Headlight cut off - Page 2 - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Electrical
Where does this wire go?
Includes Electrical mods, Lights, Stator,
Rectifier, Diagrams, etc

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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-19-2007, 11:42 PM
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If you are going to do any type of repair on the bike, I would recommend the Clymer's shop manual. It will answer many of your questions and has photos and drawings to explain things as well. It will also help you prevent inadvertant damage to the bike by telling you what not to do. The manual is well written and if you have any questions that the manual doesn't explain to your satisfaction, you then have the group here to back you up. It's only about 20 bucks or so online and is more than worth the small investment IMHO.

Jim W
93 VN 750 "Ursula"
Moved R/R 08Sep06
R/R rewire 17Feb07
New R/R, Installed 14Jun08
New Stator installed 10 Jun08
Maintenance Free Battery 12Jan08
21480 Miles
VROC #8542
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-20-2007, 07:59 AM
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To add to that: you can get the Vulcan service manual free via download off the TOC Manufacturing site. Between the two of 'em (Service and Clymer's), it's hard to go wrong; and if you do, as Niterider said, there's a whole group here to back you up.

Just some quick tips on testing the r/r and the stator: from your description of your charging (voltage at 4K rpm), definitely sounds like there's an issue with the r/r. Instead of pulling it out frmo underneath the battery box, though, some folks have just put a new r/r in at the relocation point (by the left frame side cover). Edalbris is spot-on, that those bolts under thebattery box are nearly impossible to get out. Just pull the connector, install the relo bracket, and put on a new r/r. Easiest solution, and the old r/r can just sit under there and be out of the way.

You want to test resistance across all three stator leads (all yellow). Between any two leads, I believe you should have a reading between .3-.5 ohms.
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-20-2007, 08:31 PM
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A very likely cause is a low battery, which could be caused by a bad stator.

Basic info:
When the key is turned ON, a circuit in the junction box prevents power to flow to the headlight. That allows maximum power for the starter motor. Pushing the start button engages the circuit, when the starter motor button is released, the headlight is on.

If the engine then dies, the headlight is still on. Pressing the starter button engages another circuit, killing the headlight when the button is pressed, once again for maximum power to the starter.

If the battery is low, or the junction box faulty, the circuit might not engage, leaving the engine on but headlight off. Fully charging the battery should fix the problem; also inspect the stator to see if it's bad. (Instructions in the Verses, or the sevice manual.)

Good luck! Start with charging the battery, see how it goes from there.
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