R/R relocation - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Electrical
Where does this wire go?
Includes Electrical mods, Lights, Stator,
Rectifier, Diagrams, etc

 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-08-2004, 09:40 PM Thread Starter
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R/R relocation

I plan to relocate my R/R this weekend. It will be mounted at the left rear foot peg area. Will the harness be long enough with the stock R/R? It seem that in photos that the R/R has the wiring coming out of it and plugs in the bike's harness, but on my bike the harness plugs into the R/R. Am I seeing things? I'm wondering if the harness will reach at the new location.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-09-2004, 12:31 PM Thread Starter
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Re: R/R relocation

I found the answer to my question on the Yahoo Group. Thanks. Have a good day.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-11-2004, 12:41 PM
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Re: R/R relocation

For edification for the members who don't dig through the pile of posts in the other group, the answer is yes. However on the later model vn750's it is a tight fit with the wiring and requires making a path for the wiring through the back wheel spalsh guard. There was some talk by Bulldog of making an extension harness but that has not happended.. One of the problems is finding the right wiring connectors for our bikes.

RB

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Originally Posted by Sgt Mike
I found the answer to my question on the Yahoo Group. Thanks. Have a good day.

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Alright Already, Lets Ride!!
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-17-2004, 04:53 PM
 
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Re: R/R relocation

Is the R/R the rectifier? If so - I'm curious about the various posting regarding relocation of this. Why relocate please?
If "R/R" is not rectifier, then what is it?

Thanks -
Jaime
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-17-2004, 08:58 PM
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Re: R/R relocation

Quote:
Originally Posted by sunnyorlando
Is the R/R the rectifier? If so - I'm curious about the various posting regarding relocation of this. Why relocate please?
If "R/R" is not rectifier, then what is it?

Thanks -
Jaime
The R/R is for Regulator/Rectifier. It rectifies the AC current from the stator to DC current, and regulates charging voltage. By design, these generate heat in and of themselves, but on our bikes, their location (under the battery box, above goat's belly) makes them vulnerable to exhaust heat and offers little airflow for cooling. Locating it externally will increase airflow over the part to cool it and takes it away from the exhaust heat.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-20-2004, 10:18 AM Thread Starter
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Re: R/R relocation

Quote:
Originally Posted by sunnyorlando
Is the R/R the rectifier? If so - I'm curious about the various posting regarding relocation of this. Why relocate please?
If "R/R" is not rectifier, then what is it?

Thanks -
Jaime
Hey Jaime
Check out this site for regulator/rectifier relocation, and a bunch of other very valuable info for the VN750. It's Starman's Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Page-Technical and Mods.

http://home1.gte.net/res0ak9f/bike2.htm
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-20-2004, 10:29 AM Thread Starter
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Re: R/R relocation

Here's a great explanation of what and how the rectifier/regulator works and why relocate it. A big thank you to Evan Breyn

On Dec 19, 2004, at 11:45 PM, Evan Breyn wrote:

> The stator puts out A.C. current. The rectifier/regulator turns it
> into 12-15 volts DC. On our bikes, the stationary Stator (Fig 1) is
> mounted to the crankcase cover and sits inside the flywheel Rotor. The
> Rotor has 2 magnets that (engine running) rotate around the Stator.
> These magnet produce a "North-South" pole flux (current) in the stator
> coils. This current is called "A.C." current since it fluctuates +/-
> voltage in a "Sine Wave". The stator is wired so that there are
> actually 3 circuits producing A.C. current. Each circuit A.C. wave is
> 1/3 out of phase with the previous winding.
>
> It is important to understand these things:
> The stator A.C. output voltage varies with engine RPM. The more
> RPM the more voltage. So, the stator output must be "Regulated" to
> provide 12-15 volts into the bike system. The raw A.C. output from
> each circuit is about 50volts ac at medium RPM.
>
> The A.C. output is convert to D.C. by "clipping" the bottom
> (negative) portion of the A.C. wave off. The A.C. current has been
> "rectified" so that only the positive portion remains.
>
> The "Regulated" and "Rectified" output is 12-14 volts positive DC
> and can be considered to be somewhat "dirty". Since the negative
> output is simply chopped off the AC, the positive DC output is more
> like a slightly fluctuating "sawtooth" wave. This is good enough for
> automotive purposes but would wreak havoc on delicate computer
> circuits.
>
> Lastly, understand that the AC current is provide between any
> combination of 2 of the 3 yellows wires coming out of the stator. The
> AC phase is "floating" above the bikes -12 frame ground. That means
> that NO yellow wire is connected to ground. You measure the AC output
> of the stator between yellow wires only.
>
> The Regulator-Rectifier rectifies the A.C. current by using 6 diodes
> (2 per phase). The more complex part of the RR is how it regulates the
> higher DC current down to provide a steady state 12-14v. There are
> several variations of the process but in simplest terms a circuit
> monitors the output voltage and "shunts" (partially diverts) the
> excess portion to ground. The RR has a lot of current constantly
> flowing through it (diodes, etc..). AND, the excess voltage is being
> divert directly to ground. So, the RR gets very hot in the process.
> The construction is totally about dissipating this heats. Notice the
> heat fins. Less noticeable is that the RR circuits inside are encased
> in Epoxy and essentially glued into the heat sink metal body. This is
> why we like to relocate our RR's to a place where fresh moving air can
> pass over them.
>
> Hope this helps a little on the understanding of the electrical system
> of our motorcycle.
>
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-14-2005, 11:05 AM
 
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Exclamation Re: R/R relocation

FYI...I relocated my rectifier as per the posted instructions on the Yahoo site. I found a galvanized framing nailer at Lowe's that I cut down to the specified size based on the measurements (approx. 2" x 5"). I realized that since I am relocating my EXISTING rect. the holes don't match up to the diagram. I believe the instructions posted are for the Electrex R/R. Please verify the mounting and hole locations BEFORE you start cutting. I used a stiff piece of cardboard as a template.
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