Voltage Too High - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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Where does this wire go?
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-11-2007, 09:17 AM Thread Starter
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Voltage Too High

I'm checking for an electrical problem. Last night, I started the bike and measured the voltage at the battery posts. At idle, I measured the voltage in the 13v -14v range. Moving off of idle, the voltage readings went up. I didn't break 18v, but I did see 17.9+v.

Can this be anything other than the regulator / rectifier?

Assuming I need a new R/R, is it best to go with the Kawasaki OEM R/R, or get one from another supplier? What is best brand - best price?

Second question: Is it still a good idea to put inline fuses on the three yellow wires from the stator? Does it really help protect the stator? If so, what should be the amp rating on the fuses?

Thanks.....
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-11-2007, 10:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TechMech View Post
I'm checking for an electrical problem. Last night, I started the bike and measured the voltage at the battery posts. At idle, I measured the voltage in the 13v -14v range. Moving off of idle, the voltage readings went up. I didn't break 18v, but I did see 17.9+v.

Can this be anything other than the regulator / rectifier?

Assuming I need a new R/R, is it best to go with the Kawasaki OEM R/R, or get one from another supplier? What is best brand - best price?

Second question: Is it still a good idea to put inline fuses on the three yellow wires from the stator? Does it really help protect the stator? If so, what should be the amp rating on the fuses?

Thanks.....
It is your r/r. Search the forum on r/r and you'll find plenty of info.

I put the fuses in, but don't think it is going to help much. By the time you blow a 20A fuse, the damage is already done.

Jon

93VN750, under re-construction
vn750.com Member # 828

Rick's Stator and R/R
MF AGM Battery
Coastered
Degoated
Shaved & Jetted
Iridium's
MAC Tapered Staggered Pipes
Battery/Temp/Clock Gauge
Stainless Steel Brake Lines
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-11-2007, 10:14 AM
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Definately sounds like the R/R. Check your stator as well just to be on the safe side.

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-11-2007, 10:25 AM
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First, confirm that your meter is accurate.

- Safety First

Paul

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-11-2007, 10:29 AM
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Someone else correct me if I'm wrong - but this does in fact sound like a classic R/R failure. Your stator puts out quite a few volts (70ish AC volts IIRC) and the R/R converts it into DC at a lower voltage. Ricks seems to be the R/R of choice - I'd personally be wary of the RMSTATOR R/R that's been talked about recently because of some likely false claims on there website (which would lead me to expect shoddy/ incomplete build quaility).

The general consensus on the board is that fusing is no longer a good idea.

Ya'll can jump in and disagree with me ;-)

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-11-2007, 11:22 AM Thread Starter
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"The general consensus on the board is that fusing is no longer a good idea." That's why I think this forum is great: I get the benefit of a lot of people's experiences. It saves a lot of trial and error time....

Thanks......
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-12-2007, 01:39 AM
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Not only no longer fused but still... do not try to dress it up a bit by wrapping the wires up to look neet..... leave them loose as they are other wise they will over heat and burn up.

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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-13-2007, 07:29 AM Thread Starter
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I wanted to give an update and some information (which is probably already on the site somewhere.....)

I have placed an order for a Rick's Motorsport Electrics R/R (I hope it is better than the Kawasaki OEM unit....)

I also found the "Diode Testing Procedure - Forward and Reverse Bias Testing" document at www.electrexusa.com. Great document! I never could really deal with the procedures for testing R/R resistance found in the various manuals. What are there, something over 21 different combinations of connections to test?

Anyway, I went through the Diode Testing Procedure and got an indication of one bad diode. I just feel like the problem really is the R/R and yes I do need a new one. If you are trying to diagnose an electrical problem, I highly recommend the Electrex USA Diode Testing Procedure.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-18-2007, 01:59 PM Thread Starter
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Update:

The Rick's Motorsport Electrics R/R arrived yesterday. I mounted it, started the engine, and measured voltage at the battery terminals. Readings were never above 14.8v. At idle, the readings were in the high 13v range. I consider this problem solved. I am currently happy that I chose a Rick's R/R rather than the OEM unit. I hope I stay that way....
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-18-2007, 03:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TechMech View Post
Update:

The Rick's Motorsport Electrics R/R arrived yesterday. I mounted it, started the engine, and measured voltage at the battery terminals. Readings were never above 14.8v. At idle, the readings were in the high 13v range. I consider this problem solved. I am currently happy that I chose a Rick's R/R rather than the OEM unit. I hope I stay that way....
I am a EE and have been involved in power supplies for over 20 years. I compared the OEM to the Rick's and there is no comparison. We gutted the OEM unit here in the lab and were very disapointed with the quality of workmanship and thermal design.

I had lengthy talk with Rick before buying their R/R and stator. He knows the vn750 charging system very well and I was confident his parts would work better than OEM version.

Jon

93VN750, under re-construction
vn750.com Member # 828

Rick's Stator and R/R
MF AGM Battery
Coastered
Degoated
Shaved & Jetted
Iridium's
MAC Tapered Staggered Pipes
Battery/Temp/Clock Gauge
Stainless Steel Brake Lines
Dunlop D-404's
23,XXX miles and holding pending gasket change (underway!!!)
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