cost of a new stator - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-28-2007, 04:16 PM Thread Starter
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cost of a new stator

Hello everyone,
Hope you all are doing great, Ive been hearing about the stators getting to hot where they are at , Mine is fine but I also have heard its a pretty big job to move it as well, so I was wandering just how much are these things??
I hear they are expensive? But just trying to get an idea of what I might be looking at for the cost of one if mine ever goes out? I have a 1989 VN750A
the charging system is fine at this time,also if someone was to remove the Goats Belly could you get to the stator easier that way?? Just curious about all this thats all,If anyone has time let me know what you think.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-28-2007, 05:39 PM
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Has anyone rebuilt a stator or had one rebuilt?

DT
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-28-2007, 06:11 PM
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I don't think removing the goat's belly alone will will let you remove the stator - although you'll need to remove the exhaust in order to remove the engine in order to replace the stator! So I guess in that sense removing the goat's belly helps to replace the stator!

Some people have talked about modifying the frame to add a removable piece on the left side lower frame. (Like the one on the right side.) This would allow you to replace the stator without removing the engine. In an old post I read, Hyper talked about doing it but I am not sure if he ever did. Hyper?

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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-29-2007, 04:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scoop View Post
Some people have talked about modifying the frame to add a removable piece on the left side lower frame. (Like the one on the right side.) This would allow you to replace the stator without removing the engine. In an old post I read, Hyper talked about doing it but I am not sure if he ever did. Hyper?

I came close to doing it. Got a frame from eBay ($50 & local, so I picked it up), cut the section I needed from the left side and connectors from the right side, had everything ready to weld, them the time to put it all together became scarce due to mandatory overtime at work
I ended up taking the bike to the dealer and had them do the stator. I was expecting a bill of $700-$1000 or more.
Imagine my surprise when it came to just over $380!!! (not including parts except for coolant... I supplied the stator/gaskets/oil)

There have been two people I'm aware of that have done it though, Edalbris, and some guy from the Yahoo Group.
Edalbris has a pretty complete bunch of photos of his process HERE, in the gallery.
Unlike how he did it though, I was going to attempt it without removing the motor. The Yahoo guy said he did his that way, but after looking closely at what would be involved, it'd probably be alot easier to remove the motor to do it.

But..... with mention of removing the goatsbelly, I'm thinking Bill is referring to the R/R (regulator/rectifier) and not the stator?
Bill, the stator is inside the left side of the engine, the R/R is under the battery, which are you referring to?


AKA: Tim & 'The Adventure Cycle' VROC #24567, NEVROC, SteelCity VROC


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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-29-2007, 09:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buffalo bill View Post
Hello everyone,
Hope you all are doing great, Ive been hearing about the stators getting to hot where they are at , Mine is fine but I also have heard its a pretty big job to move it as well, so I was wandering just how much are these things??
I hear they are expensive? But just trying to get an idea of what I might be looking at for the cost of one if mine ever goes out? I have a 1989 VN750A
the charging system is fine at this time,also if someone was to remove the Goats Belly could you get to the stator easier that way?? Just curious about all this thats all,If anyone has time let me know what you think.
First off, let's clear a few things up.. I think we are talking two different things. The stator is housed in the left side lower case behind the round cover. The R/R (Regulator/Recitifier) is under the battery case and above the goat's belly.
Usually we move the R/R out over the left passenger footpeg bracket. The stator can be removed with an engine tilt, but it can't be relocated someplace else on the bike.

Stators run about $150 to $180 for aftermarket ones. OEM ones about $300.
R/R run from $90 to $120 or so.

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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-29-2007, 11:23 AM Thread Starter
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Clarification

O.K. sorry guys i was talking about the R/R now i feel like an idiot
but I am also glad to know how much i would be looking at if I have to change my stator I appreciate all the info, But i believe I need to move the R/R cause of the heat down there also my Goats belly on one side is kind of rusted and i would like to know if there is something i can paint on the goats belly to protect it from rusting any more? At this time there is no harm to it but if i do not take care of it I am sure the rust would eat a hole thru there??
anyways sorry about the confusion everyone i wont make that mistake again
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-29-2007, 02:42 PM
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Don't worry about it Bill, I'm sure we've all done something similar at one time or another, like when, on another forum, I posted a video clip of the 3 Rivers Stadium in Pgh. being demolished, yet in my post I refered to it a few times as the Pgh. Civic Arena, even after watching the video several times!!
And I'm from the Pgh. area!!!

But onto the goatsbelly... I think if you're concerned about rust, it'd be best to remove it, get all the rust sanded off, then paint with heat resistant paint.
Or, keep an eye on eBay for one in better shape.


AKA: Tim & 'The Adventure Cycle' VROC #24567, NEVROC, SteelCity VROC


"When life throws you curves,
Aim for the apex."

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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-29-2007, 09:24 PM
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Bill

I just did this job last week on mine. It's pretty simple. Just disconnect everything from the box (make sure you diagram or take pics so you know how it goes back together) Once disconnected/unbolted, you can fanagle the box out of the frame. I took a wire wheel to mine to eliminate the surface corrosion, then painted with a good metal primer and heat tolerant paint. While there, I removed the R/R from the bottom for the relocate. Make sure you clean all the electrical contacts as your putting it back together. Check out the R/R relocate info on this site for the how to on that project. I cut my own bracket and did the relocate at the rear left footpeg. I did a 3/4 inch s curve on the bracket to inset it closer in the frame thus allowing better clearance for the foot peg.The entire project, not counting drying time for the paint took me about two hours.

Regards.....Cassack

Last edited by Cassack; 11-30-2007 at 03:58 PM.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-30-2007, 10:55 AM
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Is it easier to remove the goats belly to remove the R/R - or the battery and box? I'm going to lube the splines and move the R/R over xmas break so I can breathe easier.

Thanks! Mark
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-30-2007, 12:47 PM
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there's no need to remove the GB to remove the R/R. I removed my R/R "Fergy" style - check how he did it... a 15 minute job. IIRC ya remove the battery but not the box, it does require a drill though....

http://pages.tstar.net/~fergy/writeu..._relocate.html

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