Plug Wire Resistor is it really needed? - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-12-2014, 10:18 AM Thread Starter
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Plug Wire Resistor is it really needed?

I just want to take a moment and thank my professors here at "Vulcan University"....without this forum and your expertise I wouldn't have had the balsac to get down and dirty with my bike...Tnx to all!!!!

I read an older posting by the "Wolfman...Wolfie; where if I understood the post he recommended removing the resistor in the plug wire: During a check of the stock coils, one of the coils was dead on the secondary circuit. I removed the wire and checked the coil and it was right on spec; the wire however was another matter...I removed the resistor and it was dead..the wire was good.

Not sure if this is a weak area or not but might be worth keeping in mind if you're broken down on the side of the road with no spark in one cylinder. Credit to Wolfie...remove the brass screw in the wire socket with a small flat screwdriver...remove the spring and the resistor: Replace with screw stock cut to size; in an emergency on the side of the road you can wrap the resistor with tin foil:

Aside from Professor Wolf has anyone else removed the resistors and what was the result and why are they there in the first place...I'm inclined to think they should be removed...
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-12-2014, 10:33 AM
..have a vulcan good day!
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigshmeil View Post
I just want to take a moment and thank my professors here at "Vulcan University"....without this forum and your expertise I wouldn't have had the balsac to get down and dirty with my bike...Tnx to all!!!!

I read an older posting by the "Wolfman...Wolfie; where if I understood the post he recommended removing the resistor in the plug wire: During a check of the stock coils, one of the coils was dead on the secondary circuit. I removed the wire and checked the coil and it was right on spec; the wire however was another matter...I removed the resistor and it was dead..the wire was good.

Not sure if this is a weak area or not but might be worth keeping in mind if you're broken down on the side of the road with no spark in one cylinder. Credit to Wolfie...remove the brass screw in the wire socket with a small flat screwdriver...remove the spring and the resistor: Replace with screw stock cut to size; in an emergency on the side of the road you can wrap the resistor with tin foil:

Aside from Professor Wolf has anyone else removed the resistors and what was the result and why are they there in the first place...I'm inclined to think they should be removed...
Best I can simply explain.....Resistors create current (milli-amps) which help/assist your electrical system....engineered/designed/installed by the factory for operational effectiveness.
Yes, your bike will run w/o that resistor.



Yes,

'86 VN750 13,700 mi -Stock
-Purchased 2008 w/8800mi
Replaced ALL Cables . Kuryakyn LED Voltmeter
SilverStar Ultra 9003/HB2 H4 Headlamp, Jardine Fwd Controls,
Iridiums DPR7EIX-9 & Wires, Tuxedo Mod, Coil Mod, P/U Sensor Mod, Fork Seals,
Splines Lubed - 11/4/2012 - MF AGM Battery
Additional Flashing LED Brake Light on Trunk
Dampers went out @ 13+K !
After TOC MCCT's..... so amazingly quiet I discovered a rattling heat shield on my stock exhaust !
...have a vulcan good day!
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-12-2014, 10:45 AM
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the resistor:

why are they there in the first place...I'm inclined to think they should be removed...
The same reasons everything in the last 40 yrs has resistor spark plugs.

Every vehicle with electronic ignition (CDI, etc) should use some means to limit interference.

Resistor spark plugs were used OEM long before electronic ignitions. A resistor in the spark circuit acts like a low level, more durable capacitor. Stops 'bleed' voltage. Shortens and intensifies spark duration somewhat.

By all means, take them out. I am a racer and have used many sets of 'solid' wires. Never again.

Last edited by wmsonta; 05-12-2014 at 10:51 AM.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-12-2014, 10:52 AM
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I thought the resistors were there to prevent radio interference, don't think there are resistor spark plugs available for bikes like there are for autos, but I haven't been looking for them. I don't know that interference is such a problem anymore, maybe on the AM or CB bands.

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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-12-2014, 11:00 AM
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I thought the resistors were there to prevent radio interference, don't think there are resistor spark plugs available for bikes like there are for autos, but I haven't been looking for them. I don't know that interference is such a problem anymore, maybe on the AM or CB bands.
All the recommended spark plugs for the vn are resistor plugs. I have not seen a standard plug OEM for over 40 yrs.

Interference is a larger problem now, due to modern electronic ignition systems.

edit- I will post this again.
http://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/truth.htm

Last edited by wmsonta; 05-12-2014 at 11:06 AM.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-12-2014, 11:10 AM
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There could be an 'r' in the plug number, I don't have it memorized, but the plugs for my cars are all 'r'.

Maybe there's a need to shield computers, but as far as radios, I rarely hear interference, even on the race tracks. I do recall when FM became popular, AM still had plenty of intermittent zing from the old points ignitions.

2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-12-2014, 11:29 AM
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I rarely hear interference, even on the race tracks.
There are no solid wires on the race tracks. Not for a long time, that I know of. Even the serious blown methanol motors with their welder level, 10+ amp ignitions use EMI suppression.

edit- and for Pete's sake, twist and wrap your crank trigger sensor wires. Keep them well away from everything with intermittent/alternating current. Use tin foil. My God!

Last edited by wmsonta; 05-12-2014 at 11:40 AM.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-12-2014, 11:55 AM
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I wasn't seeing any R plugs at the track, maybe in stock classes where they just run what ya brung.

No EFI allowed, so no crank triggers. Maybe the stock 4cyl class has to allow EFI now just to get a decent car count, haven't looked lately.

Found some wires under my dash with foil shielding, airbag and security wiring, if I recall.

2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-12-2014, 12:15 PM
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Quote:
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I wasn't seeing any R plugs at the track, maybe in stock classes where they just run what ya brung.

No EFI allowed, so no crank triggers. Maybe the stock 4cyl class has to allow EFI now just to get a decent car count, haven't looked lately.

Found some wires under my dash with foil shielding, airbag and security wiring, if I recall.
To keep this discussion 'on track', we need to keep RFI and EMI separate. Vulcans do not have radios. They have CDI ignitions.

Any race car that uses electronic ignition should/will need EMI suppression. MSD, ICE, Mallory, J&S, etc.

You can follow the link in post #5 and learn more than you need to know.
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-12-2014, 12:56 PM
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Some Vulcans do have radios, some Vulcan riders have two-way radios, and how many vehicles around the Vulcan have radios, then how many buildings the Vulcan is passing by.

RFI, EMI, whatever. The resistors began as a way to reduce RFI.

Shielding may be built into those components, but I don't see people worrying about EMI under the hood otherwise, they definitely don't wrap tin foil in the engine bay.

2003-21k mi
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__________________________________________________ ____________
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