It looks like I've got a broken wire and melted the plug...... which I have now fixed. I was having an issue with charging, has anyone seen this particular issue?

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I've repaired the issue now it seems like it's okay. I've checked all my grounds and cleaned all my connections. I'm still having a slight dimming of the headlight when I hit the brakes.

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I would consider dimming of the headlight normal if idling and you turn on the brake light, as long as the system is stock (no mosfet r/r installed).

at idle, the system barely produces 'brake even' (generates as much as the bike needs, not leaveing any for charging battery) amount of power.

I'll tell you a very good telltale sign to having voltage issues on this bike is that when you go to start it will backfire very loudly. For whatever reason when the voltage drops it doesn't spark enough and then dumps fuel and when it does hit it just blows it right out the pipes. About the time I started having voltage issues a few weeks ago it started backfiring very loudly at the time I would start it. Once the voltage issue was fixed it quit doing it entirely. It may be worth noting that if you're having these backfires upon starting your voltage may be lower than nominal. Clearly it does not do it when it's getting full voltage at start and the ignition has what it needs while the starter is rotating and draining the potential of the battery.

another cause of backfiring when starting (especially warm/hot starts) is the pickup coils. they are gapped at the factory somewhere around 1 mile from the rotor. pull them in to around .020 and it will start without backfiring much more reliably.

voltage MAY have an effect on this as well

yeah i had that same issue when i first got the bike it is common you might consider the r/r relocation mod

I would relocate it other than the fact that is snake oil. As an engineer it's clear to me why voltage regulator was placed where was. There is absolutely no heat source underneath it whatsoever. Moving it higher only moves it upwards where the heat is going. The so-called belly is actually an inverted tower designed to force heat around it not under it. With everything going around it and nothing underneath it for heat source, heat rises it's the coolest place it could be. Residual blowback heat off the casing is irrelevant because the exhaust is the only thing that holds the most heat and it is not anywhere near the voltage regulator on either side and level with it so heat cannot go sideways it must go upwards only. Directly under the voltage regulator and anywhere near it within several inches is nothing but cold blue sky. If the persons doing this mod would look at the engineering aspect of it from a thermal dynamics point of view they would understand where the heat is going not just cause it's warm under there supposedly. It may be warm on your thighs over and everything but the voltage regulator is nearly as low as it can possibly be in the bike and heat is not there, it's just simple physics. I've already used two thermal guns to see if this is correct and it is just as the design itself says it will be.

I won't stop anybody from moving their regulators up higher above the exhaust were all of the heat is going to come up but I can't do that myself.

^ I always thought the same thing and have said there is no proof showing moving the R/R does anything.

But you do need to put a tempature sensor in the stock location and one at the reccomended relocation point and go for a ride to determine which in fact is cooler. My guess is as long as the bikes moving to outboard spot would be cooler even if its above the muffler. What real difference this makes would also have to be shown to me as no one has any info on how hot an R/R can get before it starts to malfunction.


(Engineers....lol)

Common.mine was down for a few days with regulator issues .the. backfiring is normal. for low voltage as well.

I relocated mine cause i lowered and the swingarm was smacking the regulator hard enough to break the battery box.