Headlight cut off - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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Where does this wire go?
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-10-2007, 10:02 AM Thread Starter
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Headlight cut off

Thursday night as I was on the way home from work, I stopped for gas about 6 miles from home. When I cranked the bike, my headlight did not work. All the other lights worked. I called my wife, turned the flashers on and followed her back home. Today, I removed the sealed beam (the plug was tight) checked the bulb and it had continuity. I then cranked the bike and I had voltage in the plug. I plugged the light back in and it worked. Anyone have any ideas? I don't need the light to go out when I am not in as safe a place as I was the other night.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-10-2007, 10:20 AM
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A couple of thoughts for things to check: the 8-pin connector on the junction box is tied to your headlight fuse and headlight relay. Trace the wiring and make sure there's not a problem with the relay. The other thing that occurs to me is that the reserve lighting device should have kicked in... (R/Y coming off the headlight, B/Y at the reserve unit). Check the leads on the unit and make sure they're solid. Sounds like it's definitely a wiring issue and not the bulb.

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-16-2007, 09:03 AM Thread Starter
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I finally figured out that the headlight is tied to the ignition in some way. All lights except the headlight come on when the ignition is on. The headlight does not come on until the engine is cranked. Sometimes mine comes on sometimes it does not. Is there some type of switch that turns on the headlight when the bike is cranked? Electrical is not my strong suit.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-16-2007, 10:00 AM
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There is a diode/relay in the junction box that keeps your headlight off until the engine actually starts. this saves all of your battery juice for the initial start.
However when this diode/relay goes bad sometimes you are left without a headlight totally. There is a way to bypass it but you best make sure you have a maintenance free battery and it's charged because the headlight will come on as soon as the key is turned.

And the relay bypass instructions:

This can be bypassed to operate like an "other than US & Canada" VN750. (European models actually have a switch on the controls to turn the headlight on)
Look at the 8 pin connector going into the junction box. You will see that there are only 7 wires. Move the blue wire to the empty position and your headlight will come on when you turn the key on.
No more diodes, no more relay.

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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-16-2007, 01:52 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the advice Dianna. At this point, I am a little nervous about my charging system. I just bought a new maintenance-free battery but at 4000RPM, my volt/ohm meter reads only about 13.5 volts instead of the required 14.5. I wanted to know if the diode/relay in the junction box can be replaced? If not, until trace down the charging problem, I may have trouble cranking my bike with the headlight on constantly. I run a maintainer at night, but I worry about stopping for gas and having to restart on the way to work(about 33 miles).
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-16-2007, 04:30 PM
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A solution to the headlight on is o buy a simple toggle switch and hook that onto the blue wire which is then on the bypass. You canswitch the light on and off as you please. The placement of the toggle is up to you and real easy to do. Good Luck.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-17-2007, 01:15 PM
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the headlight is trigered by the power from your alternator if your r/r is playing up it won't always come on. but if you fined yourself without headlight again justfire up get her rolling at about 15mph pull in the clutch kill the engine will the handle bar kill switch (the headlight will now come on) put switch back to run and let out the clutch to bump start the bike, the headlight should still be on.hope this helps.
p.s. do check your r/r/ and alternator outputs.

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1952 NORTON (MODEL ONE) 'BIG 4'
1955 NORTON DOMINATOR 88/99 CAFE RACER
1981 KAWASAKI Z1000ST SHAFT
1988 KAWASAKI VN750 (UK) HARDTAIL + 5"
1988 KAWASAKI VULCAN 750 (US)

ALL TIME WISHLIST BIKES
1939 BROUGH SUPERIOR SS100 GRAND ALPINE SPORT
ANY 1940ish NORTON WITH CS1 ENGINE
A RIDE ON A NORTON NEMISIS 'A'
NEVER HAD A CAR LICENCE AND HOPFULLY NEVER WILL
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-19-2007, 11:10 AM Thread Starter
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EDALBRIS, thanks for the advice about the kill switch. Thar sounds fairly easy. I need some help with the R/R and alternator. Exactly where do they reside and how do I check them. Something is not right because at 4000RPM the output is 13.5 instead of 14.4 and I don't think my battery is charging fully.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-19-2007, 05:14 PM
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the r/r is mounted right under the battery cradle on the bottom.
there are two wiring looms that come out of the left hand engine casing go under the bevel box and the wing arm pivot and head up towards the battery, one of these is from the alternator (3 yellow wires ) unplug all three wires and check the readings out of each (the figures for what readings at what rpm you will find in the 'verses' section of this site).
on the r/r you will see a 6 pin plug(you might have to unbolt the r/r to get at it, there are two rows of three wires one row is all yellows(from the alternator) the middle wire in the other row is the power feed to the battery from the r/r, it is best to check the out put of this wire with it unpluged, for this i have made up five short male to female spade leads (about 4" long) so i can pull the whole plug out then link the other five terminals/wires back up using the leads so i can get my multimeter probe on the power feed terminal on the r/r. also check the yellow wires for continuity between here and were they join at the rear of the engine. hope this helps.
p.s. check out the 'verses' there is alot of usful info in there and they cover r/r and alternator testing quite well.

BEST OF HEALTH AND HAPPYNESS
EDALBRIS

1952 NORTON (MODEL ONE) 'BIG 4'
1955 NORTON DOMINATOR 88/99 CAFE RACER
1981 KAWASAKI Z1000ST SHAFT
1988 KAWASAKI VN750 (UK) HARDTAIL + 5"
1988 KAWASAKI VULCAN 750 (US)

ALL TIME WISHLIST BIKES
1939 BROUGH SUPERIOR SS100 GRAND ALPINE SPORT
ANY 1940ish NORTON WITH CS1 ENGINE
A RIDE ON A NORTON NEMISIS 'A'
NEVER HAD A CAR LICENCE AND HOPFULLY NEVER WILL
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-19-2007, 05:19 PM
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oh And Use Some Penertrating Oil On The Bolts That Hold The R/r On As They Are Usualy Rusted In, And Are Likly To Snap Before They Undo

BEST OF HEALTH AND HAPPYNESS
EDALBRIS

1952 NORTON (MODEL ONE) 'BIG 4'
1955 NORTON DOMINATOR 88/99 CAFE RACER
1981 KAWASAKI Z1000ST SHAFT
1988 KAWASAKI VN750 (UK) HARDTAIL + 5"
1988 KAWASAKI VULCAN 750 (US)

ALL TIME WISHLIST BIKES
1939 BROUGH SUPERIOR SS100 GRAND ALPINE SPORT
ANY 1940ish NORTON WITH CS1 ENGINE
A RIDE ON A NORTON NEMISIS 'A'
NEVER HAD A CAR LICENCE AND HOPFULLY NEVER WILL
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