My remove reinstall Rectifier - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Electrical
Where does this wire go?
Includes Electrical mods, Lights, Stator,
Rectifier, Diagrams, etc

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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-05-2014, 06:26 PM Thread Starter
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My remove reinstall Rectifier

Wow how much fun!!Pretty much had to loosen the battery box and some of those nice/neat connections to get to those Rectifier bolts.Got it out,put stuff back...decided to put the Rectifier out there by the rear tire.Used heavy/tight Zip ties (2) seems very stable but I will continue to check it.(Plug not in yet,gonna get some die-electric grease) Took my time so job was hour long,not too bad.

Last edited by vulkan; 09-19-2014 at 03:07 PM.
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-05-2014, 06:36 PM
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Wow how much fun!!Pretty much had to loosen the battery box and some of those nice/neat connections to get to those Rectifier bolts.Got it out,put stuff back...decided to put the Rectifier out there by the rear tire.Used heavy/tight Zip ties (2) seems very stable but I will continue to check it.(Plug not in yet,gonna get some die-electric grease) Took my time so job was hour long,not too bad.
I would at least fabricate some metal mounting brackets for it. Those wire ties may melt. It also looks a bit loose, like it might get caught in the rear wheel.

Someone here had a mounting bracket designed to mount the R/R solidly to the bike, without having to cut and splice any wires.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
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1979 Vespa P200E
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-05-2014, 07:08 PM Thread Starter
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Someone else on this forum "bearded cowboy"??Used Zip ties to put it behinde that side cover.Dont think the Rectifier gets HOT,but not sure.
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-05-2014, 09:14 PM Thread Starter
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Also found this...Quote (Instead of putting it out where the wires were so exposed above the left passenger footpeg where it showed and the wires could be hit with an erant shoe I instead decided to mount it on the back (inside) of the plastic side plate using (( Scotch double stick outdoor foam tape)) HomeDepot in the paint section). Scotch (double side) tape would definatly "melt" before my thick ties...and the ties are TIGHT.
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-06-2014, 05:37 PM Thread Starter
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OK made this in about 15 min......solid/tight,good to go!

Last edited by vulkan; 09-19-2014 at 03:07 PM.
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-06-2014, 05:44 PM Thread Starter
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Oh yes and no "notch" to side cover because I came up from the foot-peg bolt.
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-06-2014, 05:47 PM Thread Starter
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AND....I do plan on "Water-proofing" that connector...soon as I get a chance!! (Tommarow??)
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-06-2014, 06:13 PM Thread Starter
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Here it is,Wolfie put this [Quote....I just took zip ties and strapped it to the 2 framerails just inside the left side cover...cheaper and easier than doing the mount IMO.....the idea is to get it away from the exhast system (as it overheats then burns out).....mines been fine there since I replaced it End Quote] No big deal now.
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-08-2014, 03:36 PM
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I did mine like the photo below. An aluminum bracket that slips under the passenger foot peg mount. I mounted the R/R to the plate with some bolts. I kept the original wires since they were long enough and put the connector facing down to allow water to drain out of the connector if it ever got wet. I used dielectric grease on the connector.
It has worked flawlessly and is solid after 2 years.
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-08-2014, 05:37 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks kc2dgg,put die-electric grease on mine too... then slathered that "liquid" wire coating on connector.
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