thanks!
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